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What are you going to do with your Fazer this winter...?
#21
(14-11-21, 10:33 AM)darrsi link Wrote: Which clutch cable did you go for? I'm really liking this Slinky one from Wemoto, as it seems to feel very smooth and effortless.

The current one is a Slinkyglide (as are the throttle cables I'm buying) and I was happy with it as the previous one was getting stiff.

It probably doesn't need replacing yet, but if the lube doesn't work on the current one (which may be stiff just because it's spent a lot of time sitting around not being ridden) I'll swap them over and it's always good to have a spare!
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#22
(08-11-21, 08:57 PM)fazerscotty link Wrote: [quote author=robbo link=topic=27182.msg327734#msg327734 date=1636287329]
[quote author=fazerscotty link=topic=27182.msg327699#msg327699 date=1636019427]
#1. Fit the Ivan's kit arriving in a couple of weeks.

#2. Touch up paint work where required.
#3. Fit new pair of tyres - thinking of PR 5's or Avon XDM's(?)
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........
Shame you didn't have the Ivanising kit when you changed the throttle cables, as you'd done all the hard work getting the carbs off.
For me, other than a repair to the Ermax undertray, an oil/filter change and an exup valve service there's nothing pressing to be done to the Fazer. Got all my planned powder coating done last winter, so the bikes as good as ready for next season.
[/quote]


Tell me about it  :'( :'( :'(
Still, it means a few hours in the nasty cold garage, with the smell of E10 wafting around - WITHOUT THE GRANDKIDS  :rollin :rollin :rollin
[/quote]


And item #1. has arrived.
Still considering #3. Avon XDM's appear to be popular for the Fazer Thou.


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#23
Not got a huge amount planned for the winter TBH. I serviced my FZ6 back in October, oil, filters, fresh coolant, brake fluid etc. Flew through MOT no-hassle last month. I'm now living in Scotland, so I'll probably only be riding the odd day when the weather allows, but I do now have a garage to keep it out of the elements and on the trickle charger. But no upgrades to the bike planned. I could do with reevaluating the air horn I've mounted under the fairing, it hangs down a fraction too much and very occasionally hits the front fender when the forks fully compress. But that's been on the list for some time now...

My main winter focus is going to be getting everything straight in our new house and organising the garage. I would like to kit it out with some nice workshop cupboards, worktops, bike ramp etc, but due to lack of funds after the move, that'll have to be a longer-term plan.

Otherwise, winter is the time I finally get round to doing something with all that video footage I shot in the summer. Hopefully, it's not all shit and I can cut something vaguely interesting out of it...
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#24
Delivery from WeMoto:

New clutch and throttle cables, new air and oil filters and new chain and sprockets.

Oh, and a replacement spring for the left footpeg as the old one broke and it keeps getting stuck in the "up" position when I'm moving the bike around which can be a PITA when I get on and I'm trying to find it with my boot!

Now, which to do first...?!  :book



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#25
(11-12-21, 10:22 PM)Grahamm link Wrote: Delivery from WeMoto:

New clutch and throttle cables, new air and oil filters and new chain and sprockets.

Oh, and a replacement spring for the left footpeg as the old one broke and it keeps getting stuck in the "up" position when I'm moving the bike around which can be a PITA when I get on and I'm trying to find it with my boot!

Now, which to do first...?!  :book
Hmm tough one, start with the easiest thing and work your way up?
*Disclaimer*
Nothing I say should in any way be taken as a good idea ?
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#26
Other than ride it whenever possible got a few jobs on the back burner, from changing the handlebar grips to greasing the swing arm and rear suspension linkages, let's see if I get them all done this winter
*Disclaimer*
Nothing I say should in any way be taken as a good idea ?
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#27
try to put the thing back together


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follow me and ile show you were to crash

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,484.m...ml#msg2583
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#28
(03-11-21, 11:16 PM)darrsi link Wrote: Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth. Plus I sprayed a load of grease into the clutch cable housing too while it was off, which no doubt helped things a bit as well.


