I know nothing about bikes except that the copper on my bikesafe course said my chain was minging. A small amount of research later and a slightly squashed finger and it's done. I used paraffin, a rag and toothbrush and used some scottoil afterwards to relube.
Two pictures, before and after. Was there any point ? Any tips ? How do you clean the side of the chain you can't see ?
Cheers
Opinions are like A**holes, Everyone has one. Some people seem to have more than one though which is a bit odd.
16-05-13, 01:52 PM (This post was last modified: 16-05-13, 01:54 PM by Dead Eye.)
Looks cleaner, but in both pics it looks too dry - need to get some more oil / lube on it
Everytime I come back from a decent ride (20~ miles or more) then I put the bike back in the garage and on its centre stand then spin the back wheel with my hand and spray the chain with lube whilst its still hot - this helps prevent it from just dripping off the chain which so far it hasn't once! Also means that next time you go out it shouldn't fling off much either and it keeps the chain nice and soaked Oh and I use Wynns Chain Lube - got it from a Motoman I believe but you can get stuff like it from all over the place. In fact, I think I've seen chain lube in a Tesco before
Put some WD40 on a rag, put the bike into gear when running and release the clutch....hold the bottom of the chain between the cogs as tight as you can.....then hey presto.....no fingers :evil
I've always heard that its better to do this sort of thing by hand than to let the engine spin the chain - not sure how much truth / accuracy there is in it but it seems less harsh and less likely you will lose your fingers :eek
(16-05-13, 02:01 PM)Dead Eye link Wrote: I've always heard that its better to do this sort of thing by hand than to let the engine spin the chain - not sure how much truth / accuracy there is in it but it seems less harsh and less likely you will lose your fingers :eek
Fuks sake Deadeye I was joking and I didn't think anyone would think I was serious.....I always spin the wheel by hand
(16-05-13, 01:54 PM)stevierst link Wrote: Fit a chain oiler, then you won't need to clean/ lube it any more:
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
It has a scottoiler ! It wasn't doing its job though. The controller only seems to oil the inside of the links/sprocket rather than preventing rust on the outside ?
I've only had the bike 4 months or so and I may need to check the instructions. I put the controller on prime a week or so back to check it was working and reset the drip rate so hopefully it'll improve.
I figured if the controller hadn't been working for a while (the bike had been left standing for a couple of years so the rust may have come from there) it was best to do some manual maintenance.
Opinions are like A**holes, Everyone has one. Some people seem to have more than one though which is a bit odd.
(16-05-13, 02:01 PM)Dead Eye link Wrote: I've always heard that its better to do this sort of thing by hand than to let the engine spin the chain - not sure how much truth / accuracy there is in it but it seems less harsh and less likely you will lose your fingers :eek
16-05-13, 03:23 PM (This post was last modified: 18-05-13, 05:40 PM by Chris.)
(16-05-13, 03:05 PM)simonm link Wrote: [quote author=Dead Eye link=topic=7847.msg76493#msg76493 date=1368709268]
I've always heard that its better to do this sort of thing by hand than to let the engine spin the chain - not sure how much truth / accuracy there is in it but it seems less harsh and less likely you will lose your fingers :eek
Saw those pictures a couple of years ago and every time I lube my chain it reminds me to be bloody careful!
More on topic, I use the Wurth dry chain lube after a decent ride to keep my chain at its best. When it looks like the chain is starting to get a build up of stuff/dirt on it then clean it. WD40 and a toothbrush, Only takes a few minutes if you keep on top of it and then re-lube with wurth dry chain lube.
A point you made earlier Si which is worth noting is that you said your chain oiler wasn't working. I guess it's a lesson to everyone that has chain oilers is that just because you have one doesn't mean you can forget about the chain. Always worth keeping an eye on it and giving it a good cleaning every now and again.
Chris
It wouldn't be fun if it was easy, I just wish it wasn't this much fun.
(16-05-13, 03:23 PM)Chris link Wrote: [quote author=simonm link=topic=7847.msg76505#msg76505 date=1368713126]
[quote author=Dead Eye link=topic=7847.msg76493#msg76493 date=1368709268]
I've always heard that its better to do this sort of thing by hand than to let the engine spin the chain - not sure how much truth / accuracy there is in it but it seems less harsh and less likely you will lose your fingers :eek
Saw those pictures a couple of years ago and every time I lube my chain it reminds me to be bloody careful!
