Oil filters

[unfazed]

Sounds very like a hand job to me ?

[fireblake]

Yeah I know nothing is cheap in France apart from wine, bread & cheese.

With a Gallic shrug some would say that is all you need in life.


Mickey

[Gnasher]

Are the branded ones any different? I've always used hiflo on my previous bikes but the fz has a genuine yamaha one on it.
I've had a look and they are double the price of the hi flo, I can't think of a reason why one could be considered more 'premium' than another?

Hiflo are TUV approved and will perform to the same standard as OE, but they're of a lesser quality i.e. the paint is thinner and the steel is lower grade, therefore they rust much quicker, they can also be pigs to get off at times.  I don't know where or how much you've been quoted for a OE filter but they're £9.50 inc vat, Hiflo vary widely from £6 to £11, personally I go OE with Silkolene Comp 4.   

[fireblake]

I've just changed my oil and filter again and used a K&N. I don't know why i keep bothering. As said before, the little nut on the front is a waste of space and should be a 16mm or something but because of paint is slightly bigger but less than a 17. I'll hunt through my old Dad's Whitworth sockets for a size.


Mickey

[Arfa]

I've stopped using the K&N oil filters now. I've heard of a few cases where they fail and leak. The bit with the nut attached fails and they leak everywhere. Happened to a mate on his Speed Triple whilst zooming round the alps! Was super lucky to both not lose it on the trail of leaking oil or seize up his engine... Some reckon they fail if you try to tighten them with the nut (which you should do anyway), but my mate certainly didn't do that. Dunno, could have just been a bad batch going round. Either way, I wouldn't want to take the risk.

[darrsi]

I've stopped using the K&N oil filters now. I've heard of a few cases where they fail and leak. The bit with the nut attached fails and they leak everywhere. Happened to a mate on his Speed Triple whilst zooming round the alps! Was super lucky to both not lose it on the trail of leaking oil or seize up his engine... Some reckon they fail if you try to tighten them with the nut (which you should do anyway), but my mate certainly didn't do that. Dunno, could have just been a bad batch going round. Either way, I wouldn't want to take the risk.

My last one i had of the K&N version leaked exactly as you described, and i only put it on hand tight without attempting to use the daft sizeless nut.

[VNA]

Hiflo are TUV approved and will perform to the same standard as OE, but they're of a lesser quality i.e. the paint is thinner and the steel is lower grade, therefore they rust much quicker, they can also be pigs to get off at times.

HIflo, according to their web site have been making OEM filters since 1963.  I've been using em for quite a few years now, it seems to be to be the same quality as the Yamaha marked product.

Should be torqued to 17NM.  Use one of these to fit then remove;

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_1...er_wrench/

personally I go OE with Silkolene Comp 4. 

Hiflo and super4 for me. Comp 4 is fully synth, OTT I'd say for road use, and if you must make sure you have some miles on the bike before you start filling it with fully synth as can polish bores which leads to a bike that burns oil.

[Gnasher]

Hiflo are TUV approved and will perform to the same standard as OE, but they're of a lesser quality i.e. the paint is thinner and the steel is lower grade, therefore they rust much quicker, they can also be pigs to get off at times.

HIflo, according to their web site have been making OEM filters since 1963.  I've been using em for quite a few years now, it seems to be to be the same quality as the Yamaha marked product.

Should be torqued to 17NM.  Use one of these to fit then remove;

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_1...er_wrench/

personally I go OE with Silkolene Comp 4. 

Hiflo and super4 for me. Comp 4 is fully synth, OTT I'd say for road use, and if you must make sure you have some miles on the bike before you start filling it with fully synth as can polish bores which leads to a bike that burns oil.

What utter bollocks :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin Yamaha supply bikes with fully synth in them from new matey

[Frosties]

So, are we saying that new Yamaha's come fitted with forged pistons which don't need mating to the cylinder ???


I'd have thought a new engine would at least need semi synth to aid the running in with the mineral oil properties.................or am I stuck in a time warp  :look

[VNA]

What utter bollocks [img alt=:rollin]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/rollin.gif[/img] [img alt=:rollin]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/rollin.gif[/img] [img alt=:rollin]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/rollin.gif[/img] [img alt=:rollin]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/rollin.gif[/img] [img alt=:rollin]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/rollin.gif[/img] Yamaha supply bikes with fully synth in them from new matey

Nope.  Anyway why would they do that when the oil is ditched at 600 miles?  Doh!

This is the Fazer forum, so this discussion is probably irrelevant considering the age of our bikes.  But it is a long standing known issue that bikes run in gently and then filled with fully synth after the 600 mile service can end up with polished bores.  Polished bores mean a bike that burns oil as the piston rings have failed to bed in.

Talking of "utter bollocks", oil filters, your thin paint, low grade steel and pain to remove claims on hiflo filters?  Based on? 

[celticdog]

[quote author=Arfa link=topic=22346.msg264304#msg264304 date=1499774947]
I've stopped using the K&N oil filters now. I've heard of a few cases where they fail and leak. The bit with the nut attached fails and they leak everywhere. Happened to a mate on his Speed Triple whilst zooming round the alps! Was super lucky to both not lose it on the trail of leaking oil or seize up his engine... Some reckon they fail if you try to tighten them with the nut (which you should do anyway), but my mate certainly didn't do that. Dunno, could have just been a bad batch going round. Either way, I wouldn't want to take the risk.

