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Rear wheel roller bearing help
#21
(21-01-20, 01:56 PM)robbo link Wrote: Gloss black at a local firm. They are not a dedicated bike part company, but established in 1947 and have done small parts for me in the past which I've been happy with. I've seen car wheels that they've done which looked ok, but I should find out by the end of the week. I do get what you're saying though, buy cheap, buy twice. Can only keep my fingers crossed. Smile


I went for satin black - the gloss black just looked a bit too shiny.


The local firm I used were well established and do a lot of industrial stuff and car stuff (wheels, racing car chasis etc). They have also done bike wheels before, but not many. They didn't get the masking right at all - missed bits that should have been coated (outside face of the bearing holes) and coated stuff that shouldn't (disc/sprocket mounting faces), even though I gave them clear instructions. Also looked like they hadn't cleaned them off properly after blasting - particularly on the inside of the rim where the tyre bead sits. Only paid £100, but cost me an extra £60 to get them stripped by Triple S, so a £160 mistake in total.


Hope you have a better experience than me - let us know when you get them back.
FZS 1000 Gen1 (2003)
Tiger 900 GT Pro (2020)
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#22
I know how you feel. At times you wish you could do everything yourself when so called professionals let you down. The firm I'm using have done bike wheels before as my mechanic mate has used them for his own bike. I'm paying 100+vat, so £120. It's a pity you can't mask them yourself, which obviously, you can't.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#23
im doing me own...I aint got the means to do powdercoating but auto paint suppliers will pre mix two pack in a rattle can...you obviously got to be prepped and ready to straight away coz its curing from the moment its mixed. The good thing with wheels is you know exactly whats got to be painted so you can mask up yourself, then put the whhels on a round bar to act like a long spindle between two trestles then spin the buggers as you spray, getting a nice even coat. last tim I didn't even bother to take the tyres off, just popped them back off the bead and masked in between the rubber and the wheel. its not as good as powdercoating, but im totally had it with people you pay good money for a good job then they dont do it. What finished it for me was having a pair powdercoated green for my zx9rb1, then because they hadnt done whatecer they should have done to prep for powdercoating, the paint 'shelled' when I was changing tyres, despite having plastic bead protectors between te levers and the rim. if you paint it yourself in two pack (or even cellulose) its easy enogh to repair the odd patch if you need to. just all imho obviously, and im a brickie so what the foc do I know … Smile Smile
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#24
Yep, I agree with all of that. I would have sprayed them myself thus saving the bearing grief and tyre removal, but I don't have anywhere warm enough to spray in, and I wanted the work done in time for April when the Fazer goes back on the road. A guy that I would have trusted to spray them has mysteriously gone under the radar for whatever reason, so powder coating was for me the only option. I must admit I'm dreading taking them for the tyres to be fitted. :eek
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#25
Wheels back from powder coaters. Reasonably happy with the result for the price paid. The masking was a bit hit and miss but nothing the Dremel and a Stanley blade couldn't sort out. I can see that it's difficult to keep the masking in place to cover the vertical lip that locates the disc. I've an idea that dedicated bike powder places have plugs that push into the threaded hole, and have a shoulder moulded on them which masks the area around the hole and the lip.
I've ordered tyres from Oponeo, never used them before, sticking with the Roadtec 01's. All being well the bike should be back on its wheels by the end of the week.


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Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#26
good progress there ROBBO  :thumbup .......looks good and the gloss finish should make the wheels easier to clean......
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#27
Thanks Mr Red. Easy cleaning will hopefully be the main advantage, coupled with a shinier look to the wheels which is just a personal preference.  :thumbup

Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#28
they look stunning robbo, brilliant colour and finish mate, should look mustard on the bike Smile
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#29
Thanks Mr.Ogri. I must admit I'll be bricking it when the tyres are fitted after reading your account of "shelling", which is something I'd never considered. I'll keep you posted :lol .
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#30
that was probably as much my fault in truth mate, what with my builders 'fingers like pigs tits' as my mate Graeme likes to tell me  :lol Wink
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#31
(25-01-20, 05:52 PM)ogri48 link Wrote: that was probably as much my fault in truth mate, what with my builders 'fingers like pigs tits' as my mate Graeme likes to tell me  :lol Wink
:rollin :rollin
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#32
good thread this  Smile ....


