I've used genuine OEM pads for years ever since a set of EBCs chewed through my VFR's discs in 2500 miles and my discs are still fine at 102,000 miles. Beware aftermarket pads is all I can say. Some will be fine, some won't.
Anyway, warning over. On track, brakes get more of a beating than any other component so need to be in perfect condition otherwise they will fade. That means get them off the bike and clean them until they are absolutely spotless front and back (dirt and old pad dust stops them from shedding heat. It insulates them) Make very sure the recesses for the seals are utterly spotless too. A soft brass wire brush on a Dremel is very useful, I find.
Then make sure the seals are in perfect condition, rebuild with red rubber grease only (comes with a new set of seals these days) and finally, use new brake fluid. ie buy a new can. DOT 4 is fine in my experience.
Do that and even prolonged braking should be no problem.
Anyway, warning over. On track, brakes get more of a beating than any other component so need to be in perfect condition otherwise they will fade. That means get them off the bike and clean them until they are absolutely spotless front and back (dirt and old pad dust stops them from shedding heat. It insulates them) Make very sure the recesses for the seals are utterly spotless too. A soft brass wire brush on a Dremel is very useful, I find.
Then make sure the seals are in perfect condition, rebuild with red rubber grease only (comes with a new set of seals these days) and finally, use new brake fluid. ie buy a new can. DOT 4 is fine in my experience.
Do that and even prolonged braking should be no problem.
![[Image: 125377.png]](http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-uk/125377.png)