Just an update on the Slinky Glide clutch cable, it lasted 7 months.
For the last month or so I had to keep adjusting it, then after a couple of times of adjusting it from the bottom end as well I realised that it had had enough when the top adjuster had no more to give.
Bear in mind these cables cost under a tenner, and an OEM one cost me £55, which I fitted this morning, but even still I would've expected it to last a bit longer than that.
It started off feeling a bit stiffer than it should be so I oiled the cable, which did help, but it was all far too soon, I shouldn't have needed to do that after only a few months.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#29
I’ve always bitten the bullet and bought oem cables and brake pads, even though the prices are a real wallet stretcher :'( . The cables I changed purely as a precaution, nothing wrong with them, just didn’t want a failure to spoil any trip I might be on. Buy cheap, buy twice is still relevant I think. Plus the fact the job has to be done twice.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#30
(02-07-22, 05:22 PM)robbo link Wrote: I’ve always bitten the bullet and bought oem cables and brake pads, even though the prices are a real wallet stretcher :'( . The cables I changed purely as a precaution, nothing wrong with them, just didn’t want a failure to spoil any trip I might be on. Buy cheap, buy twice is still relevant I think. Plus the fact the job has to be done twice.


In this case I could've bought 5 times. I know OEM stuff can be overpriced, but it generally is far superior.
At first the Slinky cable felt great, as it should do when new, but performance went 'rapidly' downhill.
Had 2 people ask me straight away if I compared the lengths of each cable out of curiosity, but as I pulled the new one through taped to the old one it wasn't really an option.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#31
(02-07-22, 05:22 PM)robbo link Wrote: I’ve always bitten the bullet and bought oem cables and brake pads, even though the prices are a real wallet stretcher :'( . The cables I changed purely as a precaution, nothing wrong with them, just didn’t want a failure to spoil any trip I might be on. Buy cheap, buy twice is still relevant I think. Plus the fact the job has to be done twice.


As for brake pads, i've used SBS Ceramic on the rear and Galfer on the front for ages, which have both served me very well. But i couldn't find the Galfer pads at a sensible price last time so gave the Street 634HS SBS pads a go for the front after reading advice on here over the years and i must confess i'm liking them a lot so will stick with them from now on. They were even cheaper than the Galfer pads too, which was a nice bonus.  8)
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#32
23K miles now so I guess Id better have a look at the valve clearances. But not until winter
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#33
(02-07-22, 02:58 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=27182.msg327696#msg327696 date=1635977785]
Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth. Plus I sprayed a load of grease into the clutch cable housing too while it was off, which no doubt helped things a bit as well.


Just an update on the Slinky Glide clutch cable, it lasted 7 months.
For the last month or so I had to keep adjusting it, then after a couple of times of adjusting it from the bottom end as well I realised that it had had enough when the top adjuster had no more to give.
Bear in mind these cables cost under a tenner, and an OEM one cost me £55, which I fitted this morning, but even still I would've expected it to last a bit longer than that.
It started off feeling a bit stiffer than it should be so I oiled the cable, which did help, but it was all far too soon, I shouldn't have needed to do that after only a few months.
[/quote]


I think it's only fair on people that I should retract the comments about the Slinky Glide clutch cable, as it turned out that my clutch pressure plate was fractured and not performing correctly, causing irregular and random action.
So I basically binned what was probably a good cable.


OEM will always be better, but don't be put off trying out the Slinky Glide cable if you're on a budget.