been replacing a rear wheel bearing in my 2002 ford fusion,drum brake on the rear same as a fiesta, i always use the same method,brake drum in the oven at max for 30 mins and the bearing in the freezer overnight,bearing on these drums are 45/50mm deep and would be a struggle if you didn`t have a press,i dont have one so up early this morning as i need the cage for work tomorrow ,i put the bearing in the freezer early evening yesterday and the drum went in the oven this morning on max for 30mins,got everything ready in the garage for a swift install ,old bearing outer to use as a drift and a massive chair makers sash cramp with jaws deep enough to take the drum.......armed with some thick gloves,bearing out of the freezer,drum out of the oven and out to the garage,laid the drum on the bench and offered up the bearing making sure its square before i press it in with the cramp.......lined it up and let it go and it fell to the bottom of the drum    Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin    had some funny looks from the neighbours as i danced around the garden      :lol


seen this on you tube a lot but this is the first time ive been able to do it thinking there must be something iam missing,i always end up winding it in with the cramp.....


great buy with the bearing tool ROBBO :thumbup ....added to my must have list....wheels a bit big to get in the oven and the heat might affect your power coating but i strongly recommend and overnight stay for the bearing in the freezer  :thumbup ...hope it goes well...
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#33
yup a good thread mate, I do love learning stuff Smile
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#34
yep  :thumbup ....it will be a sad day when you stop learning......
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#35
Well done Mr.Red, love it when a plan comes together :thumbup :thumbup . Saved you some time and effort, especially after the battle you had stripping the mighty thou.Yep, have a similar plan in mind regarding the freezer. Am keeping the wheels in the house to be at least better than garage temp. then apply heat with a hair dryer. I won't put the roller bearing in the freezer for too long as might make it's inbuilt rubber seals too brittle and may damage them. To make sure I've got an accurately fitting drift for the ball bearings , I just cut across the old outer bearing face with an angle grinder, so you end up with a broken circle. If the new bearing is to be fitted in a recessed housing it won't matter if the "drift" follows it in as it can easily be dug out as it's not a tight fit due to not being a continuous circle.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#36
good point about the rubber seal in the bearing  Wink .....perhaps i had better start getting all technical and start to monitor the temps for the perfect fitting temps...........beautiful sound when that bearing dropped in  Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin .....still making me smile now  :lol
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#37

Got my wheels back from Triple S. So much better than the previous cowboys. Apparently when the previous powder coat was removed the original wheel paint was still on the wheels so they hadn’t even been blasted before they were coated. That probably explains why it was such a poor finish.


The finish from Triple S is flawless and the masking absolutely spot-on, nothing for me to do except put them back together. Have invested in a new set of Brembo Serie Oro discs and titanium disc bolts.

[smg id=3378 type=preview align=center caption="Wheels"]
FZS 1000 Gen1 (2003)
Tiger 900 GT Pro (2020)
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#38
Nice :thumbup . Glad you're happy with the result after the drama you'd had. Wow, new discs and bolts too, nice one. My budget is a tad smaller :lol , so originals going back on, but have read several accounts of 100,000 miles plus on original discs providing genuine pads are used, which I do. Have you got a method in mind for replacing the roller bearing?.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#39
To be fair, my existing discs are absolutely fine for wear. I always use Yamaha pads as well. Just the bolts and inner mounting section are getting a bit scabby so decided to leave them on my existing wheels and treat the new wheels to some nice shiny new discs and bolts. I've heard good reports about the Brembo discs being a good upgrade.


Like you, I'm just planning to use a bit of threaded bar to install the needle roller bearing. I already have a set of bush and bearing drifts I can use with the threaded bar.
FZS 1000 Gen1 (2003)
Tiger 900 GT Pro (2020)
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#40
Fitting the needle roller bearing didn't go well :'( . The length of studding plan failed. I'd left the bearing overnight in the freezer, which I was not totally happy about, but half expected it to drop in after heating the hub. Can't be sure how much stress I put on it trying to press it in, so have ordered a replacement to be on the safeside.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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