(19-09-13, 06:12 PM)simonm link Wrote: If you were to turbo it where would the subsequent weakest links be? Would it be the radiator?
I know nothing about engines but am curious what bits would be in spec and which wouldn't and therefore how much of an impact it would have on the design of the rest of the bike mods and the subsequent cost.
I doubt the radiator is the weakest link - that's an separate system and is mostly impacted by revs but obviously heat does become a concern.
First of all you'd need to modify the carbs I expect and the fuel-air mixture to take advantage of the extra air - compressed air means you can use more fuel with it to produce a bigger bang in the cylinder. The bigger bang is the problem - the pistons and valves need to be strong enough to take the pressure and so does the head and cylinder block. Not sure about bikes, but with some cars you can blow the head gasket quite easily.
I always like the whine of a Supercharger but are they even practical on a motorcycle engine? And I don't mean bikes that have had a seat welded to a car engine that some of the Americans seem to enjoy doing...
![[Image: 242673.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/242673.png) ![[Image: 174802.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-uk/174802.png)
There are motorcycle specific supercharger set ups. Also, many turbo kit suppliers will supply carbs specifically designed for those kits. You wouldn't usually be using standard carbs and airbox from what I've seen.
You'd also need to think about the size of turbocharger. As far as I'm aware, car turbos tend to have a greater capacity than the ones most commonly used on bikes, I guess cos they're generally feeding larger capacity engines. But firms out there who supply and fit such systems (eg TTS), can advise and supply everything you'd need, fit it all too, but.......you've guessed it: £££££££££££££!!
If you don't do the necessary engine strengthening, you'll blow more than just a head gasket! Picture holed pistons, thrown rods and yer valves in a nasty tangle.... :eek
that pic has been my avatar for ages!! if i had a battered old fazer, i'd try copying that. the fairing is the biggest issue. it would have to be sliced horizontally and remoulded to a certain extent, and a mould taken off that. but i'm currently building a fighter at the mo, so no spare funds. BTW, i need a cheap dr650 so if you know of one....
(19-09-13, 10:07 PM)caretaker link Wrote: the fairing is the biggest issue. it would have to be sliced horizontally and remoulded to a certain extent, and a mould taken off that.
The article says the fairing is probably from a fz400 if that helps. I don't know if that was ever released in the UK tho. I don't know if it's more difficult to make a fzs 600 fairing look like something it subtly isn't.
Opinions are like A**holes, Everyone has one. Some people seem to have more than one though which is a bit odd.
20-09-13, 12:23 AM
(This post was last modified: 20-09-13, 02:01 AM by Ruby Racing.)
(19-09-13, 09:05 PM)wraith600 link Wrote: the Gilles rear sets are specifically for the FZS600, luckley the mille wheel has 10mm more offset than on the fazer but its not a straight swap as you will need a new swing arm as the stock will not take anything wider as far as i know ,the linkage mounts on the mille arm also need modifying as well as the frame as the arm is wider there are 2 spacers on the inside of the frame that need trimming down also the gear box sprocket cover needs moddifing for chain clearance most of my pix are on photobucket just follow the link , i have not as yet uploaded the latest for the new head lights
[size=78%]http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/wraith...t=6&page=1[/size]
Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
I've got an EXUP swing arm lined up, but it's 10mm too wide to fit between the frame. I plan on getting 5mm shaved off each side of the swing arm, I just don't know if that's possible or not yet. I went for another Yamaha one in the hope the linkages would line up. Certainly the width of the linkage hole on the swing arm is the same and bolt diameter is the same, so that makes life easier.
Why did you need to cut down the gear box sprocket cover? Did you need to space the sprocket out a bit to clear the tyre? Sorry just re read your previous post and see you had to space the sprocket out by 10mm. I assume that was the front one in order for the chain to clear the tyre and/or line up with the rear sprocket?
yep the front sprocket has a 10mm off set even with a525 chain it jused kissed the clutch arm hence the mod to the casing , dont forget to check the difference between the offset in the stock rim and the new one much more than 10mm and you will be getting to close to the frame , i got my front sprocket from [color=rgb(68, 68, 68)]TALON ENGINEERING [/color]
[color=rgb(68, 68, 68)][/size][/color]
So how do you offset the front sprocket? Do you get a spacer machined up or can a sprocket with the required spacer built in be bought? Is that why you mentioned Talon Eng?
