Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Rear Axle
#41



The first way  :thumbup





Attached Files
.png   Capture.PNG (Size: 159.47 KB / Downloads: 52)
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Reply
#42
SWEET, thank you :-)  It was correct in first place but glad I checked.
Money doesn't buy happiness, but it buys beer, and that helps!
Reply
#43
That swing arm looks dished to me !
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Reply
#44
(10-09-15, 07:15 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: That swing arm looks dished to me !
  :rollin
Money doesn't buy happiness, but it buys beer, and that helps!
Reply
#45
Sorry harry, just found what I thought was going to be a rear axle but its a swingarm axle  :o...told you I was old........
so, had a look at my 600 and my washer is dished a bit too, think its an age thingy, iam an expert at age thingys  Wink.....your new ,new washer should sort things out  :thumbup...also took a piccie of the chain adjusters just to confirm whats already been said...

sorry to let you down, there is some good news however, whilst I was rummaging I came across  a little gem I had forgotten I had, great practical accessory for you bike....its yours matey, I'll bring it with me on sunday  Wink


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
           
One, is never going to be enough.....
Reply
#46
Shit it's not a tow bar is it, Red???????


Or a SAFE!!!????  :eek :eek :eek
Money doesn't buy happiness, but it buys beer, and that helps!
Reply
#47
NO.....................its both  :rollin..........towbar and trailer would be good for you, fill the trailer with new washers and off yoh go, no worries  Wink
One, is never going to be enough.....
Reply
#48
So now I dont get how it can get dished when there is a solid adjuster behind it, there has to be a little gap so to insert the adjuster but surly not so much that you can crush the swing arm.
Could you hammer in the adjuster with a shim piece of metal between the adjuster and inside swing arm and then tighten with a new washer and flatten out the swing arm dish, take all out and add a bigger shim to prevent new dishing, would need a sacrificial adjuster as it would get a knackered thread from hammering   
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Reply
#49
(10-09-15, 09:06 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: So now I dont get how it can get dished when there is a solid adjuster behind it, there has to be a little gap so to insert the adjuster but surly not so much that you can crush the swing arm.
Could you hammer in the adjuster with a shim piece of metal between the adjuster and inside swing arm and then tighten with a new washer and flatten out the swing arm dish, take all out and add a bigger shim to prevent new dishing, would need a sacrificial adjuster as it would get a knackered thread from hammering 


It's a steel axle bolt but aluminium swing arm that has probably been severely overtightened at some stage.
Shit happens!  :\
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Reply
#50
(10-09-15, 06:27 PM)darrsi link Wrote: The first way  :thumbup

(10-09-15, 06:28 PM)HarryHornby link Wrote: SWEET, thank you :-)  It was correct in first place but glad I checked.

Negative Pic 3 is the right way according to the service manual, so it was not correct in the first place hence the bend washer, the flat part of the spacer is outside and that way when you tighten the outside wall of the swingarm has more support, the inside bit is actually facing the internal spacer which has smaller surface anyway so no point to have bigger surface there IMO

[Image: 256gsx0.jpg]
Adrian Monk: Unless I'm wrong, which, you know, I'm not.

[Image: 606131.png]
Reply
#51
I'll say it again, the washer is bent due to severe overtightening!


Look at Red98's photo of the swingarm and you'll clearly see that the nut is smaller than any side of the adjuster plate, so in theory it wouldn't make a blind bit of difference which way round the adjuster plate was as far as the washer is concerned.


By being overtightened the washer will be forced to go any place that is free space, in this case the gap which is the metal thickness of the swingarm.


The washer couldn't really have physically got any worse as there's simply nowhere else for it to go.


As for which way round the adjuster goes it would make more sense to me to have the main central force of a torqued up nut pushing from a smaller area onto a bigger one, plus it would be much more important to keep the sprocket side flat and true which is why the need for the bigger footprint on the adjuster on the inside.
So i'm gonna boldy say whoever did that service manual drawing probably went for a liquid lunch and had one too many cups of Japanese Sake back in the day.  :b



More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Reply
#52
clear as mud,that put you mind at rest HARRY ?.... :lol ......iam with DARRSI on this one,the surface areas on both sides of the chain adjuster is big enough to cover the washer/nut area,not checked the swing arm hole size though,parhaps we have stumbled on a design fault.......new washer should sort things out,still think 117NM is a bit much,did you try undoing the nut with the bikes tool kit,the  length of the tool was designed with torque setting in mind,be interesting to find out .....
One, is never going to be enough.....
Reply
#53
Guys easy way to stop the rattle on the chain adjusters. When you have  You have done you adjusting and are ready to do up your axle to the right torque settings put a spanner in between you chain and sprocket at the top and pull the wheel towards you gently. This will pull everything nice and tight.
Hope that helps some what.
If you don't ride in the rain you DON'T  ride
Reply
#54
Had a closer look at my washers and noticed one side has a letter "N" stamped into it and the other side has a "O" stamped into it --- whats that then ?
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Reply
#55
(12-09-15, 01:53 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: Had a closer look at my washers and noticed one side has a letter "N" stamped into it and the other side has a "O" stamped into it --- whats that then ?

Is it possible to mean Nearside and Offside, but than the markins should be swapped on the opposite sides for each spacer and also we'll need to know which is left and right??  :eek
Adrian Monk: Unless I'm wrong, which, you know, I'm not.

[Image: 606131.png]
Reply
#56
What if you're in Europe?  :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Reply
#57
(12-09-15, 02:20 PM)Val link Wrote: [quote author=fazersharp link=topic=18060.msg209993#msg209993 date=1442062423]
Had a closer look at my washers and noticed one side has a letter "N" stamped into it and the other side has a "O" stamped into it --- whats that then ?

Is it possible to mean Nearside and Offside, but than the markins should be swapped on the opposite sides for each spacer and also we'll need to know which is left and right??  :eek
[/quote]
The washers are indeed fitted N= on the nearside and O on the ofside
Both measure 44mm diameter I have tried to measure the thickness in situ with the vernier caliper depth gauge but keep getting a different reading every time but I think the nearside (nut and thread side  ) is 3mm but the offside fixed nut seems to be MAYBE 2.75mm but what would be the point of that - why not both 3mm. My measuring could be wrong.
And if both are 44 mm then why have a near and offside preference.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Reply
#58
the nearside washer does not go over the axle, the difference seems to minimal, but only the off side washer will slide down the axle.
Money doesn't buy happiness, but it buys beer, and that helps!
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)