Had the water pump out this morning, looks fine, no play its clean, seals look good. No obvious signs of water and oil mixing, no mayo.
The coolant level has never dropped nor has oil level. Its possible a previous owner used a very light oil as coolant or a dark orange coolant perhaps.
A compression test showed even cylinder pressures.
If all looks well i'd be inclined to use some RadFlush in the system and give the bike a good run, or leave it in the system for a couple of days then flush out and refill with proper coolant and see if it all seems okay?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Mine looked just like that 2 years ago when I first changed the coolant after my first servicing. I put it down to not being changed EVER in the 10+ years the bikes been around.
Coolant just changed. This time the waste looked much better - no 'oil' etc.
Could be wrong though! :lol
(07-05-13, 10:38 PM)edc link Wrote: Mine looked just like that 2 years ago when I first changed the coolant after my first servicing. I put it down to not being changed EVER in the 10+ years the bikes been around.
Coolant just changed. This time the waste looked much better - no 'oil' etc.
Could be wrong though! :lol
I s'pose if a bike gets passed from inexperienced people to more inexperienced people over short periods of ownership then it's maybe possible that the fluids could be overlooked, but i'd have thought a mechanic doing an MOT would pick up on the colour of it in the expansion tank?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I would have just assumed that the mechanics look at the level and figure its fine - you can't see very well the colour or viscosity through the expansion tank
(07-05-13, 10:38 PM)edc link Wrote: Mine looked just like that 2 years ago when I first changed the coolant after my first servicing. I put it down to not being changed EVER in the 10+ years the bikes been around.
Coolant just changed. This time the waste looked much better - no 'oil' etc.
Could be wrong though! :lol
thats what i put it down to at first, it did still have that greeny fluorescent yellow tinge to it.
i'm gunna rad flush soon, just running with clean water in for a week and then drain it all off and check again.
I'd be careful running with just water tbh, depending on how hard your water is it could start to scale up very quickly, i remember killing a montego doing that a few years ago(did me a favour actually).
For the cost i'd add at least 'some' antifreeze.
Leave the RadFlush in for a couple of days so it cools down and heats up a few times, it's much more effective.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Can't see the picture, but I had the same thing in my coolant... like the alcohol in the antifreeze went back to being a sugar... I just flushed it load and topped it up, no problems yet but will only see the next time I drain.
Is antifreeze really a better coolant than water?
(08-05-13, 11:51 AM)carrier link Wrote: Can't see the picture, but I had the same thing in my coolant... like the alcohol in the antifreeze went back to being a sugar... I just flushed it load and topped it up, no problems yet but will only see the next time I drain.
Is antifreeze really a better coolant than water?
i believe its more the anti freezing and anti corrosion properties you're after.
Coolant also increases the boiling point compared to just water.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(08-05-13, 01:45 PM)darrsi link Wrote: Coolant also increases the boiling point compared to just water.
i did not know that
(08-05-13, 06:29 PM)markaboot link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=7633.msg74593#msg74593 date=1368017126]
Coolant also increases the boiling point compared to just water.
i did not know that
[/quote]
Basically without it you have a really fast kettle :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
:rollin
Fast but hopefully slow boiling. :lol
Chris
![[Image: 208008.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/208008.png)
It wouldn't be fun if it was easy, I just wish it wasn't this much fun.
anti scale, anti freeze, anti corrosion, better heat transfer and higher boiling point, i think at a 50/50 mix you're looking at about 110 c, and at 100% its closer to 200 c. Apparently though its best anti freeze mix is 60-70% if you're looking at frost prevention. Min 25% for anti scale/anti corrosion.
What temp does the thermostat open/fan come on and light come on with fazers?
Who knows? No temp. guage!!
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Pretty sure its in the manual and/or technical docs and that it comes on at 90C
(08-05-13, 07:09 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=markaboot link=topic=7633.msg74668#msg74668 date=1368034173]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=7633.msg74593#msg74593 date=1368017126]
Coolant also increases the boiling point compared to just water.
i did not know that
[/quote]Basically without it you have a really fast kettle :lol [/quote]
The anti freeze does little to raise the boiling point it's because it's a pressurised system that does that.
Later
Last summer my fazer boiled over sitting in traffic, coolant coming out the overflow pipe before the cooling fan kicked in. Turned out to be too little antifreeze in the water, was at about 30%. Now have least 50/50 and no issues with boiling over, cooling fan kicks in fine.
Never seen coolant that colour before, if it looks like oil, and smells like oil
(08-05-13, 08:06 PM)riz link Wrote: anti scale, anti freeze, anti corrosion, better heat transfer and higher boiling point, i think at a 50/50 mix you're looking at about 110 c, and at 100% its closer to 200 c. Apparently though its best anti freeze mix is 60-70% if you're looking at frost prevention. Min 25% for anti scale/anti corrosion.
What temp does the thermostat open/fan come on and light come on with fazers?
stat opens at 80deg
cant find figures for fan on or engine temp warning
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