30-11-12, 10:27 PM
Just can't seem to get my head around a few things here.
Firstly. Why fit shorter USD forks and then use the extender to raise the front end back up to standard right hight? If it was for better suspension is there not a cheaper option of switching/upgrading for internals. Surely the idea of going to R1 forks is to lower the front end and make it more reactive, sharper with stiffer handling. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Secondly. Loose, nice, tight or interference fit I don't think WD40 is the right sort of chemical compound to be spraying on a sleeve that I want not to move. Glue would be better imo. Might an idea be to to run a slot halfway up the lenght of the extender and then to clamp it, maybe by using something like one half of a fork brace. Just a thought. Jubilee clamp for a buget option.
Out of interest do Harris (Obviously Bob's not with us any more) give any specs with regard to movement or clearance, or are they rock solid? I remember when I was at school I used something called a Zeus data charts for working out calculations. Still struggle to get my head round it.
As for mass produced stuff. I PDI over 100 arborist machines a week and recently had to return an engine from a mower that was going to shake it's self to bits. On closer inspection it turned out that the hole drilled and machined in the end of the crankshaft that the clucth and cutter blade bolts to was not only off centre but slightly out of square. I thought it was a bent crank at first We sent the motor back to Briggs and they say they've looked and there's nothing wrong with it. I bet they didn't even screw a bolt in the crank and turn it over.
Now I'm starting to ramble so I'm gonna go and build a bling fitted kitchen for Emma's Dolls house.
Firstly. Why fit shorter USD forks and then use the extender to raise the front end back up to standard right hight? If it was for better suspension is there not a cheaper option of switching/upgrading for internals. Surely the idea of going to R1 forks is to lower the front end and make it more reactive, sharper with stiffer handling. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Secondly. Loose, nice, tight or interference fit I don't think WD40 is the right sort of chemical compound to be spraying on a sleeve that I want not to move. Glue would be better imo. Might an idea be to to run a slot halfway up the lenght of the extender and then to clamp it, maybe by using something like one half of a fork brace. Just a thought. Jubilee clamp for a buget option.
Out of interest do Harris (Obviously Bob's not with us any more) give any specs with regard to movement or clearance, or are they rock solid? I remember when I was at school I used something called a Zeus data charts for working out calculations. Still struggle to get my head round it.
As for mass produced stuff. I PDI over 100 arborist machines a week and recently had to return an engine from a mower that was going to shake it's self to bits. On closer inspection it turned out that the hole drilled and machined in the end of the crankshaft that the clucth and cutter blade bolts to was not only off centre but slightly out of square. I thought it was a bent crank at first We sent the motor back to Briggs and they say they've looked and there's nothing wrong with it. I bet they didn't even screw a bolt in the crank and turn it over.
Now I'm starting to ramble so I'm gonna go and build a bling fitted kitchen for Emma's Dolls house.
Some say that he eats habanero chilli peppers dipped in oil of capsaicin for extra bite and that his pyjamas are made from Nomex. All we know is, he's called Ad the Bad