Engine Rebuild

[simonm]

Got out in to the garage again today to do some fettling. Got the cams out and the head off, looking to remove the block next then see if I can get in to the gearbox. One of the main reasons for removing the head is that during my maintenance on it, I removed one of the spark plugs apparently and due to the fire and being left outside, huge amounts of crap managed to fall inside the chamber. Now that the head is off I can give it a proper cleaning out

Here are some photos for those who are interested

Thanks for the pics. That engine looks in great shape. I guess they are designed to run at high temperatures

[Dead Eye]

Yeah, the insides don't appear to be too bad bar cylinder 1

This engine has only done 24k which isn't too high in the grand scheme of things and it was running very well before. My current 85k engine is quite rough, especially in the lower rev range despite the carbs being balanced recently.

I'll keep on taking photos as I go as it should help me remember how to put everything back as well haha

[Chris]

Looking good man!

Keep the photos coming, very interesting already. Good to see how it's all put together!

Chris

[dBfazer600]

I is surprised on how clean it looks inside. Keep the faith.

Daz  :thumbup

[simonm]

Next time you need to remember to take it apart in the kitchen on one of the best bed sheets  :evil :lol

[Dead Eye]

Haha, nah I just bought some cheap dust sheets to throw down on the garage floor to protect it against spillages etc - there's a cotton twill one on top and a then a cotton / polythene one underneath which is water proof so it won't soak through

After all, this is still a rented property and I need to get round to de-greasing the garden patio before our next inspection... woops...

Edit: Oh btw, are the images a half decent size for everyone? I scale them down before hand from the originals but if larger versions are better than that can certainly be done

[Exupnut]

Pic size good. My u have been a busy bunny. No more dodgy chargers now ya roof is on hehe


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[Chris]

Pics are a good size mate,  8)

Chris

[Stedman8]

good luck dead-eye and if theres anything we can do to help you know where we are 

[Dead Eye]

Much appreciated, thank you

So far so good, though ideally i could do with a proper copy of the Haynes manual instead of a digital one, but that's money I don't have right now ;p

The most interesting bit is going to be dealing with the valves potentially as quickly skimming the Haynes it said that special tools are required. Though at the moment I don't think I'll have to remove them at least

[Chris]

You could stick a wanted add up in the classifieds section asking for a haynes manual because of the massive job you're undertaking. Would be a good idea to have one. I know it isn't perfect but it's handy to have none the less.

Sure someone will have a copy but has sold on their bike and got something else and they might just charge you postage for it.

Chris

[Dead Eye]

Time for the asking for help part

The valves definitely need a good clean all round which requires removing them. This means acquiring a valve spring compressor kit but these go from £10 to £150 so why such a huge difference in price range? I usually like to buy quality, but at £80-£150 for the brands I know its pretty steep for a very specialised piece of kit that I'm not likely to use often...

Also, any advice on the actual procedure is always welcome

[red98]

Time for the asking for help part

The valves definitely need a good clean all round which requires removing them. This means acquiring a valve spring compressor kit but these go from £10 to £150 so why such a huge difference in price range? I usually like to buy quality, but at £80-£150 for the brands I know its pretty steep for a very specialised piece of kit that I'm not likely to use often...

Also, any advice on the actual procedure is always welcome

this is well within your capabilities DEADEYE and well worth doing,did my 600 last year,real old fashoned mechanics that you will enjoy doing,i have the tool for the job and will try to post pictures later when all the relatives have gone 

[Dead Eye]

Awesome, thanks red

Did you go for one of the expensive kits or would a cheap one do fine? Typically more expensive items are better quality, but this is subject to the type of tool. A cheap hammer is typically going to the same job just as well as an expensive one, but cheap sockets will chew up bolts compared to good fitting, expensive and better quality ones

[Exupnut]

Maybee if paul has the tooling he could bring it next week and lend.


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[red98]

ive had the tooling years and used it on allsorts mainly cars cant see it being expensive ,only two guests left today so should have time for pictures and things.............if it turns out expensive could possibly lend you mine on the april meet and return on the may meet.....will post later 

[Dead Eye]

I look forward to it

So what exactly determines the price difference between say these two;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-5-in-1-10P...1c26d75da8
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-5258-Val...256e9363f6

[limax2]

The second one is more specialised in that it enables the valve springs and seals to be changed without removing the head.
The first one is all you need.
Keep up the good work with photo's etc and good luck.

[red98]

I look forward to it

So what exactly determines the price difference between say these two;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-5-in-1-10P...1c26d75da8
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-5258-Val...256e9363f6

ah.........just been looking at those myself,the one in the red case is the one i would go for,different adaptors to suit a wide range of engines both ohv and ohc and a very good price
i have two compressors one for ohv the other ohc,i modified the ohc one to work on the fazer,it worked well  ,seen them on ebay or £11/12 +del but not as good buy as multi use one 


the laser tool is for removing the valve spring without removing the head for replacement of valve stem oil seal,it uses an adaptor which fits in place of the spark plug and is then attached to a compressed air supply which holds the valve shut with enough pressure to compress the spring ,remove the colets.spring retainer and spring and then the oil seal.
all very clever and a great time saver but i think for garage use only....it makes sense for the home mechanic to remove the valve at same time and re-grind them...ie ,a proper job 

[size=78%] i have some pictures of the tools but for some reason i cant post pictures on my ageing pc so will try on my sons laptop later on [/size]

[red98]

sorry LIMAX2 posted at same time ,bit long winded my reply  :\  but same answer