19-02-25, 02:29 PM
Two more remarks to this conversion:
The R1 secondary transmission ratio is 43/16. The FZS1000 ratio is 44/16. Thus the speedo will read low by about 3%, which nicely compensates all (built-in) errors to 0.
The resistance of the original R1 thermistor is ~1k ohm when submerged and cooled by the fuel. In "free air" the temperature increases up to 85°C due to self heating and the resistance drops to ~ 100 ohm.
The missing-tank-thermistor issue can be solved in different ways. My recommendation is #3:
1. Fixate the float in a proper position and mount a R1-thermistor to it.
2. Use some electronics to convert the quasi-continuous float-resistor to NTC behaviour.
3. Emulate the NTC by modifying the original fuel sender. The fuel-sender is a stepped-switch. Cut all unnecessary lines. Only the empty-position remains connected (~95 ohm in total). Add 2 resistors as per drawing (external or on the ceramic). By this the float-resistance is switched between ~250 ohm (empty) and 1500 ohm (all other positions).
The R1 secondary transmission ratio is 43/16. The FZS1000 ratio is 44/16. Thus the speedo will read low by about 3%, which nicely compensates all (built-in) errors to 0.
The resistance of the original R1 thermistor is ~1k ohm when submerged and cooled by the fuel. In "free air" the temperature increases up to 85°C due to self heating and the resistance drops to ~ 100 ohm.
The missing-tank-thermistor issue can be solved in different ways. My recommendation is #3:
1. Fixate the float in a proper position and mount a R1-thermistor to it.
2. Use some electronics to convert the quasi-continuous float-resistor to NTC behaviour.
3. Emulate the NTC by modifying the original fuel sender. The fuel-sender is a stepped-switch. Cut all unnecessary lines. Only the empty-position remains connected (~95 ohm in total). Add 2 resistors as per drawing (external or on the ceramic). By this the float-resistance is switched between ~250 ohm (empty) and 1500 ohm (all other positions).