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Boiler on the blink, help needed :)
#1
I have a vokera linea 24 but it's been losing pressure on a daily basis. Top it up at night to the 1.5 bar recommended pressure but by the morning it's at zero Sad

I have checked boiler forums and the like and they go on about the prv and a vessel but they're not very clear on how to check these (or maybe I'm reading them wrong)
I can't really afford to call out a plumber at the moment but as I read into this it doesn't seem that hard to do.

Are there any guys on here that can give me any idea what to do in layman's terms to resolve my issues.

Thanks in advance,
Colin
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#2
I,m not a heating engineer , but a leak would also cause the pressure to drop , Pm Slim Willy , he is the man .
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#3
(29-01-16, 02:48 PM)esetest link Wrote: I,m not a heating engineer , but a leak would also cause the pressure to drop , Pm Slim Willy , he is the man .
Meant to say earlier that I've checked all radiators and pipes for leaks and there is no sign of any water or air coming out.

Cheers, I'll pm slimwilly Smile
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#4
have you checked outside where the PRV pipe vents?
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#5
I am not a heating engineer but I had similiar problems with a Baxi a few years ago, pressure would drop over a few weeks. To solve the problem I had a new pressure vessel fitted, I would not have done the job myself as the engineer had to remove quite a few parts to get at it.
If it isn`t that it might be a leak as others have said, finding the leak is the fun part.
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#6
When our pressure vessel blew every time you tried to fill the system, water pissed out the bottom of the boiler and the pipe outside and it wouldn't pressurise at all.
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#7
To check if expansion vessel needs re-pressurising top boiler up to just over one bar when the system is cold. Put the heating on and watch the pressure gauge..if the pressure rises over 3bar then the vessel is flat. Pressure relief valves start letting water out of the system at 3 bar, so when the system cools down again water has leaked out of the system so the pressure goes down to zero. The pressure relief pipe should goes to outside so you don't notice any leaks. On your boiler the pressure relief pipe is the one to the left hand side closest to the front of the boiler see if you can find where that goes to and if it has been dripping. Expansion vessels can usually be pumped back up but prv may need replacing.
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#8
(29-01-16, 09:19 PM)evesdad link Wrote: To check if expansion vessel needs re-pressurising top boiler up to just over one bar when the system is cold. Put the heating on and watch the pressure gauge..if the pressure rises over 3bar then the vessel is flat. Pressure relief valves start letting water out of the system at 3 bar, so when the system cools down again water has leaked out of the system so the pressure goes down to zero. The pressure relief pipe should goes to outside so you don't notice any leaks. On your boiler the pressure relief pipe is the one to the left hand side closest to the front of the boiler see if you can find where that goes to and if it has been dripping. Expansion vessels can usually be pumped back up but prv may need replacing.

also if you can get to the expansion vessel  valve undo cap when cold, press valve in to release air and if water comes out its knackered.  I learned that when mine went and as above my system was running passed 3bar which alerted me to the problem
Women have chocolate men have bikes.....
including ones who like chocolate....Wink
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#9
On ours we had problems with the pressure. The pressure vessel had a normal car tyre valve  so I replaced that and then pumped it up to about 1.5 bar. Seems ok now. The engineer who came out when it broke down with a different fault didn't comment anyway.
Malc

Old enough to know better.
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#10
(30-01-16, 12:59 AM)midden link Wrote: [quote author=evesdad link=topic=19258.msg222975#msg222975 date=1454098792]
To check if expansion vessel needs re-pressurising top boiler up to just over one bar when the system is cold. Put the heating on and watch the pressure gauge..if the pressure rises over 3bar then the vessel is flat. Pressure relief valves start letting water out of the system at 3 bar, so when the system cools down again water has leaked out of the system so the pressure goes down to zero. The pressure relief pipe should goes to outside so you don't notice any leaks. On your boiler the pressure relief pipe is the one to the left hand side closest to the front of the boiler see if you can find where that goes to and if it has been dripping. Expansion vessels can usually be pumped back up but prv may need replacing.

also if you can get to the expansion vessel  valve undo cap when cold, press valve in to release air and if water comes out its knackered.  I learned that when mine went and as above my system was running passed 3bar which alerted me to the problem
[/quote]


