(15-06-14, 02:19 PM)Dave48 link Wrote: [quote author=Camshaft link=topic=13598.msg153803#msg153803 date=1402812545]
When entering a roundabout or sharp corner I use rear brake along with a touch of throttle so when accelerating out the chain slack is taken up, then release brake and add more throttle for a smooth ride out. Who taught you that!
Or are you saying your chain is too slack?
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Chain is in spec, I mean the snatch from a closed throttle to just a little, I find this method useful particularly on a wet roundabout.
where does the muffler go?
(15-06-14, 12:03 AM)dazza link Wrote: I personally use my rear brake more than my front, prevents my front from diving at lights and junctions and the front forks being compressed when hitting a fast bend. It's all about personal preference and how you chose to ride. There is no right and wrong and all your self righteous comments are seriously flawed. :rollin
Dazza, when you are sat on your bike, are the handle bars infront of you or behind you? :lol
An ageing test pilot for home grown widgets that may fail at anytime.
Here are some excercises that someone wiser then me was kind enough to share. I still do them but probably not often enough.
The aim is to be smooth and deliberate.
Go find a carpark with a decent surface, pick a marker and practise passing it at - exactly - 25mph. Do this two or three times so you know how it feels, it is not as easy as you might think. When you are comfortable that you have the speed under control, you are ready to begin.
As you pass the marker, pull the clutch and hit the back brake. Try not to lock up, but still stop as quickly as you can. Two or three attempts and you will have the lockups under control. Note where you finish up (drop a coin or bottle top on the ground) and try to stop the bike a bit sooner. You will quickly find that releasing your brake stops you faster then letting it lock up.
Do the same excercise but don't pull the clutch this time. Deliberatly let the bike stall a couple of times until you know exactly how it feels, then try using the clutch at the last possible moment to prevent the stall. Note where you can stop consistently.
Same speed, same marker, pull the clutch and apply pressure to the front brake slowly.
Repeat, pulling the front brake harder and harder to shorten the braking distance until you feel the front lock up. Don't worry, you will know when this happens because it scary and very fucking distracting. So do it again and again until it is scary but not so distracting that you can't do something about it like ease the brake enough to release the lock. Try to keep the front on the edge of locking up all the way to a stop.
Now try again without pulling the clutch. Things will be happening quickly now so when you get a chance, double check you are still passing the marker at - exactly - 25mph. Try it in a higher gear and a lower one to feel the difference it makes.
Now try again using the back brake as well (this is the excercise I find hardest). Not locking the rear will take a few tries as if you are loading up the front leaving very little weight on the back wheel to stop it locking. Try this a few times and you will probably find your self pulling front and rear together, but the rear frimly and front softly, easing up on the rear to avoid locking while firming up the front as the weight transfer gives it more grip.
Take a breather before trying it all again from 30mph.
(14-06-14, 08:54 PM)noggythenog link Wrote: if anything the back brake should, if used at speed be applied BEFORE the front......just a dab really...enough to load more weight to the front so that the front can get more stopping power.
Errr, you won't load the front by applying the rear brake...
(25-06-14, 08:29 PM)bigfootpete link Wrote: [quote author=noggythenog link=topic=13598.msg153721#msg153721 date=1402775665]
if anything the back brake should, if used at speed be applied BEFORE the front......just a dab really...enough to load more weight to the front so that the front can get more stopping power.
Errr, you won't load the front by applying the rear brake...
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Yes you will...the weight transfers forward when you apply the back brake and that makes the front end dig in more coz the more weight on the front the better. 
Easiest way to go fast........don't buy a blue bike
I use mine at the end of half mile, 70mph wheelie.......yeah right!
This has got to be up with the most idiotic ideas ever posted on focu. Only a loop fruit would want to reduce braking efficiency. Learn to ride to the conditions, have a full understanding & knowledge of the the limits of the controls available to you & ride accordingly. If you're regularly locking up alter your technique because it's crap.
Noggy, if bfp is correct why does my front wheel come down when I dab the rear brake doing a wheelie 
25-06-14, 09:51 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-06-14, 09:53 PM by noggythenog.)
Ha ha ha ha ha :lol :lol :lol
Fair play chaps...i dont take anything too seriously & it is a treat to be quoted from one of my earlier pissed up foc u moments....how i managed to actually type that in the first place ill never know....however............
