Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
TPS issues (cont)
#21
(04-03-15, 04:03 AM)slappy link Wrote: The loud grinding/ crunching noise is probably your chain. Clean it, inspect for tight spots, adjust it correctly and lube it. Also check your sprockets are in good condition.
Pretty much a brand new chain and sprocket set. Less than 500 miles on them...

Reply
#22
Does the needle alternate between 0rpm and 3000rpm when the TPS is unplugged?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Reply
#23
(04-03-15, 07:29 AM)darrsi link Wrote: [size=1.35em]Does the needle alternate between 0rpm and 3000rpm when the TPS is unplugged?[/size]
Reply
#24
(04-03-15, 07:29 AM)darrsi link Wrote: [size=1.35em]Does the needle alternate between 0rpm and 3000rpm when the TPS is unplugged?[/size]
Yup, all of them do this
Reply
#25
Hopefully this might help as Throttle Position Sensor seems to come up at regular intervals on here, so thought I would do a couple of measurements for reference...

First of all, this is how mine show up as ok on the tacho, pic taken this morning before I went to work
[smg id=2465 type=preview align=center caption="TPS Tacho 5k"]
When I first checked mine after doing my cam chain I thought this was just a fraction high so thought I would tweak it down a touch,
First lesson learnt - > This is ok and in the acceptable range, drop below the range and the needle drops straight to '0', be a fraction above the range and it jumps straight to '10'; so I should not have touched it  :rolleyes
Second lesson - > The adjustment is very sensitive and easy to move as you tighten the screws.

Anyway back to the main bit - >
The TPS is just a potentiometer so first check the track resistance, Haynes spec this as 5 KΩ +/- 1.5kΩ
I used some test clips to get onto the two outer contacts
[smg id=2466 type=preview align=center caption="TPS Track resistance"]

Then I checked the resistance from one end of the track to the 'wiper', this at idle position
[smg id=2467 type=preview align=center caption="TPS res Idle"]

Then at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) position
[smg id=2468 type=preview align=center caption="TPS res WOT"]

The actual figures may vary quite a bit, hell the tolerance on the track is +/- 30%.
But another important bit is that as you move the throttle from idle to WOT the reading should smoothly and consistently change, there should not be any drop-outs or blips, this is a little easier to see with an analogue meter (that is one with a needle)

And finally just to show the wires
[smg id=2469 type=preview align=center caption="TPS wires"]
Reply
#26
(04-03-15, 05:41 PM)jonest27 link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=16142.msg185667#msg185667 date=1425450588]
[size=1.35em]Does the needle alternate between 0rpm and 3000rpm when the TPS is unplugged?[/size]
Yup, all of them do this
[/quote]


Then surely that means the info is getting to your clock in the correct manner meaning the system is working but your TPS collection isn't.  :'(
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Reply
#27
(04-03-15, 07:26 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=jonest27 link=topic=16142.msg185765#msg185765 date=1425487276]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=16142.msg185667#msg185667 date=1425450588]
[size=1.35em]Does the needle alternate between 0rpm and 3000rpm when the TPS is unplugged?[/size]
Yup, all of them do this
[/quote]


Then surely that means the info is getting to your clock in the correct manner meaning the system is working but your TPS collection isn't.  :'(
[/quote]


I'm beginning to think this too.
But also I'm wondering if my actual throttle position is wrong somehow and that's what's giving the 10,000 reading. Maybe the TPS's are reporting what they are seeing. I'm just unsure how/what to adjust throttle-wise to see if that moves the needle.
Any ideas?
Reply
#28
Contact the breakers and say it's faulty.
Make sure you have the right one, they'll normally mark them.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Reply
#29
(04-03-15, 11:55 PM)darrsi link Wrote: Contact the breakers and say it's faulty.
Make sure you have the right one, they'll normally mark them.
Yea I could take it back there, that wouldn't be an issue, but it's the only one they had so won't get a replacement
Reply
#30
know anyone nearby with a 100% working one?
Reply
#31
(05-03-15, 04:09 AM)Paulfzs link Wrote: know anyone nearby with a 100% working one?
I only know 1 other person with a Fazer  but havent seen him for a while since he moved jobs. I emailed him about it but havent heard back yet.

