Hi folks, savage knowledge on here hoping someone can help put my mind at ease or maybe tell me I've bought a horror show?
Just bought a 2003 Fazer 600 6 days ago - very pleased with it to say the least!
Pretty clean, lowish Kms (40k Kms).
Have done about 800k.s since then, long story boring - it has the old 9mm sprocket nut.
Have had it off just now to see what the thread is like - it appears good to me,doesn't appear to be damaged.
I have the appropriate nut on order (should be here Tuesday ?)
Question is - as I was putting the nut back on,nipped it up hand tight.
When I put the socket on it, tightens a tiny bit(with fuck all pressure) then goes loose...
Does this mean I'm in serious trouble or will the upgraded nut cure this/work and actually torque up?
The threads appear perfectly good both on the shaft and the nut itself.
When this goes bad,is it a case that the nut is gradually wearing the thread as it spins off or would it be noticeabley fucked?
As in, bare metal/wear marks where once there was thread - am I possibly ok seeing as the thread appears undamaged?
Any pointers,good or bad would be greatly appreciated,it's my only transport so need to get to the bottom of this ASAP!
Have a 200km round trip on Saturday and worried know I know about this, sometimes ignorance is bliss (rode home just over 200km at a fair clip - not a care in the world? nursing it the 25km round trip in an out of work now)
(29-05-24, 07:39 PM)Brrm!Brrm! link Wrote: Question is - as I was putting the nut back on,nipped it up hand tight.
When I put the socket on it, tightens a tiny bit(with fuck all pressure) then goes loose...
The threads must be damaged, they may look ok but are stretched. Post some pictures?
(29-05-24, 07:39 PM)Brrm!Brrm! link Wrote: Does this mean I'm in serious trouble or will the upgraded nut cure this/work and actually torque up?
If the output shaft threads are stretched/damaged, then you'll have to split the motor and replace the shaft I'm sorry to say.
Thanks for the reply (despite the dire prediction... :'( )
Stupidly, I never thought to take any pictures yesterday before I buttoned everything back up!
Will take pics on Tuesday/Wednesday when the 12mm nut & washer arrives.
(I put blue loctite on it yesterday when reinstalling it - The bit of jerk/lash I was feeling rolling on/off throttle is gone {for now...} and I don't want to disturb it in the meantime as the bikes my only transport).
I noticed when I was taking it off/putting it back on that there is 2-3 turns that required the socket but closer in, it gets tight to a point but fairly easily goes loose again. Possibly the inner thread is banjo'd and outer is still good?
Have been trying to fined Unfazed's solution to the problem but everytime I see it linked, the link redirects to the home page!
I think he somehow managed to drill the shaft to take a nut after the sprocket?
I was thinking, if possible - drill the 12mm nut and tap this to take a 3mm grub screw and loctite it all in.
Probably fanciful thinking though, dunno if the nut would take a bore like that without fucking it (weld the outer edge after?) or interfering with the actual nut thread let alone would this be in anyway a string enough solution even if possible.
Not quite the terrifying prospect I was thinking it was.
(I had found Unfazed's fix a couple of days ago but the pics weren't loading then couldn't for the life of me bring it back up...)
There's a Polish mechanic across from the job who I think would be up to this.
Nut arrives in Danfay tomorrow (probably still Tuesday/Wednesday before it lands with me) so if the thread is fucked altogether there seems to be light at the end of the tunnel!
For interest when Yamaha first recognised the sprocket nut problem they told dealers if the thread outside diameter was 17.50 m.m. or greater it was o.k. If less than 17.5 m.m. it needed replacing. The few I've measured in the past were always in the 17.85 to 17.86 range.
(31-05-24, 10:32 AM)Brrm!Brrm! link Wrote: Thanks for the info,will measure the thread all along when I'm swapping the nuts early next week.
I fixed mine by cutting a slot on the shaft and drilled a hole at the end to put a bolt and washer in it. I put what I did in the downloads section, but it seems to be missing.File also explains what else to do to prevent it falling off and stranding you if the fix failsDid this at 71000miles and now 99600miles and had 2 sprocket changes since and thankfully still good.
