Clutch biting point issue, worn clutch basket?

[b1k3rdude]

• reference adjustable levers, even good one's really play havoc's with the feel and setting of clutches and won't help.  The tolerances on the dimensions just isn't there and a mm here and there can make a huge difference.  I've had this issue many times on owners bikes I've worked on, same with brake levers.
  
• From what you've thus far told us and providing there no real issues the the clutch basket, my money is on the non OE springs and plates.  As I said earlier the clutch release mechanism moves only a matter of a few mm, non OE plates can be slightly thinner, thus cheaper or indeed thicker to compensate for lower spec material being used, same with springs.
  
• If what you've now done hasn't worked, I'd go for springs, change these for OE easy to do.  Or while you've got the cover off just strip the clutch and check all the plates for wear/thickness and warpage just remember to put them back in the correct order.     
  

• Well so after 2 days with the better span adjustable ( V-Trec, bought from a fellow foccer) levers (greased and adjusted), the issue hasn't re-presented itself, but I also have to factor in that I have lightly lubed the cable (squirted from top enough that it should trickle down) and squirted the arm pivot and top of the pull-rode shaft. The better levers seem to have better bit-point distance & control even with 3mm of free-play - this make me think the shape and sweep of the chinese levers was too acute (came close to the bars, so once span-adjusted the lever was too close to the bar)
  
• I think I mentioned I am running OE spring and plates, both of which have less than 10k on.
  
• If the issue comes back then I will strip and examine the clutch plates and springs for tolerances.
  

Only other remotly related issue is every now and then I can't do a clutch-less up-change from (I think) into or from 3rd, pulling the lever in resolves that, so that's a non issue for now.