Is your rev counter behaving itself? Is the needle moving about in places that it shouldn't?
Sorry Joe i've only just read your post properly but your description sounds extremely familiar to the TPS problem i just had!
I never had the lumpy idle, but did have the juddery/hesitant feeling at lower revs but it wasn't so bad if you gave the bike a bit of welly, but after i put the replacement TPS on i realised it actually wasn't smooth at higher revs at all.
Do a TPS diagnostic check, it only takes seconds to do
1) Switch the ignition on (just with the key, don't start the bike)
2) Gently unplug the TPS, the black plastic looking thing with the wire going into it, sitting on the right side of the carbs. You may need a flat screwdriver to unhook the connector, i actually did mine with a key!
3) Look at the rev counter, the needle should go from 3000rpm to 0rpm about every 3 seconds, which is indicating either total TPS failure, wiring failure, or it's simply unplugged.
4) After watching that procedure a few times just plug the wired connector back into the TPS.
5) You want the rev needle to go straight to the 5000rpm position.
If it goes to 0rpm or 10,000rpm the TPS needs adjusting.
And i presume if it goes to 3000rpm then the TPS itself is more than likely knackered.
I think 4000rpm is a speed sensor issue, but i doubt that's your problem here.
If it goes to 10,000rpm start the engine. If you turn the key off when the needle's at 10,000 then gravity will make it drop clockwise and it will then sit 'under' the stop pin. Unless you have the correct torx tool to hand, then you could adjust the TPS straight away.
Although it's easy to take the clocks apart, it can be avoided, as starting the engine should put the needle at the idle position, then you you can turn the engine off.
I found out the hard way........twice. :rolleyes
[size=1em]6) If it needs adjusting, you need a T25 torx driver, the one with the security pin hole in the centre.[/size]
[size=1em]7) When you've gone through the above procedure then undo the 2 screws on the TPS whilst the needle's at either 0rpm or 10Krpm, and just rotate it until you see the needle land on the 5000rpm position,then tighten the screws back up.[/size]
[size=1em]Note: The TPS should be adjusted at normal operating temperature, ie: when the bike's engine is warm and the revs are as close to about 1250rpm as you can get it.[/size]
[size=1em]If the TPS setting was out of spec, the adjustment should sort it out.[/size]
[size=1em]If the bike still doesn't feel like it's behaving, then a replacement TPS will sort things out. [/size]
[size=1em]Sorry if that all sounds a bit long winded, but i'm just trying to be thorough for you, and as i said the check itself will literally take seconds to do. [/size]
Sorry Joe i've only just read your post properly but your description sounds extremely familiar to the TPS problem i just had!
I never had the lumpy idle, but did have the juddery/hesitant feeling at lower revs but it wasn't so bad if you gave the bike a bit of welly, but after i put the replacement TPS on i realised it actually wasn't smooth at higher revs at all.
Do a TPS diagnostic check, it only takes seconds to do
1) Switch the ignition on (just with the key, don't start the bike)
2) Gently unplug the TPS, the black plastic looking thing with the wire going into it, sitting on the right side of the carbs. You may need a flat screwdriver to unhook the connector, i actually did mine with a key!
3) Look at the rev counter, the needle should go from 3000rpm to 0rpm about every 3 seconds, which is indicating either total TPS failure, wiring failure, or it's simply unplugged.
4) After watching that procedure a few times just plug the wired connector back into the TPS.
5) You want the rev needle to go straight to the 5000rpm position.
If it goes to 0rpm or 10,000rpm the TPS needs adjusting.
And i presume if it goes to 3000rpm then the TPS itself is more than likely knackered.
I think 4000rpm is a speed sensor issue, but i doubt that's your problem here.
If it goes to 10,000rpm start the engine. If you turn the key off when the needle's at 10,000 then gravity will make it drop clockwise and it will then sit 'under' the stop pin. Unless you have the correct torx tool to hand, then you could adjust the TPS straight away.
Although it's easy to take the clocks apart, it can be avoided, as starting the engine should put the needle at the idle position, then you you can turn the engine off.
I found out the hard way........twice. :rolleyes
[size=1em]6) If it needs adjusting, you need a T25 torx driver, the one with the security pin hole in the centre.[/size]
[size=1em]7) When you've gone through the above procedure then undo the 2 screws on the TPS whilst the needle's at either 0rpm or 10Krpm, and just rotate it until you see the needle land on the 5000rpm position,then tighten the screws back up.[/size]
[size=1em]Note: The TPS should be adjusted at normal operating temperature, ie: when the bike's engine is warm and the revs are as close to about 1250rpm as you can get it.[/size]
[size=1em]If the TPS setting was out of spec, the adjustment should sort it out.[/size]
[size=1em]If the bike still doesn't feel like it's behaving, then a replacement TPS will sort things out. [/size]
[size=1em]Sorry if that all sounds a bit long winded, but i'm just trying to be thorough for you, and as i said the check itself will literally take seconds to do. [/size]
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