Weird revving issue and bike wont idle

[His Dudeness]

Well done getting them out. I've found if you put them in at an angle so that the top edge of the carbs goes in first then push down on the back of the carbs they pop in and a bit of lube goes a long way as unfazed said. If they were gunked up cleaning them should solve the problem

[jonest27]

Me again
Thanks for all the advice!
Another update,
So, had the carbs back and put them on (3.5 hours later!)
Now It wont fire up it's turning over like it should but it wont fire up.
Tried adjusting the idle to see if that made a difference but nothing.
Is there anything simple I could have missed whilst putting it back together?
Also apart from the drain screws (mine seem to have seized and I'm at risk of chewing them up) is there any other way to check if there is fuel getting to the carbs without taking them off?
Cheers again

[Ebme Geek]

Did you hear the fuel pump clicking like mad when you turned the ignition on ?
It will only run for a few seconds and then stop, it takes a couple of goes to load the carbs up, if you turn the ignition on and off a couple of times, you should hear it slow down and then stop as it gets some back pressure.

If you did not hear it, is it getting power ?
If it keeps going after several on, off's maybe trapped hose, or the obvious, everyone always remembers - yah, :rolleyes , did you turn the valve back on ?

[jonest27]

I'm a numpty!
Just went back out there. Wasn't going to let it beat me. i thought I've spent all afternoon putting it back together  in the pissing down rain, there is no way this bastard is going to win.
Went out there, fuel coming from tank, check, fuel going to filter, check, fuel going to and from pump, che.. wait, whats this little black connector??
Yes, I forgot to connect the fuel pump back up!!
Turned over the ignition, IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!! Fired up in seconds!
Awesome, now just gotta ride it at some point to see if the carb clean worked!
Will post what I hope to be a final update soon.
Watch this space!

[jonest27]

Did you hear the fuel pump clicking like mad when you turned the ignition on ?
It will only run for a few seconds and then stop, it takes a couple of goes to load the carbs up, if you turn the ignition on and off a couple of times, you should hear it slow down and then stop as it gets some back pressure.

If you did not hear it, is it getting power ?
If it keeps going after several on, off's maybe trapped hose, or the obvious, everyone always remembers - yah, :rolleyes , did you turn the valve back on ?

Cheers mate!
Turns out I forgot to reconnect the bloody fuel pump!

[Ebme Geek]

Happy days  :lol

fingers crossed, I take it your idle is ok now

You said when you took the carbs off, they were prety rank, was there any sign of water in them, if so check your tank, otherwise the problem will re-create itself 

[jonest27]

Happy days  :lol

fingers crossed, I take it your idle is ok now

You said when you took the carbs off, they were prety rank, was there any sign of water in them, if so check your tank, otherwise the problem will re-create itself 

Didnt really give it time to warm up to check the idle properly as it was still on choke.
Dont think there was any water in there and there was no rust just loads of gunky crap. but I wouldnt know how else to check for water also when taking them off and putting them back on it was pissing down, so I guess if I was testing for water that would have given me a false postive.
any way you know of to check the tank?

[unfazed]

We will make a good Foccer out of you yet. :lol

Good to hear it is running.

Keep us posted

[Buzz]

so I guess if I was testing for water that would have given me a false postive.
any way you know of to check the tank?

Darrsi swears by adding 200/300ml of isopropyl alcohol to every other fill-up to absorb any water...will also prevent any carb icing in the winter.

[darrsi]

[quote author=jonest27 link=topic=15649.msg179951#msg179951 date=1421096775]
so I guess if I was testing for water that would have given me a false postive.
any way you know of to check the tank?

Darrsi swears by adding 200/300ml of isopropyl alcohol to every other fill-up to absorb any water...will also prevent any carb icing in the winter.
[/quote]

It's true.......I do swear.  :thumbup

[jonest27]

So,
All seems good so far!
Took the bike to work today (even though I for got to put the airbox coversand side panels back on!)
Then on my lunch I went for a ride for half hour or so when it's warmed up it idles great now when its cold it need lots of choke though, is this normal?
Most bikes i've had I can turn the choke about 3/4 of the way off after a mile or so, but with this I still need it 3/4 of the way on until it's been run for 10 miles or so. Maybe just needs some fine tuning?
Not sure what it should be like as I've never had it running properly.
What's your guys experience with this?


Thanks

[darrsi]

On very cold days i'll put the choke on first, then start the bike, and leave it running for about 2-3 minutes, then switch the choke off.
I can't imagine riding it with the choke on, it must run like a pig?