Some of the limited shit i know has come from trial & error...so it is like..baby talk i suppose without any technical jargon or cool bike speak...i prefer this type of talk.
But every so often i do get caught up in some article that i seen somewhere & think yeh that sounds like real sense that does......one such article was before i even passed my bike test...a part of it was about braking...always stuck in my head.
http://www.lazymotorbike.eu/tips/braking/
For the record ive tried the dab of the back brake before the front and it does make you stop faster.......do i do it regularly.....no i don't ever do it when i need to...coz im a twat & too focused on panic braking with the front only.....still here for now though....but that isnt the point is it....i also cant focus on back brake mid corner but id love to some day master these techniques....just because i cant does not make them wrong.
Easiest way to go fast........don't buy a blue bike
@DekF
So you missed statement I made where in my B12 dosen't lock up the rear? and now that I think about neither did my ZZR1100. The rear brake on the fazer 600/1000 has always been overkill, plain and simple. I have been making a concious effort to reduce the amount of rear brake I use, but slagging of my or someone else's riding skill is pointless. There is no way to gauge how long it will take for said 'concious effort' to translate into emergency situations, if at all.
In the meantime I still need to get around to moving the lever, checking the brake disc for true and changing the rear pads.
If you have a center stand this will help make it easier
An ageing test pilot for home grown widgets that may fail at anytime.
(26-06-14, 07:13 AM)slimwilly link Wrote: If you have a center stand this will help make it easier FZS1000's come with a CS as standard.
(25-06-14, 10:42 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: @DekF
So you missed statement I made where in my B12 dosen't lock up the rear? and now that I think about neither did my ZZR1100. The rear brake on the fazer 600/1000 has always been overkill, plain and simple. I have been making a concious effort to reduce the amount of rear brake I use, but slagging of my or someone else's riding skill is pointless. There is no way to gauge how long it will take for said 'concious effort' to translate into emergency situations, if at all.
In the meantime I still need to get around to moving the lever, checking the brake disc for true and changing the rear pads.
Your Fazer doesn't lock the rear, you do, and the fact that you think it is a brake or bike problem is why your technique is being criticized. Yes it is possible that you have a problem with your brake, and you have been told how to check it, but when you say something as silly as " There is no way to gauge how long it will take for said 'concious effort' to translate into emergency situations[/size][size=78%]", it makes it difficult to take you seriously. How long it will takes is directly related to how hard you practice. [/size]Deliberately[size=78%] practice doing it right until you don't have to think about it and you have a chance of doing it right when you don't have time to think about it. Don't practice and you have no chance. [/size]
[size=78%] [/size]
I can't believe you're considering replacing a decent braking system with 9 year old hoses, that could split on you (you wouldn't have whinge them, eh?) - before you've even adjusted the pedal to suit you. As Paul said above - difficult to take you seriously...
I hardly use my rear brake, maybe just to stabilise the bike before chucking into a corner, oh and on hill starts, but apart from that no....I do keep it in good order though....
Rexr.
Keep it simple......stupid..!!!
Ive read & re-read the posts on this thread & I cant understand what your problem with the back brake is!
Yamaha in their wisdom(they know a thing or two about bikes) decided to fit twin discs to the front wheel each with 4 piston opposed calipers and a single disc of a smaller diameter with two opposed piston caliper to the rear.
Its pretty obvious which brake does most of the work!...but there are times when you wouldnt want to use the front...just as there are occasions when its a good idea to use both together.
Unlike cars where one pedal controls the brakes on all 4 wheels-some using sophisticated pressure limiting devices to avoid lockup, bikes have two independent braking systems with very different physics involved.
So unless you buy a bike with ABS,TCS etc fitted as standard you just have to learn how to brake properly,safely& effectively.
Any talk of fitting old (possibly perished) hoses/inferior brake pads tells me you need to practice finesse with your technique. Theres absolutely nothing wrong with the standard set up which can only be improved by fitting braided hoses(rubber hoses have a limited life span) and it doesnt matter what you do/spend on your bike it wont make you a better rider. Only practice/training will do that.
The last thing anyone wants is some nagging doubt about the condition of the brake systems especially under emergency braking conditions. A locked wheel is a useless wheel so as said by others examine your technique and practice. Many novices fail to appreciate how hard you can actually brake UNDER FULL CONTROL!
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