Can't understand why you would need to ultrasonically clean a set of carbs that have been in constant use, I'd only think about that level of cleaning if the bike had stood with fuel in the float bowls for at least 3 months and the fuel has evaporated and left residue in all the internal drillings and jets.
Like everyone else has said the outsides would be spotless, not as clean as the Mikunis in Frecks post as they look as if they've been vapour blasted as well.
Looking at some of your close up photos there doesn't seem to be any evidence that the clamps on the carbs have been touched as normally you'd expect some evidence, however careful you've been, in the phillips slots.
Dependant on the bikes age I would have expected wear on parts, slides, needles, needle jets etc rather than a build up of crud in the carbs, looks like he cleaned the outer two carbs with Carb cleaner and a toothbrush.
Deffo take him to task on what he did for his money. You sound like you have enough knowledge to do a more than basic check and re-set of the engine to standard (Air Filter, TPS, Air Screws etc) yourself, at least you would know it has been done and have a base line to work from.
(07-07-15, 04:04 PM)Paul link Wrote: To SilverlegacyDo you have a standard exhaust system?
Yes its a standard exhaust, although i did notice a few weeks back that there was a small hole on the underside of the down pipes (where they join together) but fixed that with some GunGum, also the exhaust does blow a little through the gap where the pipe goes into the stainless can.
(07-07-15, 04:18 PM)Red Ceri link Wrote: Can't understand why you would need to ultrasonically clean a set of carbs that have been in constant use, I'd only think about that level of cleaning if the bike had stood with fuel in the float bowls for at least 3 months and the fuel has evaporated and left residue in all the internal drillings and jets.
Like everyone else has said the outsides would be spotless, not as clean as the Mikunis in Frecks post as they look as if they've been vapour blasted as well.
Looking at some of your close up photos there doesn't seem to be any evidence that the clamps on the carbs have been touched as normally you'd expect some evidence, however careful you've been, in the phillips slots.
Dependant on the bikes age I would have expected wear on parts, slides, needles, needle jets etc rather than a build up of crud in the carbs, looks like he cleaned the outer two carbs with Carb cleaner and a toothbrush.
Deffo take him to task on what he did for his money. You sound like you have enough knowledge to do a more than basic check and re-set of the engine to standard (Air Filter, TPS, Air Screws etc) yourself, at least you would know it has been done and have a base line to work from.
I have owned the bike for just over a year now as wasnt too sure when the carbs had last been cleaned and only decided to get the serviced after it had been running rough for some time.
The garage guy said he would strip em and clean them all up and check all the internal parts, but as everyone says, I am starting to doubt whether he had them off the bike at all?
The outside ones may be cleaner facing the exterior of the bike as i wash it most weeks so might just be that, but there is loads of crap on the middle two.
I have been looking through the haynes manual and might try removing them myself, i think i was just worried about getting everything back in the right order and not screwing up my bike.
Most of the basic stuff i can check myself and maybe i just need to take my time.
I think the standard exhaust doesn't have the link pipe welded to the front of the can but uses some kind of packing to make the joint slightly flexible. Some do blow slightly out the gap at the front of the can but not normally enough to be a problem at MOT time.
(08-07-15, 12:21 PM)Jules-C link Wrote: I think the standard exhaust doesn't have the link pipe welded to the front of the can but uses some kind of packing to make the joint slightly flexible. Some do blow slightly out the gap at the front of the can but not normally enough to be a problem at MOT time.
I did just a bit of gun gum in there too, to try and seal around it but it became brittle as gap pretty small.
The MOT guy never said anything, so either didnt notice or its just not a problem.
I have seen a picture someone put on here a little while ago where they cut there old exhaust up to show the internal workings, so think it just degrades over time and causes a slight leak through that gap.
They all run a bit shit at 5-7k revs and vibrate a bit - its something to do with being jetted to meet emissions controls from factory that are tested at those revs. Only way to get rid of it would be to get the carbs properly set up (maybe rejetted/reshimmed if needed).
(08-07-15, 06:03 PM)JoeRock link Wrote: They all run a bit shit at 5-7k revs and vibrate a bit - its something to do with being jetted to meet emissions controls from factory that are tested at those revs. Only way to get rid of it would be to get the carbs properly set up (maybe rejetted/reshimmed if needed).