Reply
#32
where abouts are you?


try using the members map to see if anyone's nearby




http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=profile;u=7685


^^^ richard is breaking a fazer, maybe itll be worth asking if he can test the tps on the one hes breaking see if he can get 5000 and ask kindly if he will post it out to you if you pay postage to test it then either post it back or buy it if it works for you?


if it works > you have 3 broken tps's
if it doesnt work> other bike issue.
Reply
#33
(05-03-15, 12:06 PM)Paulfzs link Wrote: where abouts are you?


try using the members map to see if anyone's nearby




http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=profile;u=7685


^^^ richard is breaking a fazer, maybe itll be worth asking if he can test the tps on the one hes breaking see if he can get 5000 and ask kindly if he will post it out to you if you pay postage to test it then either post it back or buy it if it works for you?


if it works > you have 3 broken tps's
if it doesnt work> other bike issue.


Cheers for this, I didnt even think of checking the member map.
There are 2 guys quite close to me. I'll message them and see if they can help.
I'll also send a message to the guy you mentioned and see if he can help.
Reply
#34
My money's still on 3 dodgy TPS units.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Reply
#35
There is a very simple test to check if the TPS is outside the spec if you cannot get it to move from 10000.

Set the TPS to test mode (disconnecting reconnecting with ignition on).
Remove the TPS screws/bolts completely

Rotate the TPS until it can be set to 5000

Check the location of the screw/bolt holes in relation to the screw/bolt holes on the carburettor.

If holes are way off way off or you cannot set it to 5000 change the TPS. :thumbup

Reply
#36
(05-03-15, 09:27 PM)darrsi link Wrote: My money's still on 3 dodgy TPS units.


Methinks you're right,
Just spoke to a mate of mine (the guy I mentioned earlier) his is at 10,000 too, he's gonna try and adjust it at the weekend, if he is able then I'll try it on mine and we'll know for sure.
Reply
#37
(05-03-15, 09:48 PM)unfazed link Wrote: There is a very simple test to check if the TPS is outside the spec if you cannot get it to move from 10000.

Set the TPS to test mode (disconnecting reconnecting with ignition on).
Remove the TPS screws/bolts completely

Rotate the TPS until it can be set to 5000

Check the location of the screw/bolt holes in relation to the screw/bolt holes on the carburettor.

If holes are way off way off or you cannot set it to 5000 change the TPS. :thumbup


Hiya,
I've tried this. I can't get it to move at all, whether it's got the screws in it or not, no matter how much I rotate it, it still stays at 10,000
Reply
#38
Darrsi may be right, 3x duff, and agree with unfazed, would have thought at least one of the three might be able to get the '0' reading even if they are badly worn at the sweat spot

but also I remember what you said -
(03-03-15, 07:16 PM)jonest27 link Wrote: I thought that if they are at 10, 000 and I moved it passed the "sweet spot" then it would jump to 0.
I have tried moving them really slow,( I've even put them on backwards and then turning them) but it just sit's at 10,000

and you said all three were the same, have you checked the connections to the ignitor module yet ?

If you have a meter, or could get one, really would be interested to know what resistance measurements you got off the three sensors like I put in reply #24, or just turning the centre without them on the bike.
Reply
#39
(05-03-15, 10:13 PM)Ebme Geek link Wrote: Darrsi may be right, 3x duff, and agree with unfazed, would have thought at least one of the three might be able to get the '0' reading even if they are badly worn at the sweat spot

but also I remember what you said -
[quote author=jonest27 link=topic=16142.msg185591#msg185591 date=1425406576]

I thought that if they are at 10, 000 and I moved it passed the "sweet spot" then it would jump to 0.
I have tried moving them really slow,( I've even put them on backwards and then turning them) but it just sit's at 10,000

and you said all three were the same, have you checked the connections to the ignitor module yet ?

If you have a meter, or could get one, really would be interested to know what resistance measurements you got off the three sensors like I put in reply #24, or just turning the centre without them on the bike.
[/quote]


Havent been able to check resistances etc as I'm in work for the next 4 days (night shifts 12hr shifts ) I'm actually in work at the moment lol.
When I get a chance though I will definitely do this and post the results.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: