(27-05-25, 05:18 PM)maryhinge Wrote: Hi folks,i have a question for you, what are you getting on rear shock when setting rear rider sag?I have had a total refurb of my oem shock and was expecting it to be well within parameters.I got 525 mm with rear wheel off the floor for the static sag the sat on bike whilst holding wall for support whilst my friend pressed down on rear and measured the lifted rear and measured .both measurements added and the halved gave 472.5mm,take this from 525mm static which equals 52.5 mm!This was on max preload as well.Im told range should be between 35-45mm so im a bit out.I weigh 14st 3lb with out gear and say 15st with gear so well under what shock is capable of.Am I missing something?Thanks. 
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Hi Newbie.
Not many Fazers still running on OEM shock, paying to refurb one is wasted money bro.
You clearly need a much heavier spring if you plan to use the OEM shock, probly a 160N/mm at least for your weight.
Eg) I'm running a 195N/mm spring on my VFR800, to get adequate sag with me aboard, it's all about the linkage ratio & swingarm length.
What you've discovered is a well known fact that this OEM shock is well under sprung for anyone heavier than 11st in full gear.
Forget what you weigh, it's all about what you weigh kitted up & ready to ride.
Recommended shock setup specs in manuals is mostly wrong.
Bike sag is mostly irrelevant, most shocks have top out springs, so bouncing/measuring, lifting/measuring is pointless, this is a process to determine stiction within the shock.
Just focus on measuring from 2 fixed points, 1 on the swingarm & 1 on bike, (write it down).
Remove all damping adjustments.
Set spring preload to approx 3/4 of what's available.
Get fully kitted up & sit on bike in a close to your normal riding position as poss, balance on tip toes so all your weight is on the bike, get an assistant to measure the same 2 points (write it down).
Ideally you want to see no more than 30mm difference, this is to allow the wheel to drop into road deviations without smashing into the top out spring.
If you see just over 30mm but less than 40mm, max preload & repeat, if you're still seeing 30mm or more, you defo need a heavier spring, don't waste any time playing around with the shock, it's pointless until you fit a much heavier spring.
What you want is no more than 30mm sag in full gear with preload at 1/2 - 3/4 of what's available.
Then you'll need the rebound shim stack stiffening to control the heavier spring or it'll just blow thru the damping & potentially spit you off in a bumpy corner.
On FZS1000's you'll get what can feel like excess play in the shock linkage setup when bike's on centre stand & you pick up the swingarm via the rear wheel, this is normal even on new bearings you'll always feel some up & down play, often gets failed on Mot's, which is lack of experience on the testers part, mention it next time you get an Mot, most testers aren't bike techs & just don't know what is normal on some bikes.
If you suspect vertical play is excessive, get an assistant to work the rear wheel up & down, while you check for visible play in linkage assembly, ideally pull all shock linkages apart, pop out all dust seals, wash out all old grease & inspect needle bearing for damage or corrosion, replace any suspect bearing, check inner bearing bushings in bearings for excess play, repack all needle bearings with high load grease, don't use high temp bearing grease, it's the wrong grease.
https://www.lubricantsupplies.co.uk/prod...rease-390g
You'd be better off throwing money into a better spec shock.
Plenty to go at, but if on a budget you can use R6 or S1000RR
Both will work if you source the right length shock.
Most FZS1000's these days are running on an R6 shock with different length dog bones.
If you want your bike to ride & handle better, R6 shock is the way to go imho & many other members will echo this.
This is what the bike ought to have had from factory, but FZS1000 came out yrs before this R6 shock became available, there used to be plenty about brand new & fairly cheap R6 shocks from new bikes stripped for racing etc.
WTF Yamaha were thinking when they fitted this under sprung/damped lolloping bouncy under steering lump of a shock is beyond me.
If you decide to go the R6 shock route, I think all info is listed somewhere in "FAQ" section, sites' not easy to find specific things, search function is pretty crap.
Or if need be I can measure stuff from my bike, it's yrs since I did this shock & dog bone mod, so memory's a bit foggy on exact measurements.
Pm me if you need any measurements etc.
