Removal of front forks.

[Paulfzs]

so i can just undo caps take fork out turn it upside down but keep hand over it to stop everything falling out.


last oil change i did was around 5 years ago and i did the seals at the same time.


seals where only done on my bike around 4k miles ago.

[maxzer1500]

  No need to change seals if no sign of oil, even if dust seals are ok it's worth prising them up to make sure things are clean and dry underneath. You can lay spring washer and spacer on something clean, noting close coil end on springs and letting any excess oil to drip into fork tube first ( for the jug level ), i always use rubber gloves. Sounds a bit anal but i always clean the fork tubes of bugs after a ride, they are enough to make the seals leak.

[Jules-C]

You have to take the springs, spacers and washers out to measure the oil level so no point trying to keep them in while draining the oil out

[anutz]

any pointers on HOW to measure the oil level, if you actually pre-measured the correct ammount, could you not just pour it in?

[Jamieg285]

You can't pre-measure accurately, only enough to get you close.

The actual measurement is done by measuring the distance from the oil level to the top of the fork (AKA the air gap).  It's suprisingly sensitive, a little oil can make a big difference.  You have a specific measurement to get to, but it's also important that both sides are equal.

[anutz]

ok understood.....so, HOW do you verify the same level?

I might cut some length of plastic and use it as a dip type stick...

[sinto607276]

Just a had quote to do my fork seals...
Both quotes for loose forks...

Guy in shawlands £40 no oil
Ride on motorbikes £100 including oil

So I guess it's get the forks off time now

[anutz]

hi sinto, are they local?

when i was thinking of sending mine away i needed good packing materials....local carpet shop was happy to give me loose cardboard rolls that the carpt came on.....nice and tought and fit the forks nicely....with a bit of bubble wrap


:lol

[sinto607276]

hi sinto, are they local?

when i was thinking of sending mine away i needed good packing materials....local carpet shop was happy to give me loose cardboard rolls that the carpt came on.....nice and tought and fit the forks nicely....with a bit of bubble wrap


:lol

Don't you have a local shop or any guy that's closer to you?

Yes, both places within 5miles of my house, can drop them one day then collect them a couple of days later, although I was hoping to drop them off on a sat morning as I'm working away in Carlisle for a week, where I use my cage, then collect them when I return. But the guy says he's closed when I wanted to do it, so I just need to use my cage next week :eek

[anutz]

yes have shops close, it was when i was considering sending them to a company that sold springs, but gave it a go myself and was not hard - changing springs, not done fork seals....think you need a certain set of tools...

[sinto607276]

Don't think you need 'special' tools as there's always stuff around you can use and having a bit of savvy helps too :rolleyes
I've done fork seals before and no hassle, only thing is...it's a foccin dirty job and where do you get rid of the old oil is a pain now :eek so for the price for someone to do them of the bike, let them have the hassles :lol

[Jules-C]

To answer you earlier question use something clean to use as a dipstick.  I used a large screwdriver last time with a bit of tape wrapped round the shaft so when the bottom of the handle was resting on the top of the fork tube the bottom of the tape was at the required oil level.  You can get setups with a syringe with a long calibrated tube so you slightly over fill the for and then suck the oil out till it falls to the right level.

You local council dump should have a waste oil tank.

But your right it can be messy and once the oil contaminated with water it stinks

[mobile mouse]

hi,


Regarding the 15mm in post 10, 14 and pictured in post 15.
What manual and does anyone have a copy I would like to understand why the 15mm and what it does to the front suspension.


Cheers,

[sinto607276]

hi,


Regarding the 15mm in post 10, 14 and pictured in post 15.
What manual and does anyone have a copy I would like to understand why the 15mm and what it does to the front suspension.


Cheers,

I've got a manual and the download for the 98 fazer and can't find that anywhere, mind you, I don't have the damper screw on top so it might be just for that model??

[sinto607276]

So I was out in the garage contemplating what I'll need to do to get these forks off...

All looks easy enough, got the beam to support the front or I'll just use my eazyrizer lift, not decided yet, but has anyone came across any problems once they've taken the front wheel off for example, goosed bearings or the like.
Pre-warned is pre-armed

[anutz]

i had no issues, get the bike supported under the engine with front wheel free, pop wheel out, might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics, so undo top yoke bolts first, then slacken off cap bolts then slacken off each bottom yoke bolt and don't let fork drop, maybe nip up cap bolts again...

[sinto607276]

i had no issues, get the bike supported under the engine with front wheel free, pop wheel out, might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics, so undo top yoke bolts first, then slacken off cap bolts then slacken off each bottom yoke bolt and don't let fork drop, maybe nip up cap bolts again...

Good advice anutz apart from "might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics" is this not what I'm paying them to do the job for? :moon :rollin

[anutz]

[quote author=anutz link=topic=17392.msg200877#msg200877 date=1435094796]
i had no issues, get the bike supported under the engine with front wheel free, pop wheel out, might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics, so undo top yoke bolts first, then slacken off cap bolts then slacken off each bottom yoke bolt and don't let fork drop, maybe nip up cap bolts again...

Good advice anutz apart from "might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics" is this not what I'm paying them to do the job for? :moon :rollin
[/quote]

yeah but when its in the forks its safely held strongly so if its a bugger to release the cap you know its held properly in forks and not potentially damaged by an over tightened vice........might be just me worrying about nothing but thats what i spend a lot of time doing....

its keeps me busy.....now i am worried...  :lol

[sinto607276]

yeah but when its in the forks its safely held strongly so if its a bugger to release the cap you know its held properly in forks and not potentially damaged by an over tightened vice........might be just me worrying about nothing but thats what i spend a lot of time doing....

its keeps me busy.....now i am worried...  :lol

They'll be fine I'm sure, just imagine, hand in forks, they don't have the tools or the knowledge :eek ,  I go back and I get them, they've been damaged or focced, guess who's in trouble? Not me matey as i only took them off, I've done my job, I'm sure they can do theirs

And yes, you do worry a bit too much mate :rolleyes

[Jamieg285]

has anyone came across any problems once they've taken the front wheel off for example, goosed bearings or the like.
Pre-warned is pre-armed

Watch our for the speedo sensor when removing/replacing the wheel.  Rather than confuse things with left/right, it's on the opposite side to the the axle bolt.  It is easy to snap the tabs on it, so try to hold it in place until the wheel is clear of the fork and you can pull it out safely. Alternatively, I ran a string of small zip ties around holes in the brake disc and over the speedo sensor, so it was held in place.  This does mean you have to leave the wheel in place rather than away from the bike, but it worked for me.