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rear end too light or just me?
#21
ive tried blipping the throttle a few times seems to make it better, i do have a gf but she is close so ill have to find a far one.
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#22
Every bike will try and lock the back wheel if you change down at too high revs or hit the back brake too hard. That's why there's slipper clutches and abs! The shock might be tired but I don't think it is causing your problem

wiki on slipper clutches
They are designed to partially disengage or "slip" when the rear wheel tries to drive the engine faster than it would run under its own power. The engine braking forces in conventional clutches will normally be transmitted back along the drive chain causing the rear wheel to hop, chatter or lose traction. This is especially noted on larger displacement four-stroke engines, which have greater engine braking than their two-stroke or smaller displacement counterparts. Slipper clutches eliminate this extra loading on the rear suspension giving riders a more predictable ride and minimize the risk of over-revving the engine during downshifts. Slipper clutches can also prevent a catastrophic rear wheel lockup in case of engine seizure. Generally, the amount of force needed to disengage the clutch is adjustable to suit the application
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#23
The default setting for preload on the rear shock is position 4. Having it cranked up to 9 riding solo is just asking for trouble. It is the movement of the suspension that keeps thy tyre in contact with the road.
People who think they know everything are a great annoyance to those of us who do.
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#24
I don't think this is purely a preload problem. At 44k miles, the shock has probably had it's day. You probably feel you need the preload that high to compensate for the fact the shock is tired. If you can't afford to replace it, then you should ride to the bike's current capabilities, which means, ease off a bit with the ragging.

Why are you changing down near the redline?
Why are you using the rear brake on corner entry?

Come off throttle on corner entry, using front brake only. If you don't feel they are up to the job, ride accordingly. As said above, blip the throttle on down changes. Match the revs to the gear you are in properly, i.e., don't down shift when near the redline.
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#25
(16-04-15, 03:21 PM)Paulfzs link Wrote: my rear shock appears to be on its hardest setting but its not solid.

I get the impression the pre load  was at this setting when you bought the bike. Am I correct Paul. 
If so,  there's no point speculating on knackered shocks, hard downshifts and braking untill you return the pre load back to the default setting and take it for a ride.  Just my opinion, again  Wink
Women have chocolate men have bikes.....
including ones who like chocolate....Wink
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#26
(17-04-15, 08:34 PM)midden link Wrote: [quote author=Paulfzs link=topic=16635.msg191619#msg191619 date=1429194092]


my rear shock appears to be on its hardest setting but its not solid.

I get the impression the pre load  was at this setting when you bought the bike. Am I correct Paul. 
If so,  there's no point speculating on knackered shocks, hard downshifts and braking untill you return the pre load back to the default setting and take it for a ride.  Just my opinion, again  Wink
[/quote]

Well, I'm thinking if the shock is ok, and you return it to factory settings, you're still gonna lock the back wheel shifting down near the redline, even without hard braking on the rear.
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#27
yeah ive not changed it since buying it, i often ride with an 11 stone pillion so any idea on a decent setting?


ride height isnt a problem its plenty high enough so drop in the suspension is fine
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#28
I would concentrate on setting it to what's comfortable for you the solo rider and then try the same setting with your pillion and if you feel the need make the necessary adjustments. Then the choice is yours whether to keep switching between the two settings or stick with either one or make a final setting somewhere in between.  Either way you have to be comfortable and feel safe.

Women have chocolate men have bikes.....
including ones who like chocolate....Wink
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#29
I seem to get a similar problem, weigh in at around 11stone in all my gear and have the preload at 4 or 5. Seems to skip and wallow on country roads going into corners and no matter what setting I tried i couldn't get it comfy. I changed out for a betras shock but haven't got it set up yet.


Be interesting to see if going down on your preload makes a difference, as might end up going back to stock.
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#30
Standing hard on the offside peg (i.e. putting enough of your weight on the outside peg that you have little to none on the seat) will anchor the back wheel. If your weight distribution isn't right the back wheel will skip on road irregularities. So in essence - where do you think your body weight is when cornering?
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
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#31
The only thing that's too light around here is the heads of all the 600 riders :b :b :b


:lurk
Easiest way to go fast........don't buy a blue bike
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