I'm finally fed up of the rear locking under braking, because my Bandit1200 dosen't do it nearly as much. Now that is probably partly to do with B12 being heavier, but also it has a lower spec rear caliper and is running an original hose on the back compared to the FZS which came with braided when I bought it.
Could I just put a high mileage stock hose on the back to soften the braking action..? along with the worst pads I can find..? What pads do people recommend?
I fitted goodridge hoses to the rear brake on my gen 1 and my back brake kept locking up, so i removed it and put the original hose back on. The back brake works perfectly with the standard hose
If it's broken, it's not fixed.
some will say "get off that fekkin rear brake" use the front more,more,more
An ageing test pilot for home grown widgets that may fail at anytime.
(13-06-14, 01:03 PM)slimwilly link Wrote: some will say "get off that fekkin rear brake" use the front more,more,more :lol
This kind of ties in with my point regards the 600 and thou caliper...interesting how the hoses can change the performance.
Women have chocolate men have bikes.....
including ones who like chocolate.... 
I have a set of original hoses, you can have the rear for £10 including postage
1) Leave the clutch alone. Many people have a bad habit of pulling the clutch when they hit the brakes. This unloads the back wheel making it more likely to lock, prevents engine braking from having any effect, and prevents the engine from turning the back wheel preventing it from locking. If you do this, then stop doing it.
2) If your bandit has the mushy rear brakes I remember, then you are probably stomping on the pedal. Try and imagine your favourite testical is between your foot and the brake pedal and you wont have any more problems locking the rear.
3) It is possible your rear disc is out of true and 'catches'. With the bike on the center stand, spin the back wheel by hand and gently apply the rear brake by hand. If it always stops in the same place, you know where to look.
Just a thought. Is it possibly a situation where the brake pedal is set slightly too high. I have recently bought some new boots and they have changed my foot position slightly to my previous ones. When I first rode my bike in the new boots it felt like I was stamping on the brake so I dropped the pedal down a few millimetres and now it's fine again.
Rich
+1 for adjusting the position of the pedal, my rear brake has always been very harsh. I got used to it but whenever I needed to do an emergency stop I couldn't help locking the rear. Since I've fitted the Gillies rearsets and had a play with the position, it has softened it up nicely. Saying that it could be to do with the rearsets, in which case, disregard the first part of this reply. :lol
(13-06-14, 02:21 PM)PaulSmith link Wrote: 2) Try and imagine your favourite testical is between your foot and the brake pedal
ROFL. Brilliant.
Try riding two up! I'll bet the brake is that powerful because it was expected to cope with pillions.
Oh. Not helping. Ok….
Adjust the pedal position, use standard hoses and adapt. When I swap from my other bike (which has a back brake you have to use a lot of pressure to operate) the Fazer's back brake always catches me out, but half an hour and I've readjusted.
It is f. powerful though. I can see why you're fed up with it.
13-06-14, 10:04 PM
(This post was last modified: 14-06-14, 04:12 PM by b1k3rdude.)
(13-06-14, 02:21 PM)PaulSmith link Wrote: It is possible your rear disc is out of true and 'catches'. With the bike on the center stand, spin the back wheel by hand and gently apply the rear brake by hand. ah yes, it passed an MOT but it can't hurt to check.
(13-06-14, 02:26 PM)trpFZS1 link Wrote: Just a thought. Is it possibly a situation where the brake pedal is set slightly too high. Another excellent suggestion and which I knew about but forgot - will lower the pedel.
(13-06-14, 07:31 PM)AyJay link Wrote: It is f. powerful though. I can see why you're fed up with it. yer, came around a miny-roundabout to find a huge drain cover almost covering the whole lane, I was lent over at the time and didn't want to risk going over it. So I applied the front (and auto applied the rear 'muscle memory') and the problem was the rear broke free and started coming around from my right, which then made me go even wider. So had the rear 'not' locked up I would have been able to maintain my original trajectory and speed.
@Bluebear, how old are your the hoses (as in the more miles the better) as I didn't realise till I checked today that I have the stock hose on the back. The bike has only done 16k so I am guessing the hose I have isn't fucked enough yet.
Get a set of those Goldfren pads off ebay. You will never have to worry about locking the rear again. Dont put them in the front though you need one brake that works. :lol
I clean it and check it's working before the MOT every year.
That's the only time it gets used. Oh maybe sitting on a slope checking my map. Down the ramp onto ferries, that sort of thing.
(14-06-14, 08:29 AM)Stupid Luke link Wrote: Get a set of those Goldfren pads off ebay. Yeah I know about those pads, but ironically they aren't crap enough.
(14-06-14, 11:42 AM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: [quote author=Stupid Luke link=topic=13598.msg153604#msg153604 date=1402730951]Get a set of those Goldfren pads off ebay. Yeah I know about those pads, but ironically they aren't crap enough.
[/quote]
If goldfrens aren't crap enough, you must either be trying to ride in motocross boots, or have absoultely no finesse on the rear!
(14-06-14, 01:28 PM)JoeRock link Wrote: If goldfrens aren't crap enough. There have to be worse organic pad's out there than the GF's. But if nothing else is recommended then the GF's it is.
(13-06-14, 10:04 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: [quote author=PaulSmith link=topic=13598.msg153473#msg153473 date=1402665684]It is possible your rear disc is out of true and 'catches'. With the bike on the center stand, spin the back wheel by hand and gently apply the rear brake by hand. ah yes, it passed an MOT but it can't hurt to check.
(13-06-14, 02:26 PM)trpFZS1 link Wrote: Just a thought. Is it possibly a situation where the brake pedal is set slightly too high. Another excellent suggestion and which I knew about but forgot - will lower the pedel.
(13-06-14, 07:31 PM)AyJay link Wrote: It is f. powerful though. I can see why you're fed up with it. yer, came around a miny-roundabout to find a fucking huge drain cover almost covering the whole, I was lent over at the time and didnt want to risk going over it. So I applied the front (and auto applied the rear 'fucking muscle memory') and the problem was the rear broke free and started coming around from my fight, which then made me go even wider. So had the rear not locked up I would have been able to maintain my original trajectory and speed, instead of looking like a novice for those 1-2 seconds.
@Bluebear, how old are your the hoses (as in the more miles the better) as I didn't realise till I checked today that I have the stock hose on the back. The bike has only done 16k so I am guessing the hose I have isn't fucked enough yet.
[/quote]
They are about 9 year old and done about 26k,
Maybe take bike on a quiet carpark and learn how to to use the brakes properly...how anyone wants to decrease braking potential is behind me. Learn to use them properly as a pair.....
Braced for replys but I suspect all the experienced riders on the forum will agree?
What sirgalahad said. Learn to ride properly, if you're locking the rear, you're stomping too hard, it's that simple. Everything on a bike is about finesse, not fitting shit knackered hoses to cover your inability.
(14-06-14, 03:49 PM)richfzs link Wrote: Learn to ride properly, if you're locking the rear, you're stomping too hard, it's that simple. Everything on a bike is about finesse, not fitting shit knackered hoses to cover your inability. By that logic the same thing should be happening on the Bandit..? I will going with trpFZS/PaulSmith's suggestions.
|
![[Image: 125377.png]](http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-uk/125377.png)