Will see what the garage guy says and take it from there i guess?
Although i did go to look at a FZ6S 04 last night which was in pretty poor condition and made my look a lot nicer so starting to wonder if i should just invest a bit of money back in mine and get it sorted, plus as i went on my bike to view the other it gave me chance to open the bike up a bit which I dont normally get chance to do on my normal commute to work.
Theres a place by me who do the Dyno stuff and they are a proper setup not a one man band with no proper kit.
I think i 'm going to have a go at removing the carbs at the weekend when i have plenty of time and give the bike a good going over.
Least that way I will be able to tell how much has been done by the garage.
I was looking for the carb mixture screw settings on here and they seem to vary from 2 turns to 3 turns? any recommendations?
Well they're an adjustment point so they'll be slightly different on every bike. Having said that the manual says 2 turns out for the 98 model so stick to that as a starting point and you won't be far off. After you set it to that you can run the bike for a week or so and then check the plugs and see if they're looking good or if they're showing the cylinder as being rich or lean and make slight adjustments
(10-07-15, 10:08 AM)His Dudeness link Wrote: Well they're an adjustment point so they'll be slightly different on every bike. Having said that the manual says 2 turns out for the 98 model so stick to that as a starting point and you won't be far off. After you set it to that you can run the bike for a week or so and then check the plugs and see if they're looking good or if they're showing the cylinder as being rich or lean and make slight adjustments
Cheers for that, will keep me busy over the weekend/
Here's a few tips if you're having a go at it. Make sure you use good quality screw drivers that fit the screws and jets properly or you'll damage the heads of them. Leave the throttle cables attached to the carbs or definitely put them back on while the carbs are out of the bike getting them on with the carbs in place is a pain. Getting the carbs into and out of the intake boots is sometimes difficult, a bit of lube like wd40 helps. Don't bother splitting the carbs if it's the first time you've done it, it'll only cause you hassle.
The order it goes in is. Take out the battery. Loosen the screws that hold the air box to the carbs and loosen the bolts that hold the airbox to the frame. Then slide the airbox back and tighten the bolts again to hold the airbox out of the way. Then loosen the intake boot screws all the way. Put your finger on the back of the screw so you know it's out as far as it can go. They have to be all the way out or you'll struggle to get the carbs out. Then push up and down on the carbs until they pop out. Take the top cover of the carbs and take the diaphragm out. Then take the bowl off and take the float and jets out. Give it all a good spray with the carb cleaner and a wipe with a clean cloth. I normally use kitchen roll. Don't spray the diaphragm. You can check it for holes. You can let the jets soak in the carb cleaner if you want. Check that they're all clear. If you've got compressed air given them a blow. If you want you can take out the mixture screws. It's no harm taking note of how many turns out they currently are as someone may have already tuned them so if you know where they are now you can always put them back to that. Be careful if you're turning them back in because if they're already fully seated and you turn them in more you'll damage them. Give them a spray of carb cleaner and a wipe and set them where you want them. Then repeat that for all the other carbs. Put it back together. If you've got a carb balancer you could balance the carbs too. You should be good then.
Thanks for the great advice :-)
Certainly makes me feel happier about attempting it myself now.
Wish I would of sorted it myself now rather than paying the garage to do it.
Will give them a good cleaning over the weekend and then see how the bike runs.
Hopefully that will sort the issue.
Ok, so spoke to the garage this morning about the carbs and he assures me they were taken out and cleaned.
Although he did say that he used a different type of solution which doesnt clean the outside? (strange) but somehow cleans the inside??
I told him about the rough running and the poor idle and he has told me to take it back in on Friday for the day and he will re-clean them and see what he can do.
I'm not saying its going to fix the problem, I just want to get what i paid for and least it gives me a s good starting point to work from, hopefully he will give them a proper look around this time to check the internal parts for wear.
Oh the plus side, reading up on some of the info on the forum atleast gave me to confidence to attempt to remove my old "Ross M1 Immobilizer" which has been giving me trouble for a while and although it was a spiders web of wires, i took my time and got it sorted.
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