headlights.... leds,halogens,hids,projectors etc ect

[Paulfzs]

Yeah the link is just for one set. So if you do both sides you'll need to buy 2 sets.  I followed instructions herehttp://fotifixes.com/2012/12/27/hid-projector-installation-in-a-2001-fazer-600/
Yeah you have to split the lights.
5 mins I'm the oven at 90'C softened everything up nicely. Same to put it back together

Carved out the h1 hole to fit the h4 projector.

We'll worth the effort. You could just to 1 projector if you didn't want to wreck your light.
But In my eyes it was no great loss.

Ahh so theyre just push through and screw a big nut on it.


i wonder how this would sit with an mot though as you cant put a h1 bulb back in

[sinto607276]

Ahh so theyre just push through and screw a big nut on it.

Basically yes!

i wonder how this would sit with an mot though as you cant put a h1 bulb back in

You might find your answer here Paul, it'd be too much for me to try and explain my readings of it so thought you could read it and get your own thoughts?

http://www.ukmot.com/bike-1-2.asp#Text_top

[Paulfzs]

as far as im aware its the pattern and where the beam shines that may be a problem.

[hmmmnz]

should be a pass then,  the dipped beam is a nice solid line when against a wall,
it might flair a little wide, but i doubt it would fail,  if the retro lab lights pass mot, (which i know they do) then these will as well

[size=1em]ii) deflect the main beam/s to make them dipped beam/s.

c. either beam as selected is affected by the operation of another lamp or the horn, or which flickers when tapped lightly by hand [/size]

[size=1em]

as long as they point in the right direction, have some way of dipping the headlight
and as long as the light is white or yellow and doesnt flicker when tapped, then they can't fail you.


it used to be different years ago, and there was all sorts of nonsense about self leveling and what not.
not really applicable to bikes so i guess they pulled it out.

if you were worried about it you could just do a single hid h1 bulb, and a h4 bi-xenon projector
i think that would give out ample light,  and be totally reversible.


[/size]

[sinto607276]

as far as im aware its the pattern and where the beam shines that may be a problem.

Thats true but if it shines within the scope it should pass and as projectors are directional and you'd still have the use of the adjustment screws at the back to move them to a suitable position.

My car has projectors for dipped beam with  HID's in them and never had a problem with MOT's and i've had the car about 5 yrs.

The fitting of them is the key to get them sitting correctly to start with I'd imagine as if you get that too wrong, even the adjustment at the back might not sort it.

if you were worried about it you could just do a single hid h1 bulb, and a h4 bi-xenon projector
i think that would give out ample light,  and be totally reversible.

I'd be much happier doing dual lights as I think the single light on the Fazer gives the wrong impression to other road users i.e. "one of your bulbs are out"

[Paulfzs]

Going to be "cheap" and order a set from ebay as ive bought 10000 kits and have enough ballasts and bulbs to fit headlights tail lights and helmet lights.


£23 for 2 projectors

[hmmmnz]

why so many kits?? 
but yeah all you need is the projectors if you have the ballasts and bulbs any way

I'd be much happier doing dual lights as I think the single light on the Fazer gives the wrong impression to other road users i.e. "one of your bulbs are out"

id hook up the h1 bulb to the dipped beam circuit so it was always on, and have both dip and full beam on the h4 projector,  that way both lights are always on,  but everything is fully reversable.

if that interested you  

[Paulfzs]

I had next to no light from any hid kit i tried.... now confirmed my reflector is scrap.

[hmmmnz]

the fazer reflectors are literally the worst ive ever come across in the 20 odd years of riding and the 50 or 60ish bikes ive owned,
even the 6volt lighting circuit in my little 2 stroke has a better headlight.

first time ive ever use projectors, and im quite happy with the results,
keep us posted with developments on yours

[Frosties]

Think you boys have missed a trick. Have a look below and skip to 3:40 after the intro  :lol


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JVqRy0sWWY

[Paulfzs]

Think you boys have missed a trick. Have a look below and skip to 3:40 after the intro  :lol


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JVqRy0sWWY

brilliant thanks, ordered 1 for each side!

[joebloggs]

Indicator question.

As the FZS is going to be naked I've modified most of the loom around the headlight and gauge area, I haven't touched the wiring for the rear indicators although haven't finished the front wiring as not 100% sure on where I'm going to mount them. For the first time since chopping the loom I've tried the lights etc out, all the gauge lamps, headlights etc work but have no power to the rear indicators. The idiot light on the gauges flash but not the rear lamps. Do the front lights need to be connected to complete the circuit?

Also the new indicators are LED, any suggestions on resistors or LED flasher units?

[Paulfzs]

Ignore last text, just going to go h1 both sides, hopefully remove my led spotlights.


If the main beams not bright enough ill switch it for a h4 bulb and just buy the controller.

[sinto607276]

Ignore last text, just going to go h1 both sides, hopefully remove my led spotlights.


If the main beams not bright enough ill switch it for a h4 bulb and just buy the controller

How will two H1 bulbs work for an MOT Paul? (I think you need dipped and full beam for an MOT)

[hmmmnz]

yeah you need atleast a h4.  hid's arn't like halogens, they take quite a while to heat up, and produce light.
so you can't just flick to full beam, it'll stay dark for a few seconds

what you need to do with out wrecking or modifying any of your headlight housing is have
a h4 bi-xenon  which does dipped and full beam via a mechanical arm built into the light bulb
and a h1 that is just on dipped and remains on when flicked to full beam

in this case you are still relying on the fazers reflector, which if its currently crap on your halogen bulbs,
probably isnt going to be much better using hid lamps

[sinto607276]

Think I'll just stick to HID's as I get enough light from the one H1 I've got in there at the moment along with a nightbreaker H4 which I'll change to a HID H4 once I source a decent one
The added bonus is that I can remove them easily enough to get the bike back to stock if needed.

[Paulfzs]

so one of these for the main beam side: http://www.innovitedstore.com/Innovited%...r%2001.jpg

[sinto607276]

so one of these for the main beam side: http://www.innovitedstore.com/Innovited%...r%2001.jpg

That's the sort of job I need Paul but like most sellers they only sell them in pairs, you also need a power lead that goes to your battery for an H4 as this is what gives you the main beam.

The light I get from my H1 HID is good enough for me as you've seen, so if I can source a decent H4 I'll be happy as it's just bulb changing really, plus a wee bit of wire routing and ballast fitting

[Paulfzs]

Any chance of a mspaint wiring diagram for the h4 high beam?


can i just plug the harness into the looms h4 connector with the  hi/lo controller then plug that into the ballast then put the bulb in?

[sinto607276]

Any chance of a mspaint wiring diagram for the h4 high beam?


can i just plug the harness into the looms h4 connector with the  hi/lo controller then plug that into the ballast then put the bulb in?

I can't do mspaint on my phone, but if I get your question right.....

the H4 HID is just plug and play as per the H1 except you also need to run a positive and negative wire to the battery or a 'switched' live feed and an earth respectively.