27-05-13, 10:45 AM
Thanks again for the suggestions.
The old alarm was installed by the dealer when the bike was first supplied and was hard wired in (soldered into the loom) with the connectors clipped off. I spent ages tracing the wires (as Fazerider says the wiring diagram was not much help and all the wires are the same colour to deter thieves). That's what I bought the new loom for, as a guide to what it should be like. After days of continuity testing and labelling up wires, basically it involved soldering together two loops (replicating what the connector blocks do):
1. between the fuel pump relay and the ignition; and
2. between the kick stand switch and neutral.
Everything else could just be terminated as it was things like connections to the indicator lights, the alarm LED, or power for the alarm box.
I've double checked the spare wire coming from the CDI and even on the new loom it goes nowhere. So I think this is hidden in the loom for soldering into when the alarm is installed. So I'm back to thinking that it might be the CDI? Unfortunately I have since realised that my new loom does not appear to have connector blocks, or any visible wiring, for the indicator or hazard relays. Why would that be? So a complete swap over is not on the cards anyway. And it's a big job as Fazerider says.
Next job I will check all all the connections in the box under the tank as Stooby2 suggests.
Next step is going to be trying to trace the current live. From reading the wiring diagram logic suggests:
Testing 1 should be easy enough. But for testing 2, any ideas how I check whether the coil pick up is firing a signal to the CDI? Will this read Amps or Volts, DC or AC? And do I test between the two legs of that circuit or one and earth?
To make things worse, the weather's nice and I have no functioning bike. As if that wasn't bad enough it means I have no excuse to get out of family trips...
T
The old alarm was installed by the dealer when the bike was first supplied and was hard wired in (soldered into the loom) with the connectors clipped off. I spent ages tracing the wires (as Fazerider says the wiring diagram was not much help and all the wires are the same colour to deter thieves). That's what I bought the new loom for, as a guide to what it should be like. After days of continuity testing and labelling up wires, basically it involved soldering together two loops (replicating what the connector blocks do):
1. between the fuel pump relay and the ignition; and
2. between the kick stand switch and neutral.
Everything else could just be terminated as it was things like connections to the indicator lights, the alarm LED, or power for the alarm box.
I've double checked the spare wire coming from the CDI and even on the new loom it goes nowhere. So I think this is hidden in the loom for soldering into when the alarm is installed. So I'm back to thinking that it might be the CDI? Unfortunately I have since realised that my new loom does not appear to have connector blocks, or any visible wiring, for the indicator or hazard relays. Why would that be? So a complete swap over is not on the cards anyway. And it's a big job as Fazerider says.
Next job I will check all all the connections in the box under the tank as Stooby2 suggests.
Next step is going to be trying to trace the current live. From reading the wiring diagram logic suggests:
- Turning on the ignition should (if none of the starter cut-off circuits are tripped) fire the fuel pump relay, giving power to the fuel pump (I can hear lots of clicking at the (new) pump for a few seconds - assume that's right? Should it be more of a "whirring" sound?). This circuit also gives one leg of power (the red/black leads) to both HT coils, via the fuel pump relay.
- Then on firing the starter switch the starter spins over (which it does) and should spin the alternator creating a signal from the pick up coil to the CDI.
- CDI should convert this into power for the orange and grey leads on the other leg of the HT coils respectively.
- Hey presto.
Testing 1 should be easy enough. But for testing 2, any ideas how I check whether the coil pick up is firing a signal to the CDI? Will this read Amps or Volts, DC or AC? And do I test between the two legs of that circuit or one and earth?
To make things worse, the weather's nice and I have no functioning bike. As if that wasn't bad enough it means I have no excuse to get out of family trips...
T