Message me your email address and I will send the file I put in the downloads to you.
I am hoping for you that the bigger nut that grips more thread will work for you. A note that the blue locking liquid is not the correct one to use, cant remember the code but i think the liquid is a green one
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Thanks,will pm you now. I've a few questions around drill bits, pressure/speed etc too.
(Trebus has already very kindly sent me the file,which I think is complete but no harm having having it straight from the horse's mouth as it were!)
@Fazersharp
Thanks for the info,will look it up.
The blue stuff (Loctite 2400 medium) is all I had to hand - thought it better than nothing at the very least.
New nut should be here on Tuesday/or Wednesday.
(along with Heed crash bars -€89 Inc free shipping, bargain! And a badly needed screen, anyone here gotten a screen from motorcyclescreens.eu? Polish crowd,hoping it's a good fit/quality,be a pain in the hole to send back)
It's gas,of the 3 bikes I've bought before, I've always done my research beforehand - reviews but especially KNOWN ISSUES...
I probably would have swerved off a Fazer had I have known about this(or at least pulled off the front sprocket cover...) but that being said, it's a cracking bike.
Looks great, lovely smooth engine with good midrange and surprisingly good fuel economy.
Brakes are excellent - I quickly rode my Versys after to park it up for sale and genuinely thought the hose's were busted! Absolutely terrible! Though that bike bike has very heavy engine braking in fairness and gets away with it but still...was shocked with the difference!
03-06-24, 06:35 AM (This post was last modified: 09-06-24, 08:42 AM by darrsi.)
(02-06-24, 09:54 AM)Brrm!Brrm! link Wrote: @Unfazed
Thanks,will pm you now. I've a few questions around drill bits, pressure/speed etc too.
(Trebus has already very kindly sent me the file,which I think is complete but no harm having having it straight from the horse's mouth as it were!)
@Fazersharp
Thanks for the info,will look it up.
The blue stuff (Loctite 2400 medium) is all I had to hand - thought it better than nothing at the very least.
New nut should be here on Tuesday/or Wednesday.
(along with Heed crash bars -€89 Inc free shipping, bargain! And a badly needed screen, anyone here gotten a screen from motorcyclescreens.eu? Polish crowd,hoping it's a good fit/quality,be a pain in the hole to send back)
It's gas,of the 3 bikes I've bought before, I've always done my research beforehand - reviews but especially KNOWN ISSUES...
I probably would have swerved off a Fazer had I have known about this(or at least pulled off the front sprocket cover...) but that being said, it's a cracking bike.
Looks great, lovely smooth engine with good midrange and surprisingly good fuel economy.
Brakes are excellent - I quickly rode my Versys after to park it up for sale and genuinely thought the hose's were busted! Absolutely terrible! Though that bike bike has very heavy engine braking in fairness and gets away with it but still...was shocked with the difference!
As good as the brakes are they do appreciate a bit of TLC to keep them functioning well.
I clean the pistons and calipers using brake cleaner spray (nothing else), and once the pistons are a bit further out than where they normally sit i'll put a light smear of red rubber grease on the exposed pistons before pushing them back in so the calipers can be refitted onto the discs.
Bit of an art to it but i've done it so many times now and have all the stuff to make the job easier that it doesn't take anywhere near as long now as it did when i first attempted it. It's just a clean up that will keep them sharper than ever, and i tend to clean them up before and after winter as i'm normally an all year round rider, and not only is the difference noticeable but it will save the brakes from seizing up over time which you really don't want, plus i strangely really enjoy doing the job and save myself a few quid in the process. :lol
ps: Something that should be mentioned about the calipers, which can be done regularly throughout the year with very little effort is keeping the caliper pad pins clean.With the front ones just remove the "R" clips while everything is still on the bike, push the pad pin with your finger from the inner side then use pliers to gently slide it out of the caliper.
