Just been tinkering around my FZS600 this afternoon attempting to source the problem for the fuel gauge not working, and noticed that when the ignition is on without the engine running, as I click the pass switch the clocks switch off and then immediately come on again through their start up sequence.
Any body else have this problem?
Could it be related to the fuel gauge not working correctly (see other post further down), or indicative of a dodgy battery?
James
Is your battery fit and healthy? Could be on the way out and when you hit the pass button what power is left goes to the lights and takes away from the instruments. Just a thought.
As far as I know,
I only bought the bike a couple of weeks ago from a dealer, so it may not be.
with the ignition off, the battery reads 12v. With the ignition on (engine off) and put under load from the pass light switch, the battery gives a reading of 11v.
Is that normal or would it maybe need a charge/replacing?
Sounds a bit low. Put it on charge and see how you go. However a battery can still read good volts but still be knackered.
If you can try a battery you know is good that will help diagnose it.
On later fuel injected bikes with lots of electronics a bike wont start unless the battery is above a certain level as the ECU knows it needs a certain amount of juice to make everything work. That's why you can't start them by bumping either, the ECU wont allow it. However the Fazer is not fuel injected and doesn't have loads of electronics, but it could still be susceptible to a low battery. If it's the original battery and it's an old bike then it may be time for a new one. Just try and find out if it's OK first. If it's shot then try and get a free one out of the shop you bought it from.
A poor battery can cause quite a few problems.
Thanks for the advice,
12/11v with no load. With the starter motor it drops to 10v (multimeter doesn't do decimals unfortunately). As you said, revving the engine increases the voltage to 13 so charging system is working.
i'll give it an overnight charge, and if that doesn't work i'll have a word with the dealer i got it from
Sorry for what seems like daft questions, I haven't really had to do this before!! but thanks for all the brilliant advice
It's not a daft question if you don't know the answer.
I don't know the answer either, just throwing out some suggestions. Had a few dealings with batteries and R/R's as I have a 2006 Triumph Daytona 675 and batteries and R/R's are their biggest problems.
Cheers again!
After a charge, nothing seems to have improved. Same readings off the multimeter (drops to 10v with starter, 11v with pass light load).
I'll try hunting down a good battery then try again, unless theres any other ideas from people?
James
Pretty much sounds like the battery's had it.
As you've only just bought it you don't know how long the bike's been sitting around for?
Lead acid batteries prefer a constant regular charge, if it's been sitting idle for months, especially in cold weather, then they simply don't like it.
Personally i'd be looking at getting a Yuasa replacement if you need one.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Most dealers fit a new battery as a matter of course when you buy a bike from them.
I would push for a free new replacement from where you bought it from!
(01-07-13, 05:16 PM)clayt74 link Wrote: Most dealers fit a new battery as a matter of course when you buy a bike from them.
I would push for a free new replacement from where you bought it from!
Yeah, good shout......
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
![[Image: 118197.png]](http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-uk/118197.png)