19-09-18, 12:33 AM
(18-09-18, 07:07 AM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=Grant1Shepherd link=topic=24556.msg284442#msg284442 date=1537228383]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=24556.msg284414#msg284414 date=1537163584]
Something else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?
It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.
And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722...#msg262253
Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.
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They tend to break down gradually rather than just stop working completely, which is why it can go unnoticed for a while.
Idle can be a little unstable, but it's most noticeable at lower speeds around 2500rpm when you'll need to use the clutch more than normal as the bike can feel a bit jerky to control.
Once you open the throttle right up it's not as bad but will still be wrong.
It's one of those things that creep up on you, and only when it's corrected will you then realize how wrong it was before.
The link i posted above explains how to check it, and what the codes mean.
The TPS is the black gadget that is wired on the right side of the carbs.
To check it only takes about a minute to do. If you pull the plastic protective cover back towards the left you'll see better where the catch is that needs releasing to unclip it.
Just carefully separate the two parts then turn the ignition key on (don't start the bike).
The RPM needle will go back and forth from 0rpm to 3000rpm. This is showing either a totally faulty TPS.......or......it's unplugged.
Then with the ignition still switched on, just plug the two parts of the TPS back together........and see where the RPM needle goes this time.
5000rpm is the correct position.
If the needle stays on 0rpm or 10,000rpm then the TPS needs adjusting slightly to move the position of the needle back to 5000rpm.
Actually, just click on the above link, it's a bit more detailed, and let us know what you find.
Another useful link here as well http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0
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So basically (sorry to have to dull it down for myself) if the RPM needle goes to 3000rpm at any point during this check, it's a fault code? I don't need no fancy diagnostic machine? The bikes RPM needle will go to 3000rpm if the TPS needs replacing?
If once I put it back together (with ignition still on) and it stays on 0rpm or goes to 10,000rpm it just adjusting?
and if it just goes to 5000rpm, it's fine?
Is that the basic dulled down version? :lol