I then use a stainless steel wool scrubber (the shiny type) and clean up the pad pin to take off any junk that builds up over time.
I personally then use a very light addition of copper grease and wipe it down with my finger, you don't want or need to put loads on.
This is good for the brakes because when these get dirty the brake pads won't be able to slide freely, which in turn will cause other problems which can easily be avoided just by doing this quick clean up. 2 or 3 times a year is more than enough, but much better than not at all.
Same on the rear caliper, no need to disturb anything else, just undo the caliper pin pads with an allen key, clean them up, again use a tiny bit of copper grease on the pin then slide back into the same position. DO NOT overtighten the pad pin, or use copper grease on the thread part, as it will just slide against the aluminium caliper and wreck your thread, as i found out the hard way myself. If you have a lightweight torque wrench use that, but not a heavier duty one, but personally i just nip up the pad pins as they really don't need a lot of tightening force at all.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
That's great info,will work into the maintenance schedule.
Doesn't seem like too much bother to do - I enjoy that type of stuff myself!
The sprocket nut finally came today.
( Danfay allegedly sent it out on Friday,only arrived today after ringing them twice yesterday...he said he'd overnight one to be sure so may end up with a spare but suspect the shipping label was printed Friday and they forgot to send it....)
will get at it this evening.
Brought the tools with me and will be doing it at the girlfriends place - dozy hole here forgot to put the digital calipers in the bag...
In fairness though, it'll either torque up or not - measuring it won't make much difference in the end!
(31-05-24, 09:49 PM)unfazed link Wrote: I fixed mine by cutting a slot on the shaft and drilled a hole at the end to put a bolt and washer in it. I put what I did in the downloads section, but it seems to be missing.
(06-06-24, 03:18 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: [quote author=unfazed link=topic=28022.msg333925#msg333925 date=1717188594]I fixed mine by cutting a slot on the shaft and drilled a hole at the end to put a bolt and washer in it. I put what I did in the downloads section, but it seems to be missing.
Got a link so we can have a look at this issue.
[/quote]
Was in the downloads section, which has disappeared but they are working on getting it back
I've attached the 'what I did file'.
06-06-24, 11:29 PM (This post was last modified: 06-06-24, 11:37 PM by Brrm!Brrm!.)
Well folks, so got to have at it this evening.
Thankfully,my earlier stopgap fix (basically just blue loctite and tighten it as mup as it would go) held up okay.
Undid the lock washer,old 9mm nut wasn't loose but did break free with not a huge amount of pressure.
Same thing as a week ago - loose for a turn,then socket on to turn it off.
Cleaned the thread and popped the new lock washer and 12mm nut on.
Socket was needed to get it on right from the start.
Got it nipped up then on to the torque wrench.
Started low (50nm) working my way upto to the recommended 90nm.
All seems good thankfully!
Will check it on Sunday when I'm cleaning/adjusting the chain.
I did use thread locker (more precisely,studlock - bondloc b270)
I went into an auto factors and asked for green loctite (270 according to Google) " what,I've never heard of that" was the reply
So he sent me to an engineering/agri supply place nearby and when I asked for "green loctite, 270" that was what I got.
Hopefully it's not overkill strength wise or I'll be cursing myself when i go to change the sprocket...time will tell I suppose
(06-06-24, 11:29 PM)Brrm!Brrm! link Wrote: I went into an auto factors and asked for green loctite (270 according to Google) " what,I've never heard of that" was the reply
So he sent me to an engineering/agri supply place nearby and when I asked for "green loctite, 270" that was what I got.
Hopefully it's not overkill strength wise or I'll be cursing myself when i go to change the sprocket...time will tell I suppose
Interesting, I'd never heard of Green Loctite.
According to this page Green Loctite isn't as strong and doesn't have as high a temeperature range as Red Loctite, but it's low viscosity, so it can be used on a part that's already secured without needing to undo it, like Plusgas it seeps into the thread.
Apparently it can also be removed with heat like Red Loctite, so you should be ok getting it off in the future.