More on topic, I use the Wurth dry chain lube after a decent ride to keep my chain at its best. When it looks like the chain is starting to get a build up of stuff/dirt on it then clean it. WD40 and a toothbrush, Only takes a few minutes if you keep on top of it
A point you made earlier Si which is worth noting is that you said your chain oiler wasn't working. I guess it's a lesson to everyone that has chain oilers is that just because you have one doesn't mean you can forget about the chain. Always worth keeping an eye on it and giving it a good cleaning every now and again.
There's more than likely a blockage somewhere, or even a hole worn in the pipe on your oiler.
Chain oilers once tuned in properly are the best way of lubing your chain, but its by no means the only attention a chain needs. C'mon, were not that thick!
Scottoilers do only oil one side of the chain, but capillary action moves the oil to the internal parts of the links. It won't necessarily oil the outside of the links to prevent rust.
One thing it will do is pretty much double your chain life, and massively reduce the need to adjust the chain slack.
(16-05-13, 04:27 PM)stevierst link Wrote: There's more than likely a blockage somewhere, or even a hole worn in the pipe on your oiler.
Chain oilers once tuned in properly are the best way of lubing your chain, but its by no means the only attention a chain needs. C'mon, were not that thick!
Scottoilers do only oil one side of the chain, but capillary action moves the oil to the internal parts of the links. It won't necessarily oil the outside of the links to prevent rust.
One thing it will do is pretty much double your chain life, and massively reduce the need to adjust the chain slack.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
it's only been on the bike for around 2k miles. Ive checked for leaks, i can see quite a few air bubbles but i've unable to bleed them using the scottoiler bottles. I will admit when it was working it was working well, it just didn't oil the inside face of the chain, it has rusted up quite badly. I may try using a syringe to force the oil in and hopefully it bleed.
(16-05-13, 04:12 PM)rufus t glasgow link Wrote: [quote author=Stooby2 link=topic=7847.msg76517#msg76517 date=1368715233]
Yep WD40 is no good for chains - it'll evaporate in no time.
If your Scottoiler is knackered, try their website - they are extremely helpful when it comes to spares, problems etc.
yeah i've had trouble bleeding my scottoiler, so much so that i'm probably gonna take it off.
[/quote]
If you prime the system it should push all the air bubbles out.
Check Delivery pipe for any air bubbles in the clear delivery tube - re-prime the system to clear these. Ensure the pipe hasn't become crushed or split at any point, if it has, resolve this first.
Ensure that the adjuster knob is turned fully clockwise to "PRIME" although do not force past "PRIME" marking on top of reservoir.
Check that the delivery pipe hasn't become crushed at any point eg. with cable ties, tool kit, or seat.
Check the black injector at the sprocket hasn't become blocked.
Opinions are like A**holes, Everyone has one. Some people seem to have more than one though which is a bit odd.
Fit a Scottoiler and be sure it's working correctly! Job Done.
I have been a Scottoiler fan since the guy opened the shop door on day one .. must be about 14 years I guess.
Can't recall ever needing to adjust or clean a rear chain .. current one is on my Honda CB1300S with 25.000 miles on the clock and looking good.
That's pulling all the extra weight of a sports sidecar around some of the best roads in Europe .. maybe not quite so fast as a Gen 1 but for sure a whole lot of extra work.
Stay Safe Trev (Spain) Navy Training: A Wet Chain is a Happy Chain 8)
(16-05-13, 11:53 AM)simonm link Wrote: I know nothing about bikes except that the copper on my bikesafe course said my chain was minging. A small amount of research later and a slightly squashed finger and it's done. I used paraffin, a rag and toothbrush and used some scottoil afterwards to relube.
Two pictures, before and after. Was there any point ? Any tips ? How do you clean the side of the chain you can't see ?
But you can use any other rust removing oil - even WD40.
2) Put some oil to prevent rust from occuring
Put some engine oil on a rug and wipe the chain with it - to make the outside of the chain a bit oily, just a thin layer.
3) Your scottoiler is doing it's job - making chain lubed on the inside where it matters - that will help it last longer. It should not oil the outer plates of the chain (the part that rusted on your chain). That is your job with cloth and some engine oil.
Most things done in a hurry need to be done again - patiently.
Oh and I use Wynns Chain Lube - got it from a Motoman I believe but you can get stuff like it from all over the place. In fact, I think I've seen chain lube in a Tesco before 
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