Help! Fork seal replacements

[PaulSmith]

For most jobs you are likely to do at home, the Haynes manual will be more useful. The Service manual has all the information you need (and more) but is not organised in a way that helps you get the job done.

[The Male Whale]

A decent bike shop would have charged you an hours labour to do that job on loose forks... £50.00.



Makes you wonder if it was worth all the effort.... :rolleyes


I do hope you put genuine seals in there or you will get to do them again shortly......


Whale

[tomsmith051]

It took a while yeah, but I can do it myself now and it won't take nearly as long next time, so thats a winner for me.


Plus I'm skint  :lol

[CamSIXFIDDY]

Just got a quick question on the damper rod lock nut! Im sure when I measured mine they were different lengths, I'm sure one had 12mm thread sticking out and the other one had 14 out, anybody know what that should be. Or the range that it can be.

[teecee90]

If you follow the fork overhaul procedure you will see that it isn't really necessary to measure the exposed thread on the damper rod:


[size=1em]39. Wind the lock nut all the way down the thread initially.[/size]
[size=1em]40.  B[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]efore refitting the top cap wind the rebound adjuster screw out all the way, then back in again by 42 clicks. Eight clicks equates to one full 360 degree rotation of the screw. This ensures that you retain the full range of adjustment on re-assembly.[/color][/size]
[size=1em]41.  [color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]Fit the fork cap and wind it down as far as it will go on the damper rod. Then back-off the lock nut up the damper rod until it tightens/locks against the top cap.[/color][/size]