Sprocket nut...

[fazersharp]

I am not sure if I am seeing it at the right angle but that sprocket looks worn to me the U shapes look opened. Could just be the angle. And some oil would not go amiss either.
Its locktight 620 that was the recommended and it is green.

There is some good info here  https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=14924.msg169018#msg169018

Between us we thought the new recommended torque of 90nm was a little extreme and so used a torque inbetween the old 70nm and new which was 80nm. Along with the recomended threadlock. But I suppose any thread lock is better then none 
Here is the official yam info about it

[fazersharp]

Interesting, I'd never heard of Green Loctite.

According to this page Green Loctite isn't as strong and doesn't have as high a temeperature range as Red Loctite, but it's low viscosity, so it can be used on a part that's already secured without needing to undo it, like Plusgas it seeps into the thread.

Apparently it can also be removed with heat like Red Loctite, so you should be ok getting it off in the future.

I wouldn't give much creadance from a site that spams its info text with the 2 keywords so that google finds it.
try this
https://youtu.be/qcknFHcTIeo

[fazersharp]

When I did mine I brought the proper stuff which is expensive for a couple of drops needed.At the time I searched and searched and could not find anywhere that sold small amounts. Something like this size or even smaller would be perfect 

[darrsi]

Well folks, so got to have at it this evening.


Thankfully,my earlier stopgap fix (basically just blue loctite and tighten it as mup as it would go) held up okay.


Undid the lock washer,old 9mm nut wasn't loose but did break free with not a huge amount of pressure.


Same thing as a week ago - loose for a turn,then socket on to turn it off.


Cleaned the thread and popped the new lock washer and 12mm nut on.


Socket was needed to get it on right from the start.
Got it nipped up then on to the torque wrench.


Started low (50nm) working my way upto to the recommended 90nm.


All seems good thankfully!
Will check it on Sunday when I'm cleaning/adjusting the chain.


I did use thread locker (more precisely,studlock - bondloc b270)
I went into an auto factors and asked for green loctite (270 according to Google) " what,I've never heard of that" was the reply
So he sent me to an engineering/agri supply place nearby and when I asked for "green loctite, 270" that was what I got.


Hopefully it's not overkill strength wise or I'll be cursing myself when i go to change the sprocket...time will tell I suppose


Will try figure out how to post some pics up.

If it's all done now and okay then don't worry about it, but i was gonna say the same as Fazersharp and mention that this subject has been discussed many times over the years and because each bike could have a slightly different issue around the sprocket nut area a lot of us came to the conclusion it might be worth playing it safe and using 80Nm instead of the recommended 90Nm because it is a wider nut and was still tighter than the thinner nut at 70Nm, and going full on with it might have an unpredictable/unfavourable outcome.
But a lot of these conversations were many years ago now, and there haven't been too many since about it in comparison after most people upgraded their sprocket nut, so it obviously helped improve things since then.

[fazersharp]

Yes I should of added that now its done to not go undoing it and redoing to 80nm

[agricola]

When I did mine I brought the proper stuff which is expensive for a couple of drops needed.At the time I searched and searched and could not find anywhere that sold small amounts. Something like this size or even smaller would be perfect

Had to use a drop of Loctite tins morning on a trailer ramp mod, most of it well over 20 years old i'd say since its 10 years since I quit work. In with the others was a small bottle, so they must have made them at some point in the past. Does this stuff go off with time?

[Trebus]

I’ve also had stuff for years which seems no less effective with age. Like a fine wine!
Check out the Loctite application chart attached for general info of what to use.

[fazersharp]

[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=28022.msg333999#msg333999 date=1717844867]
When I did mine I brought the proper stuff which is expensive for a couple of drops needed.At the time I searched and searched and could not find anywhere that sold small amounts. Something like this size or even smaller would be perfect

Had to use a drop of Loctite tins morning on a trailer ramp mod, most of it well over 20 years old i'd say since its 10 years since I quit work. In with the others was a small bottle, so they must have made them at some point in the past. Does this stuff go off with time?
[/quote]i was wondering the same thing about it going off

[Grahamm]

Does this stuff go off with time?

You could always experiment, make up two nuts and bolts, one using the old one, the other the new, let them set, then see if one is easier to undo than the other.

[Brrm!Brrm!]

Thanks for the input everyone.


Chain and sprocket kit should be getting done on the next month most likely - will leave well enough alone till then.


Had meant to clean/adjust and lube chain today (don't think the chain is too slack but like to do it myself after buying a bike + it's due after the distance I've ridden anyway) but I had someone here to look at the Versys (thankfully sold to the first to view it,so no messing) and then the missus dropped by after so never got a chance.


Few bits on the way this week (blue led instrument bulbs,led flasher relay,smoked led indicators and few other bits) that'll keep me busy along with the Heed crash bars which came late last week (screen came too which is now on - badly needed both for wind protection and aesthetics).


Interestingly enough (dunno if I mentioned it) when going to view the bike it was advertised as 40k on the clock (can't remember when vehicles here in Ireland switched to kmh clocks) and as it had mph as the prominent numbers I thought it was miles on the odo.


On the way home realised the trip  matched the Kms Google stated for the journey.


