03-05-23, 11:40 PM
(03-05-23, 05:18 PM)jul1us link Wrote: Mine is also the same CCDF rotor which you have. Instead of filing it, I gave it a very light tap with a hammer and it fits very snug. Did you file it on the left or right side? If on the left the advancing might be little more than 4 degrees?
I am going the other way as you, the ignition rotor was the first mod, the rest is being done at the moment. On the stock bike it was very smooth at low rpms, I will update here once I've got the full monty done which I'm almost finished with.
What difference does it make if the rotor is magnetic or not?
Re: CCDF advancer being too tight on crank, I barely took off a few thou of material, just dressed up the key way slot to make it fit like the OEM rotor, don't forget different metals expand different amounts, so hammering a stainless rotor onto a hardened cast steel crank isn't the best idea, cranks are known to break on many bikes, even later crossplane R1's suffer crank failures.
Ooo carb mods, brings back memories, my advice is replace all the O-rings while they're apart, I think it's since been discovered, probly by Falcon that drilling only 1 bypass hole per carb is actually enough, I drilled 2 per carb as Ivan recommends, now regret not trying it with 1 hole drilled, I found Ivans mixture screw settings way too rich & the choke was ineffective & emissions smelt really rich, idled crap too, put a few miles on it, bike was drinking fuel big time, the mixture screw springs felt too weak set at Ivans settings & I was concerned about the screws vibrating out, probly wouldn't but I'm too OCD, so tried em at 4 turns out, still felt too rich & choke was barely effective, I've since reduced em to 3.25 turns out bike seems far happier & choke is now effective, starts 1st time from cold with half choke.
I also believe there's another mod (R1 cams) no info, just heard it's been done.
Let us know how you get on with the F/Monty & 4 degree advancer. :thumbup