Doesn't always mean its knackered. If you can still pump the water out of the other side and pump the vessel up to about 0.8 bar you should be ok. You need to have an open end on the system somewhere to pump the water out of the vessel to pressurise it properly.
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#11
(30-01-16, 06:30 PM)evesdad link Wrote: [quote author=midden link=topic=19258.msg222999#msg222999 date=1454111951]
[quote author=evesdad link=topic=19258.msg222975#msg222975 date=1454098792]
To check if expansion vessel needs re-pressurising top boiler up to just over one bar when the system is cold. Put the heating on and watch the pressure gauge..if the pressure rises over 3bar then the vessel is flat. Pressure relief valves start letting water out of the system at 3 bar, so when the system cools down again water has leaked out of the system so the pressure goes down to zero. The pressure relief pipe should goes to outside so you don't notice any leaks. On your boiler the pressure relief pipe is the one to the left hand side closest to the front of the boiler see if you can find where that goes to and if it has been dripping. Expansion vessels can usually be pumped back up but prv may need replacing.

also if you can get to the expansion vessel  valve undo cap when cold, press valve in to release air and if water comes out its knackered.  I learned that when mine went and as above my system was running passed 3bar which alerted me to the problem
[/quote]


Doesn't always mean its knackered. If you can still pump the water out of the other side and pump the vessel up to about 0.8 bar you should be ok. You need to have an open end on the system somewhere to pump the water out of the vessel to pressurise it properly.
[/quote]

Done all of the above checks I think,

I've discovered....
Vessel needed air,
Pipe outside is leaking warmish water,
Still won't really pressure till I run the system,

So, going with above I reckon it's a new prv :eek

So 8ve got another couple of questions if you don't mind.....
Are these easy to replace?
Is it on the water side of the system, is there a stopcock or similar that I use or just drain the system,
Thanks again in advance.
Colin
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#12
its on the heating side    open the old one up to release system pressure  whip the old one out and stick the new one in a bit sharp and you won't have to drain the whole system.  forgot to say before you whip the old prv out make sure its open and pump the expansion vessel up to about 0.8 bar.
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#13
(01-02-16, 09:31 PM)evesdad link Wrote: its on the heating side    open the old one up to release system pressure  whip the old one out and stick the new one in a bit sharp and you won't have to drain the whole system.
Brill Smile
It's sounding easy to do but I'll have some towels/rags underneath when I do it.
So, some water should come out depending how quick I can replace it?

Read somewhere else that I could try screwing in the front screw and back again to see if that sorts it but I'm not to sure Sad
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#14
I've never had much luck trying to get them to re-seat.
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#15
(01-02-16, 09:50 PM)evesdad link Wrote: I've never had much luck trying to get them to re-seat.
If you've had no luck, I don't fancy my chances :lol
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#16
Scratching head.......

Been talking about *Pressure Release Valve* (PRV)
Manual I downloaded says *Automatic Air Release Valve* (AARV)
But picture in manual says CH Return Valve
(See pic attached)

Totally confused as to what to order now Sad


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Colin
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Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#17
Have a look for makers part number 1806  its on a different picture to the one you are looking at, one end of it fits on to the safety outlet pipe in your picture.  Sorry I can't copy the picture from my work laptop onto here. key number 27 in parts diagrams.
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#18
The AARV should be at the top of the heat exchanger, it might have a knurled knob that must be loose so that any air in the heat exchanger can vent, The PRV is the safety valve, so if the presure rises to 3 bar it vents to the outside , the other valves are service valves and can be closed so you don't have to drain the whole system, if you close them make sure they are open before pressurising the system (I dont know how or when you do the expansion vessle?) the filling loop is used to fill the system to 1 to2 bar.
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#19
Another pic (pic1)
I presume were talking about the one on the left?

Checked that number 27 (pic2) it's called a HEATING COCK (pic3) on the manual!
This is screwing me up :eek

I really do appreciate your time and effort in helping me but I'm just getting really confused and scared of buying the wrong part Sad


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Colin
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Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#20
Thanks evesdad, thanks your help.
Should I be replacing pic1?
To stop it dripping water out the pipe to the outside?
I'm guessing I just need to drain the air in the vessel at the valve on top, replace this part (pic2) and pump up air in vessel again?
Therfore no water being lost via the boiler when I do this?


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Colin
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