My last one i had of the K&N version leaked exactly as you described, and i only put it on hand tight without attempting to use the daft sizeless nut.
[/quote]


That's bad news and not what you'd expect from such a well known and rated supplier. I've been using yamaha filters but i'm going to give hi-flo a try.

[Gnasher]

So, are we saying that new Yamaha's come fitted with forged pistons which don't need mating to the cylinder ???


I'd have thought a new engine would at least need semi synth to aid the running in with the mineral oil properties.................or am I stuck in a time warp  :look

Modern say mid 80's on engines are machined to far higher tolerances, also the use of improved and advanced materials and coatings (86 GSXR1100's had teflon coated bores) and semi synth and fully synth oils have all helped increase power, reduce wight, massively increase reliability, reduce wear.  Running an "engine in" is pretty much a waste of time since late 90's, running in by definition is fine machining, which wasn't possible with older materials, machining.  First services are really to check for ancillaries, brakes, hoses, fastenings etc, changing the oil is a formality in fact you now have to pay for it, years back it was free as it had to be done, now it's another way of making money out of you!  Up until say 20 years ago car engines lagged behind bikes, but not any more they're right up there often ahead why, same as above plus emissions and just look at the service. intervals 20k.  Bikes for years were exempt from emission testing at the point of manufacture (they still are at MOT but not for much longer) but not anymore since about 03 which is why the crab Fazer had to go. 


Things have been moving on for some years!!                 

[mtread]

'' the crab Fazer had to go''
Sideways?

[VNA]

Running an "engine in" is pretty much a waste of time since late 90's, running in by definition is fine machining, which wasn't possible with older materials, machining.

  Expect that pretty much all the bike manufacturers recommend it, and not just for 600 miles.  And no running in is not fine machining.
Bollocks indeed.

[robbo]

A pal of mine owned a Kawasaki dealership until retiring around 2005. They used a specific grade of oil for the first 600 miles, or whatever the mileage was for the first service. I remember they used Rock Oil and the drums in the workshop were clearly marked to avoid any confusion.

[Gnasher]

[size=1em]What utter bollocks      Yamaha supply bikes with fully synth in them from new matey [/size][/quote[size=1em]]Nope.  Anyway why would they do that when the oil is ditched at 600 miles?  Doh![/size]

Because you now pay for a first service and the oil and have been doing so for some time now it used to be free I wonder why..................... Doh

[size=1em]This is the Fazer forum, so this discussion is probably irrelevant considering the age of our bikes.  But it is a long standing known issue that bikes run in gently and then filled with fully synth after the 600 mile service can end up with polished bores.  Polished bores mean a bike that burns oil as the piston rings have failed to bed in.[/size]

Crap utter crap old school and old habits  Modern say mid 80's on engines are machined to far higher tolerances, also the use of improved and advanced materials and coatings (86 GSXR1100's had teflon coated bores) and semi synth and fully synth oils have all helped increase power, reduce wight, massively increase reliability, reduce wear.  Running an "engine in" is pretty much a waste of time since late 90's, running in by definition is fine machining, which wasn't possible with older materials, machining.  Running an engine at low fixed revs will not help they need varying revs.  Pistons rings don't need to bed in haven't for years, out of date practices not required with newer materials.

Talking of "utter bollocks", oil filters, your thin paint, low grade steel and pain to remove claims on hiflo filters?  Based on?

I've supplied/fitted 100's of Hiflo filters over the years they don't last outwardly as long as OE, they are cheaper because they are not the same quality of materials.  They still filter to the same standard that's why they've got TUV./font]

[Gnasher]

Running an "engine in" is pretty much a waste of time since late 90's, running in by definition is fine machining, which wasn't possible with older materials, machining.

  Expect that pretty much all the bike manufacturers recommend it, and not just for 600 miles.  And no running in is not fine machining.
Bollocks indeed.

:rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin you clearly have absolutely no idea what your talking about, you've not changed at all matey last time it was Poppies  :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin

[Gnasher]

A pal of mine owned a Kawasaki dealership until retiring around 2005. They used a specific grade of oil for the first 600 miles, or whatever the mileage was for the first service. I remember they used Rock Oil and the drums in the workshop were clearly marked to avoid any confusion.

It's not that they don't change the oil it's that they don't really need to, hence why they now charge for it.  Changing the oil isn't going to do any harm nor is not changing it, if owners what to that's their choice.  Using Rock oil or any other is just what the manufacturer is in partnership with at the time, Yamaha used to be Mobile, now it's Yam lube, Kawasaki I think is now Fuchs.


If you go to Silkolene's web site search oil by bike FSZ600 will come up as suitable for "all" their that is 10/40w I wonder why!!!!! 

[unfazed]

What happened to this thread, I thought it was about oil filters  :rolleyes

[Dudeofrude]

What happened to this thread, I thought it was about oil filters  :rolleyes

Its still is... vaguely. But as with any internet based conversation there's a good dose of arguing and drama thrown in for good measure.... on that note I'm nearly out if popcorn...... as you were ??