Same thing that I found when I was presented with a set of the Yambits float valve units to fit for someone.
There's a short but distinct pause between the float tang touching the needle pin and when it compresses and the float drops again. Makes a difference, I believe, hence my preference for genuine Yamaha/Mikuni parts.
You should be OK with using the OE needles in the Yambits seats but if it were me, I'd refit the originals and chalk the Yambits buy down to experience.
One of my favourite sayings ... "Experience is what acquire get just after you needed it".
(27-10-19, 07:42 PM)Falcon 269 link Wrote: Same thing that I found when I was presented with a set of the Yambits float valve units to fit for someone.
There's a short but distinct pause between the float tang touching the needle pin and when it compresses and the float drops again. Makes a difference, I believe, hence my preference for genuine Yamaha/Mikuni parts.
You should be OK with using the OE needles in the Yambits seats but if it were me, I'd refit the originals and chalk the Yambits buy down to experience.
One of my favourite sayings ... "Experience is what acquire get just after you needed it".
Depressing but true.
I’ll have another try tomorrow.
I was reading the Yamaha workshop manual (better than the bloody Antiques Roadshow!) and came across the way they recommend checking the float height. I’ll stick with the method on Pats website but interesting none the less.
The measuring technique, ie with the end of a vernier gauge, is fine. It's the illustration that's misleading as it suggests you can do this with the carbs horizontal. To get the float to rest on the valve without depressing the spring-loaded pin requires the carbs to be tilted.
Rotate the carb bank so that the floats fall away completely from the valve, then slowly turn the carbs back until the float tangs just touch the pin. Go a few degrees further and you'll see the pin compress. Now, turn the carbs back the other way until just touching again and that's where you take the measurement. Takes a bit of practice so do this several times before making any adjustment to the float tang.
It only takes a very slight change in the angle of the float tang to achieve 14mm float height. About 0.5mm deflection or very close. If you have to bend the tang more than that, it's a good bet that you're not measuring with the float in the correct position.
The steel tang is quite springy which makes it tricky to get the correct amount of bend because the tang deflects back again. Often it works out easier to over-bend the tang and then ease it back up to where you want it.
I got a day pass yesterday for being a good boy so spent some quality time on the bike.
After much messing around with a vernier gauge I just couldn’t get repeatable measurements, so in the end bought a float height tool from flea bay for £15 which helped a lot.
So kit fitted, carbs back on, temporary fuel tank set up, Choke on, pressed the starter and up she comes!!! :rollin :rollin :rollin
Couldn’t quite believe it.
Still have to balance the carbs and set up the throttle sensor but everything seems to be working as it should.
Just to prove I can still be a muppet, despite my best efforts I managed to mix up the float bowls for cylinders 1&4.
So now I’ve got the custom look with both outside carb drain plugs being inboard. Not that I’m too bothered.
Really happy I’ve got this far and thanks again to Mike and Paul for their support through this.
I’ll be better at it next time....
nicely done feller!!! it'll all be worth it. Christ you went to town on them carbs mate, glad its all sorted. And I still make muppet mistakes all the time...more so as I'm getting older.
When I removed the inlet blanking rubbers to balance the carbs the stub came out of the inlet manifold!
Looks like it’s was originally glued in so I assume it’s ok to put some araldite on it?
Balanced the carbs and set up the TPS anyway.
Shame it’s still bloody raining or I’d have been out for a pootle.
Definitely better, and even the choke seems to have an effect.
(09-11-19, 07:41 PM)NitramA link Wrote: When I removed the inlet blanking rubbers to balance the carbs the stub came out of the inlet manifold!
Looks like it’s was originally glued in so I assume it’s ok to put some araldite on it?
Balanced the carbs and set up the TPS anyway.
Shame it’s still bloody raining or I’d have been out for a pootle.
Definitely better, and even the choke seems to have an effect.
old bikes are such fun aren't they :lol :lol hopefully its all sort4d now. Talking of muppet mistakes...my bro in laws xjr1300 had just that little bit more than mine off the line, I tried everything, including stripping the carbs and cleaning them thoroughly (twice), new inlet rubbers (36ys...the unrestricted fjr jobbies) new plugs, new airfilter, 4 degree ignition advancer. Only after doing all that did I think 'oh hang on...I wonder...' checked his gearbox sprocket and it was a 17t. mine was the stock 18. they both run identically now... :lol . all these years having bikes (passed me test in 77) and I still dont think to check the simple stuff first...
good luck with the bike buddy
Finally got round to riding the bloody thing (I’ve always been a bit slow!)
In my defence as well as the carbs being stripped and Ivanised, I’ve started at one end of the bike and serviced just about everything.
So it was with some trepidation I thought I’d better ride it before we’re all locked in.
First impressions were good; the fuel was a bit stale so whilst the choke worked (that’s a first) it was a bit fluffy low down until it warmed up.
Taking it easy for a couple of miles until the engine was warm, I then wound on the throttle in third (I think!) Jeezuz it took off like the proverbial cat. I got to 10k just hanging on. I had a quick look at the speedo and it did seem to be an awful long way round.
It was also still pulling....
I’ve been trundling around in a car for some time so I’m willing to believe I‘m a bit rusty when it comes to power, but the real revelation to me was the mid range pick up off a closed throttle. Before I’d really struggled on roundabouts with the trailing throttle to light throttle transition being really jerky. Not any more. Loverly!!
Ive just spent the rest of the time accelerating from 30 to 70 in out local lanes, just because if feels so responsive.
I think I feel less vibes too.
I did have a hankering for an OM10, but Whilst I’m sure it’s a fantastic bike I don’t think it’s worth the (at least) £8k extra it will cost me considering the mileage I cover.
Not that logic has ever stopped me from buying a bike if a fancy it :evil
OM10. Wtf!! Clearly my brain is more mush than I thought.
Fz10 of course, or maybe I really meant OW01,which would cost me considerable more than £8k :eek
FZ10/MT10 is a real beast, I love it, but hey, 15000 euro, pff that's a loudness of money, so a no no for me
Love my gen1 Fazer, after Ivanisinn and 4 degree advancer, I am in love with this bike. Ported intakes an moded air filter is next on my list
But then again I can see a 2016 MT10 with 2,800 miles for £8,300!
Maybe I could strike a deal to change for £5k?
Must stop watching YouTube videos of MT10s on one wheel at 80+ mph..... not that I can wheelie like that anyway!
I’m getting too old for this too, but if I remember not to look in the mirror I can still think I’m in my 30’s rather than twice that.
24-03-20, 03:58 PM (This post was last modified: 24-03-20, 04:05 PM by kebab19.)
Just to confirm that my own with Ivan's slip-on kit is very difficult to start, particularly in the colder months of the year. Seems to be a few people who've noticed this trait over the years. Think I followed the installation procedure to the letter, too... but will maybe take the carbs apart again and double check next winter
hopefully its all sort4d now. Talking of muppet mistakes...my bro in laws xjr1300 had just that little bit more than mine off the line, I tried everything, including stripping the carbs and cleaning them thoroughly (twice), new inlet rubbers (36ys...the unrestricted fjr jobbies) new plugs, new airfilter, 4 degree ignition advancer. Only after doing all that did I think 'oh hang on...I wonder...' checked his gearbox sprocket and it was a 17t. mine was the stock 18. they both run identically now... :lol . all these years having bikes (passed me test in 77) and I still dont think to check the simple stuff first...