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100 nm without a torque wrench
#21
(30-07-15, 11:51 AM)J_Dub link Wrote: 100 Nm is correct, (boxeye is 60Nm) for the sprocket. Buy a torque wrench you need one to tighten the spindle too!
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Just had to add, I am a by the book kind of person, I read all the posts stating not to follow the manufacturers specs and I have successfully stripped the threads of one of my studs by torquing to 100NM/72lbft as stated in the manuals. It was a last minute sprocket change due to a manufacturers fault just before my planned trip which I have had to delay a few days. From now on I am going to use 38lbft! Wish someone bet me a beer, I need one!
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[/size]Found this on another forum, I think I would air on the side of caution, you may get away with it on nut bolts&Nuts, do not forget when you tighten and slacken then tighten again nuts & bolts some of the elsatisity is lost in the materails.
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#22
(30-07-15, 11:47 AM)Grahamm link Wrote: [quote author=chaz link=topic=17798.msg205502#msg205502 date=1438249818]
Are you sure it's 100 nms seems a lot, you do mean the bolts that hold the sprocket to the hub?

That's exactly what it says in the Haynes Manual:

Rear sprocket nuts: 100 Nm
Rear wheel axle nut: 120 Nm

I'm going to use Threadlock as well anyway.
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Personally I wouldn't bother - get them torqued up properly and you shouldn't need it (pretty sure they're meant to be dry threads on those nuts according to the Yam manual?)
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#23
well I better get me nuts tightened?
How can you torque them up dry and have thread lock on? I've never used thread lock as a lube but it must have some effect on it.
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#24
As someone else mentioned are they not nylock nuts anyway??
For me the only bolts , nuts , studs I would likely use a torque wrench on would be , bottom ends, main bearings and cylinder head nuts, coming from an engineering background I would think I am reasonably confident to not over torque or under torque fastenings.
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#25
If you have torque wrenches it makes sense to use them.

Can't remember what the torque for my rear axle nut is, but considering I like to be able to get it back off I tend to torque it a good wee bit short. 

I'm not keen on cheap torque wrenches. 

Somebody mentioned Norbar.  I recently bought a Norbar, very nice, comes with a calibration certificate.  Not cheap but will last the home mechanic a life time.  Also got a Britool which is nice too.

Did buy a cheap (ish) Williams wrench a while back.  Used it a couple of times but I'd no confidence in it.  Replaced with the Norbar. 
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#26
The nuts on the sprocker are, indeed, nylocs, so I didn't bother with the Threadlock too.
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#27
This is "Sprocket" and he doesn't like his nuts torqued at all  :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin


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#28
And as for "Bear" - any takers?  :lol :lol :lol



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#29
(30-07-15, 07:47 PM)VNA link Wrote: If you have torque wrenches it makes sense to use them.

Can't remember what the torque for my rear axle nut is, but considering I like to be able to get it back off I tend to torque it a good wee bit short. 

I'm not keen on cheap torque wrenches. 

Somebody mentioned Norbar.  I recently bought a Norbar, very nice, comes with a calibration certificate.  Not cheap but will last the home mechanic a life time.  Also got a Britool which is nice too.

Did buy a cheap (ish) Williams wrench a while back.  Used it a couple of times but I'd no confidence in it.  Replaced with the Norbar.
A torque wrench is only as good as the last time it was calibrated which should be Annually.
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#30
(30-07-15, 08:59 PM)fazerscotty link Wrote: And as for "Bear" - any takers?  :lol :lol :lol
Couple of whores the pair of them lol. Look as if they have been out on the tiles lol
Smile
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#31
"Lie back & think of England" or should i be guided by your username & say "Scotland" ? :lol
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#32
(30-07-15, 10:44 PM)lew600fazer link Wrote: [quote author=fazerscotty link=topic=17798.msg205568#msg205568 date=1438286363]
And as for "Bear" - any takers?  :lol :lol :lol
Couple of whores the pair of them lol. Look as if they have been out on the tiles lol
Smile
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No this is what happens when they hit the water bowl............


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#33
Who would have kids eh!!! these two are the dogs!!!! keep sharing what they get up to, love it.
Lew
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#34
Quote:A torque wrench is only as good as the last time it was calibrated which should be Annually.

All depends on what you are doing.
I doubt I'll ever calibrate mine.  It's not gonna get that much use.  It will be religiously wound back to zero when it is not in use.  In short buy a good one, treat it with respect, look after it and it'll last you a life time. 

On the other hand at my work annual calibrations are not acceptable.  We don't use wrenches with scale markings, only a range mark.  Each wrench is set before and after use on a torque wrench analyser.  It's the torque wrench analysers that get calibrated every year.


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#35
Well in my work they were calibrated annually as specified by the classification  society.
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#36
You're right that torque wrenches should be calibrated regularly, but more importantly they should be checked each time they are set.
I work in the aviation industry and when using a torque wrench we are required to check the set torque on a calibrated gauge before use, and whenever it is adjusted to a new setting.
I know this is a little over the top for a home mechanic but it is the only way of ensuring the correct torque is applied.
Most people don't know how to use a torque wrench correctly anyway, that's if they use one at all  :rolleyes
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#37
I still say two white knuckles or three.....
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#38
(02-08-15, 08:58 PM)fazerscotty link Wrote: I still say two white knuckles or three.....


And then give it a knock with a hammer just to be sure.
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