This is new territory for me, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the wheel offset the distance from the centre of the rim to the centre line of the rear sprocket? If so the wheel I plan to use is about 10mm wider taking that measurement. Just a quick check with a tape measure, nothing highly accurate.
shaving those spacers on the frame is not an issue that had to be done on mine to you will need to get some stainless spacers made up because of the difference in pivot bolt size , and the sprocket was a one off with the offset built in cost £50
Great tip on the sprocket from Talon. Thank you. :thumbup I didn't know that you could do that. I'll definitely need one of those.
Rather than cut down the spacers on the frame I was going to cut down the swing arm as there is enough metal there to remove. Not sure how to do it, hoping the tutor at my welding class can advise. That way if the swing arm doesn't work I can try another. I had thought about some inserts and may use them, but I'm going o try and find the correct size roller bearings with smaller inside diameter to take the standard spindle.
Are you able to explain the offset to me please, as per below?
(20-09-13, 06:35 PM)Ruby Racing link Wrote: This is new territory for me, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the wheel offset the distance from the centre of the rim to the centre line of the rear sprocket? If so the wheel I plan to use is about 10mm wider taking that measurement. Just a quick check with a tape measure, nothing highly accurate.
(22-09-13, 12:44 AM)Ruby Racing link Wrote: Great tip on the sprocket from Talon. Thank you. :thumbup I didn't know that you could do that. I'll definitely need one of those.
Rather than cut down the spacers on the frame I was going to cut down the swing arm as there is enough metal there to remove. Not sure how to do it, hoping the tutor at my welding class can advise. That way if the swing arm doesn't work I can try another. I had thought about some inserts and may use them, but I'm going o try and find the correct size roller bearings with smaller inside diameter to take the standard spindle.
Are you able to explain the offset to me please, as per below?
[quote author=Ruby Racing link=topic=9638.msg102879#msg102879 date=1379698535]
This is new territory for me, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the wheel offset the distance from the centre of the rim to the centre line of the rear sprocket? If so the wheel I plan to use is about 10mm wider taking that measurement. Just a quick check with a tape measure, nothing highly accurate. [/quote]
Surely the point of shaving the spacers instead of the swing arm is they are a shit load cheaper to replace if any mistakes are made, not only that but an unmolested swingarm will have a higher resale value than a shaved one!
Some say...
22-09-13, 02:38 PM
(This post was last modified: 22-09-13, 02:40 PM by Ruby Racing.)
(22-09-13, 09:03 AM)Punkstig link Wrote: Surely the point of shaving the spacers instead of the swing arm is they are a shit load cheaper to replace if any mistakes are made, not only that but an unmolested swingarm will have a higher resale value than a shaved one!
I agree. However I may have misunderstood Wraith600 as I read it that he shaved down the spacers that are PART of the frame, not the loose spacers. So that's a big job and expensive too.
Whilst I would rather not cut down the swing arm, it is a necessity as it is 10mm too wide to fit between the frame. So either the swing arm or frame is altered, I can't see how you could achieve it with just different spacers. However I'm happy to be proved wrong and that's why I'm asking the questions, so I can use the easiest solution. My plan is to replace the existing roller bearings with new ones with a smaller inside diameter so I can use the Fazer spindle without resorting to spacers.
Altering the swing arm is not that big a deal as it only cost me £25 and once the build is done the bike will have been heavily modified anyway and it wouldn't be possible to put it back to standard without a lot of work. Plus I have an additional sacrificial one to test on first.
In which case, yes, shave the swingarm :lol
Some say...
This is a bit of a noob question but does the thundercat front mudguard / fender bolt straight on to the standard Fazer forks?
(24-09-13, 06:33 PM)Yamazer-92 link Wrote: This is a bit of a noob question but does the thundercat front mudguard / fender bolt straight on to the standard Fazer forks?
Nope
Some say...
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