[jonest27]

On very cold days i'll put the choke on first, then start the bike, and leave it running for about 2-3 minutes, then switch the choke off.
I can't imagine riding it with the choke on, it must run like a pig?

Before I cleaned the carbs it would only idle with the choke on so I had to.
It runs ok with it on but when you turn it nearly all the way off it gets jerky, like you going over bumps in the road!
Leaving it running in the mornings is not really an option for me, I've recently had noise complaints from my new neighbours for starting the bike at 06:30 every morning lol so I have to start it and drive off this is why I been leaving the choke on.

[unfazed]

In exceptionally cold conditions it could need the choke to idle for up to 5 miles, depending on your driving conditions, in town or out of town, it will obviously take longer to heat up in start stop traffic or if like me your first 3 miles is mostly down hill.

Some of the later Foxeye models had a blockages caused by Swarf stuck in the heater circuit which was documented by Yamaha. It was usually the left hand carburettor and just required removal of the pipe and some poking with a piece of stiff wire to dislodge it and blow it through from the right hand side.

Did you check the pilot jets before you refitted the carburettors?

[Jules-C]

Mine only needs the choke to start on cold mornings and by the time I've put my helmet on the choke can go off and it'll idle happily.  If I leave even half choke on it'll cut out the first time I have to stop at lights or junction after about half a mile.

[Fazerider]

It suggests the bike's running a bit lean: like Jules-C, mine only needs choke if the temperature is below 5˚C and even then it can be eased off after a minute. Perhaps the cleaning didn't shift all the muck out of the slow jets… were they blown through and checked or did you just rely on the ultrasound?
If you're sure they are clear then it might be worth adjusting the mixture screws out a bit, mine are just 1.8 turns out, but I recall reading that others on here found as much as 4 turns was needed on theirs.

any way you know of to check the tank?

I've not tried one as I've a Mac which they apparently don't talk to, but USB endoscopes are ridiculously cheap. This one looks as if it should be small enough to make the tight bend needed to get completely into the tank for inspection purposes.

[jonest27]

I've not tried one as I've a Mac which they apparently don't talk to, but USB endoscopes are ridiculously cheap. This one looks as if it should be small enough to make the tight bend needed to get completely into the tank for inspection purposes.

That endoscope idea is bloody genius!
I'll definitely try that at some point

[jonest27]

Some of the later Foxeye models had a blockages caused by Swarf stuck in the heater circuit which was documented by Yamaha. It was usually the left hand carburettor and just required removal of the pipe and some poking with a piece of stiff wire to dislodge it and blow it through from the right hand side.

Did you check the pilot jets before you refitted the carburettors?

Thanks for this
The left had carb was the one with the blocked pilot jet the mechanic who cleaned them unblocked it for me and checked the others. He said the others were not too bad but cleaned them up too.
Mine is a 2002 Foxeye
Any chance you've got a pic of the pipe? or do you mean the left hand coolant hose that runs to the carb?

[jonest27]

It suggests the bike's running a bit lean: like Jules-C, mine only needs choke if the temperature is below 5˚C and even then it can be eased off after a minute. Perhaps the cleaning didn't shift all the muck out of the slow jets… were they blown through and checked or did you just rely on the ultrasound?
If you're sure they are clear then it might be worth adjusting the mixture screws out a bit, mine are just 1.8 turns out, but I recall reading that others on here found as much as 4 turns was needed on theirs.

Also, the mechanic set mine to 2 turns out so I may adjust them a bit too.
One weird thing I noticed today though, if I adjust my idle screw the idle goes up and I can set it to wherever, but the next time I jump on the bike (even a few hours later) it's like it's gone back again.
The mechanic did say though that it might take running a couple of tanks of clean petrol through for things to settle down, so maybe just a waiting game?

[unfazed]

See attached, the few I have come across was always this carb remove the two rubber pipes and poke the stiff wire through from both sides.

Blow it through, when I did my own originally it was difficult to blow through, once cleared it blew cleanly and the icing issues disappeared.

When finished blow it through right to left and it should be ok. If not repeat the process for each carb.

Pilot Screws

The 2002 and 2003 foxeye carbs have different shape pilot screws and are set at 2.5 turns out, all the boxeye 600 are all 2 turns out.

The Foxeye will not tick over cleanly when hot at 2 turns out.

4 turns out on the pilot screws usually refer to the 1000 Fazers which have been Ivanised.