Speedo face has 'redial uk' printed on it.
As the bike was originally sold on mainland UK,then into Northern Ireland and finally Ireland I assumed it was miles on the odo at first.


Has me thinking as to why the clock face was changed : continental original owner imported to UK or perhaps a parallel import from the the continent due to high demand in UK dealers back in the day?


I dunno,it's last two mots from the north pretty much tally up to were it's at now really but does have me thinking as to why the last owner had the clutch changed before 40k Kms?
Seems maybe a bit premature unless something was up with it.


No matter really as it runs and rides pretty spot on,long may it continue!

[unfazed]

I changed my Clutch plates, clutch springs and cam chain at 45000miles  (I bought mine new).

There is  really no hard and fast rule as to how long either should last.
It is common for imported bikes from European and Japanese model to have the clock face changed when imported to the UK. Easy enough to change it back to Km

When the FZS600 went off the market and the demand was still there and Dealers imported unsold new and second hand ones from Europe.
My 1000 is a Spanish import and my sons 600 is a dutch import

[fazersharp]

Few bits on the way this week (blue led instrument bulbs,led flasher relay,smoked led indicators and few other bits) that'll keep me busy along with the Heed crash bars which came late last week (screen came too which is now on - badly needed both for wind protection and aesthetics).

Going by past posts the blue instrument bulbs will be dimmer and also probably fail one by one.Please do not get smoke indicator covers - why do you want to make it harder for idiot car drivers to see you. The general consensus is that the screen on the FZS Fazer does little - I changed mine to a double bubble - made no difference, others have tried different screens only to find that it moves the wind blast from your chest to your head. Depending on how tall you are. 

[Brrm!Brrm!]

Will see how the blue bulbs go(hoping to pick up white dial faces - crowd called Venoxy do a nice one but not sure I wanna pay nearly €40 for 'em)


I hear you on the whole visibility thing.


Tbh, the led indicators they were less than €5 for the 4 of 'emon Temu - they have what appears to be the correct shape on the rubbers for the mounting holes(probably wrong size) if they don't fit they're not going on and obviously if they're not bright enough they'll be going into a drawer.

[mtread]

The general consensus is that the screen on the FZS Fazer does little - I changed mine to a double bubble - made no difference, others have tried different screens only to find that it moves the wind blast from your chest to your head. Depending on how tall you are. 

Might be the case on the boxeye, but on the foxeye I found the double bubble makes quite a difference. Moved it over my head rather than in my face

[fazersharp]

The general consensus is that the screen on the FZS Fazer does little - I changed mine to a double bubble - made no difference, others have tried different screens only to find that it moves the wind blast from your chest to your head. Depending on how tall you are. 

Might be the case on the boxeye, but on the foxeye I found the double bubble makes quite a difference. Moved it over my head rather than in my face

Yep I should of mentioned foxeye/boxeye

[darrsi]

[quote author=Brrm!Brrm! link=topic=28022.msg334026#msg334026 date=1717976153]

Few bits on the way this week (blue led instrument bulbs,led flasher relay,smoked led indicators and few other bits) that'll keep me busy along with the Heed crash bars which came late last week (screen came too which is now on - badly needed both for wind protection and aesthetics).

Going by past posts the blue instrument bulbs will be dimmer and also probably fail one by one.Please do not get smoke indicator covers - why do you want to make it harder for idiot car drivers to see you. The general consensus is that the screen on the FZS Fazer does little - I changed mine to a double bubble - made no difference, others have tried different screens only to find that it moves the wind blast from your chest to your head. Depending on how tall you are.
[/quote]


Agree about the indicators, i did the opposite and bought a packet of extra bright bulbs instead and they looked much better straight away which must mean they are seen easier by everyone else too which in my mind can only be good thing.

[TheGHunter]

Hi folks, savage knowledge on here hoping someone can help put my mind at ease or maybe tell me I've bought a horror show?


Just bought a 2003 Fazer 600 6 days ago - very pleased with it to say the least!


Pretty clean, lowish Kms (40k Kms).


Have done about 800k.s since then, long story boring - it has the old 9mm sprocket nut.


Have had it off just now to see what the thread is like - it appears good to me,doesn't appear to be damaged.


I have the appropriate nut on order (should be here Tuesday ?)


Question is - as I was putting the nut back on,nipped it up hand tight.
When I put the socket on it, tightens a tiny bit(with fuck all pressure) then goes loose...


Does this mean I'm in serious trouble or will the upgraded nut cure this/work and actually torque up?


The threads appear perfectly good both on the shaft and the nut itself.
When this goes bad,is it a case that the nut is gradually wearing the thread as it spins off or would it be noticeabley fucked?


As in, bare metal/wear marks where once there was thread - am I possibly ok seeing as the thread appears undamaged?


Any pointers,good or bad would be greatly appreciated,it's my only transport so need to get to the bottom of this ASAP!


Have a 200km round trip on Saturday and worried know I know about this, sometimes ignorance is bliss (rode home just over 200km at a fair clip - not a care in the world? nursing it the 25km round trip in an out of work now)

Don't suppose you have link handy for this replacement bolt. 
Thanks