More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#34
I once fitted a slinky glide on one of my other bikes, it lasted maybe a month. It was supplied with a plastic ferrule (the sleeve that fits inside the hole in the lever) and it rapidly became chewed up. The original had a metal sleeve and the sleeve was still as new, so I fitted the old sleeve onto the new cable. Basically, the plastic sleeve wasn't fit for purpose.
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#35
(04-07-22, 04:07 PM)agricola link Wrote: 23K miles now so I guess Id better have a look at the valve clearances. But not until winter


and I think i'll add new chain and sprockets too, plus two new tyres in the new year
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#36
Ride it  Big Grin
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#37
(02-09-22, 05:13 PM)agricola link Wrote: I once fitted a slinky glide on one of my other bikes, it lasted maybe a month. It was supplied with a plastic ferrule (the sleeve that fits inside the hole in the lever) and it rapidly became chewed up. The original had a metal sleeve and the sleeve was still as new, so I fitted the old sleeve onto the new cable. Basically, the plastic sleeve wasn't fit for purpose.


That plastic ferrule caught my eye as well now you said that, and I thought it was a bit odd too as it will have lever pressure constantly pulling on it.
Certainly worth bearing in mind.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#38
(02-09-22, 05:14 PM)agricola link Wrote: [quote author=agricola link=topic=27182.msg329598#msg329598 date=1656947254]
23K miles now so I guess Id better have a look at the valve clearances. But not until winter


and I think i'll add new chain and sprockets too, plus two new tyres in the new year
[/quote]


Funnily enough I was just talking about changing my rear tyre a few minutes ago.
I have a PR4 on at the moment but although I absolutely love the grip and handling of it, this particular tyre has given me nothing but grief from day 1, from leaking rims, a leaking internal patch/plug, and even had trouble when it was being fitted.
I ordered another (from abroad) over a year ago but I accidentally ordered a different model.
In two minds to ask if the shop will do a swap for another PR4 with a bit of cash on top, as I really trust those tyres.
The one I got looks like it'll be fine in wet or dry weather, but not so confident about what it might be like in frosty/icy weather, and I ride all year round so it is a big deal for me.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#39
After my trip to the Bol d’Or later this month it will be time for the valve clearances to be checked again. Whilst the radiator is out I might consider getting it recored, more as a precaution against future failure than anything else. When my rear tyre was fitted in the spring, the company’s new employee managed to damage the powder coating on the rim, so that will be redone at their expense at the same time.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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#40
(03-07-22, 10:07 AM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=robbo link=topic=27182.msg329579#msg329579 date=1656778965]
I’ve always bitten the bullet and bought oem cables and brake pads, even though the prices are a real wallet stretcher :'( . The cables I changed purely as a precaution, nothing wrong with them, just didn’t want a failure to spoil any trip I might be on. Buy cheap, buy twice is still relevant I think. Plus the fact the job has to be done twice.


As for brake pads, i've used SBS Ceramic on the rear and Galfer on the front for ages, which have both served me very well. But i couldn't find the Galfer pads at a sensible price last time so gave the Street 634HS SBS pads a go for the front after reading advice on here over the years and i must confess i'm liking them a lot so will stick with them from now on. They were even cheaper than the Galfer pads too, which was a nice bonus.  8)
[/quote]


Little update on the SBS front pads. As a pad, brilliant, in wet or dry, I can't fault them in that respect.
Thing is, I always used to harp on about how good the Galfer pads were and how they lasted ages but at the same time they barely made a mark on the discs, they were extremely disc friendly.
I've had the SBS pads on for just short of 6 months and unfortunately they've very noticeably eaten into my after market discs.
Once I'd cleaned the dirt off the pads they looked like they were brand new, in fact they looked no different to when I took them out of the packet.
I was doing my pre-winter caliper service and my pistons were absolutely fine, so it would seem that the pads are just a harder composite than the discs.
Bit of a shame, 'cos as I said, the pads work brilliantly in all conditions but when compared to the Galfer pads the disc wear is massively different in comparison.
Because I service my calipers once or twice a year it is something I check so I spotted it straight away.
I'll keep an eye on it but I can see me changing them some time next year as pads are much cheaper than discs.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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