Got Committed

[Ebme Geek]

I was on whisky the day I went around to the girl friends house, thats what she drinks  :eek  :evil  :lol

At the moment I am just desperate to get it back on the roads, did think about spraying the steal bits black, but will look naf when it rubs through from boot. :\    More thought needed.

Engine's not that spanking to be honest, only sorted the worst of it and still spotting bits I missed, but is a big improvement. Bike will never be as clean as all the others on here, but I will carry on doing bits (occasionaly  :o  )

Do Like your half rat thinking for maintenance / appearance, but don't know if I want to go that far since mine is a black bike I think it works with the blue & white.

Cheers Daz for the comment aswell

[simonm]

If I learned anything from your exploits....it's that you seem to use Rum and Coke a lot!!  :eek

I see that the gear shift lever and alloy bit are a bit corroded. Will you be trying to bring them back to their former glory?? Your spanking clean engine might force you into it! 

Rum and coke. Drink of the gods.... If there were any. As it is it's just a lovely beverage 

[packie]

Do Like your half rat thinking for maintenance / appearance, but don't know if I want to go that far since mine is a black bike I think it works with the blue & white.

Well just to give you an update....I did the all the levers and footplates and they are holding up well after 2 weeks....no a mark and I expect it to be that way for a long time. I did my brake and clutch lever over 8 weeks ago and they are holding up after constant pulling and rubbing daily. The plus factor is that it only takes one quick blast of the tin of spray to restore any part of the bike. I rather that than the rusty and corroded alloy look. I think your bike will work as well being black.

Why don't you do the gear lever and footplate as a trial for a while. If you don't like it, you can always lash on a bit of Nitromors and get your rust back!!  :lol

[Ebme Geek]

Last night gave it a quick check over, fresh eyes and all that, no more leaks or anything, smart -  .
Had borrowed a Carbtune from my brother, glad I have a long screw driver to get down onto the adjustment screws, not too bad once you have sussed where to hold a torch and where to get the screwdriver down through.

Thought I had got there, bang on, then curiosity hit about accuracy  :rolleyes , so I swapped some of the pipes over,  :eek  could not believe my eyes - all over the shop, gave it a few blips, tried different revs, unswapped - reswaped, oh sh1t. Spent ages trying to set up a half way house, then swap 2 back and check for equal differences back the other way, must have been going in right direction I had to keep tweaking the idle down, but that got confusing aswell. I am sort of happy where I ended up  ,  but want to do some checks on those gauges and maybe come back to this  :\ .
I am quite good at getting onto those screws now  :rollin .
And I now know the fan works - first time I have had it come on, helped to warm the garage, would have been better on one of the cold nights  :rolleyes .

TPS checked just over 5000, tweaked then realized did not need to, it's either down, 5100, or up; it is not a linear adjustment through the range, as I could get it twitching low to 5100 without touching it and similarly on the high side of being right. 

Last couple of bits back onto the bike fairing, mirrors, side panels
      turn the tank round & put the seat on

The result of this and another late night . . . . I rode it to work this morning.

But even better than that  . . . . I get to ride away from work later - - - RESULT    :lol 

Hi Packie
  cheers for feedback, convinced me , I will spray the gear linkage, but I might take some autosol to the footplate even though thats against my cleaning policy !!!  other side brake pedal likewise, maybe some other bits ???
    Have been thinking for some time I will spray the lower forks when I have the wheel off for a tyre in the future, but can't decide colour, White (got black wheels, but they need cleening up aswell), blue, black-gloss, satin maybe (less fussy on prep) with reflective strips to improve side on night visibility ?????

[dBfazer600]

Fantastic mate  :thumbup  You are the  :faz  God

Enjoy your ride and keep us updated of any other work you do


Gets some pics up of her dressed


Daz

[His Dudeness]

Hey mate. Do you know what brand cam chain you used?

[Ebme Geek]

Sorry for the slow response, just looked at Emails and saw you had posted here

I used a DID chain and rivet link which I got from Wemoto, it came as an endless one, so I split it and then used the new link.
But just checking I see they are only listing the Tourmax option now.  :\
Don't know who Tourmax are or if they are any good ??

The other site I looked at was AJ Sutton
  http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/...3000&uid=0

Seems a good price for the yam one, but it is endless and no joining link option, I find it strange they offer two alternatives, endless & open, and more expensive

Steve

[His Dudeness]

Thanks for the info. I've been looking for a DID one but I can't seem to find one. Wemoto seem to only have ID or tourmax ones for the fazer. ID might be the same but I'm not sure. I tried the aj site but didn't hear back from them yet. Another site had them advertised but when I made the order he said the listing was wrong and took it down. I emailed DID directly but haven't heard back oh and theres none on  fleebay. I can't see them anywhere else. I didn't think getting a chain would be so much hassle :'(

[Dead Eye]

Out of interest, why does it -have- to be a DID chain?

[His Dudeness]

Out of interest, why does it -have- to be a DID chain?

Well it's a rather important part so I'd like to go for a brand that I've used before and trust.

[Dead Eye]

That's fair enough - wasn't entirely sure if it was necessary to have a DID due to some sort of mechanical thing I hadn't read yet Same sort of situation as choosing a drive chain

[Dcock]

Hi, i'm about to try and fit a new cam chain. I was wondering if it's possible to thread the new cam chain with the cams still on. Also how did you attach the old chain to the new chain with copper wire?

[Ebme Geek]

Hi Dcock

It would be virtually impossible to keep the cams in sync with the crank if you rotate the crank, hence risk your valves. However I was left with the impression that with tensioner and front chain guide removed or at least lifted it may be possible to sag and walk - sag and walk the chain around the crank sprocket if you get what I mean. If you try this put the engine at TDC first so you can see nothing moves. I changed some shims while I was there, so made no odds to me.

Cams out and back in is easy enough, just MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH CAM CAP IS WHICH as they are machined on the head and must be in original locations, and dont forget to put engine at top dead centre before you put them back in. 

I used a thickness of copper wire that would go through the holes twice, but a thicker one once would be fine. I used a couple of the inner plates that came out from the removed link to keep the spacing right, twisted the ends together and laid them flat to the side of the chain.

My nipper kept light tension on the old coming out and the new going in so it did not sag into a mess at the bottom of the tunnel, and I turned the engine over with a socket, fed through very easy no problem. Then tied ends up and got loads of rags around so nothing could get dropped down there.  Using a punch when doing the riveting really gives a lot more control than just two hammers.
Hope that goes towards helping 

Steve

[Ebme Geek]

Maybe I can make that clearer about the copper wire,

I threaded it through the hole at the end of the chain with the inner plates in place.
Then with the same piece through the other end of the chain attaching the chain onto the other end of the link plates.
Got most of the slack out of the wire then passed it around a second time before twisting the ends together.