(07-12-17, 11:42 PM)Fazerider link Wrote: (Apologies Disorderlypunk, I didn’t notice you’d already made the point about the drain hole.)
The innards of the silencer are mild steel and rot through at the base so the gases can blow out of the gap around the pipe where it enters the stainless can. You may be able to bodge it by squishing in as much high temperature silicone sealant as possible. I got a couple of extra years life out of mine that way.
Having said that, I doubt it’s the cause of your running issue which sounds much more like an electrical problem to me.
What should I look at electrically, like the ECU and fuses? The bike does want to start though indoors, but is very hesitant in the cold like it's stalling and putting out a couple of rpm. Wouldn't an electrical fault prevent bump starts too?
Living life a corner at a time~
(08-12-17, 01:31 PM)Kura link Wrote: [quote author=Fazerider link=topic=23546.msg272153#msg272153 date=1512686536]
(Apologies Disorderlypunk, I didn’t notice you’d already made the point about the drain hole.)
The innards of the silencer are mild steel and rot through at the base so the gases can blow out of the gap around the pipe where it enters the stainless can. You may be able to bodge it by squishing in as much high temperature silicone sealant as possible. I got a couple of extra years life out of mine that way.
Having said that, I doubt it’s the cause of your running issue which sounds much more like an electrical problem to me.
What should I look at electrically, like the ECU and fuses? The bike does want to start though indoors, but is very hesitant in the cold like it's stalling and putting out a couple of rpm. Wouldn't an electrical fault prevent bump starts too?
[/quote]
If you can't wait until tomorrow, and you have time on your hands, why not remove the air filter and see if it all springs to life?
I would adjust the carb screws back to standard settings first.
Don't ride without it in as you will probably cause further issues.
Worth checking the TPS and seeing if that's all sweet and in the correct position as well if you're looking for electrical issues, 'cos a faulty unit can play havoc.
As mentioned before, you need to do things one at a time, and right now I would suggest not doing anything until the new air filter is in, 'cos that could be the heart of the problem.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
08-12-17, 01:57 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-12-17, 01:59 PM by Kura.)
Well my new filter arrives tomorrow and I will fit that first see how things go before checking other things. I have a Haynes workshop manual so will reference that when checking the electrical stuff. You might be right about the air filter being the source, I bought a new one couple of weeks ago a DNA filter but didn't realise it was a high performance one something like 60% more air intake and with the bike being restricted it didn't like it too well lots of lurching and exhaust popping I then removed that and put the old air filter back in when I got a new battery a few days ago and that's when my starting/running problems came back the old battery was basically dead so that was the reason then, but with me having put the old air filter back in I've likely reintroduced the same problem. I changed plugs/carb rubbers and air filter all at once and it ran great but with the minor lurches and bad fuel/air ratio. Will take your advice on focusing 1 thing at a time.
*EDIT: It's a stock air filter I've bought this time
Living life a corner at a time~
(08-12-17, 01:57 PM)Kura link Wrote: Well my new filter arrives tomorrow and I will fit that first see how things go before checking other things. I have a Haynes workshop manual so will reference that when checking the electrical stuff. You might be right about the air filter being the source, I bought a new one couple of weeks ago a DNA filter but didn't realise it was a high performance one something like 60% more air intake and with the bike being restricted it didn't like it too well lots of lurching and exhaust popping I then removed that and put the old air filter back in when I got a new battery a few days ago and that's when my starting/running problems came back the old battery was basically dead so that was the reason then, but with me having put the old air filter back in I've likely reintroduced the same problem. I changed plugs/carb rubbers and air filter all at once and it ran great but with the minor lurches and bad fuel/air ratio. Will take your advice on focusing 1 thing at a time.
*EDIT: It's a stock air filter I've bought this time
Once the filter is in place I would recommend you put the carb screws back to standard, I believe they're 2.5 turns out.
You need to start in the right place otherwise you'll get into a bit of a mess.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Always best to try the cheapest options first, you say you have new spark plugs, I'm willing to bet it's the spark plug caps, by the way this sorted my bike out which was bad, and worse when it had rained. It now runs sweet.
(08-12-17, 04:42 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=Kura link=topic=23546.msg272183#msg272183 date=1512737837]
Well my new filter arrives tomorrow and I will fit that first see how things go before checking other things. I have a Haynes workshop manual so will reference that when checking the electrical stuff. You might be right about the air filter being the source, I bought a new one couple of weeks ago a DNA filter but didn't realise it was a high performance one something like 60% more air intake and with the bike being restricted it didn't like it too well lots of lurching and exhaust popping I then removed that and put the old air filter back in when I got a new battery a few days ago and that's when my starting/running problems came back the old battery was basically dead so that was the reason then, but with me having put the old air filter back in I've likely reintroduced the same problem. I changed plugs/carb rubbers and air filter all at once and it ran great but with the minor lurches and bad fuel/air ratio. Will take your advice on focusing 1 thing at a time.
*EDIT: It's a stock air filter I've bought this time
Once the filter is in place I would recommend you put the carb screws back to standard, I believe they're 2.5 turns out.
You need to start in the right place otherwise you'll get into a bit of a mess.
[/quote]
Its a 00-01 model 2 turns out
(09-12-17, 12:44 AM)unfazed link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=23546.msg272207#msg272207 date=1512747770]
[quote author=Kura link=topic=23546.msg272183#msg272183 date=1512737837]
Well my new filter arrives tomorrow and I will fit that first see how things go before checking other things. I have a Haynes workshop manual so will reference that when checking the electrical stuff. You might be right about the air filter being the source, I bought a new one couple of weeks ago a DNA filter but didn't realise it was a high performance one something like 60% more air intake and with the bike being restricted it didn't like it too well lots of lurching and exhaust popping I then removed that and put the old air filter back in when I got a new battery a few days ago and that's when my starting/running problems came back the old battery was basically dead so that was the reason then, but with me having put the old air filter back in I've likely reintroduced the same problem. I changed plugs/carb rubbers and air filter all at once and it ran great but with the minor lurches and bad fuel/air ratio. Will take your advice on focusing 1 thing at a time.
*EDIT: It's a stock air filter I've bought this time
Once the filter is in place I would recommend you put the carb screws back to standard, I believe they're 2.5 turns out.
You need to start in the right place otherwise you'll get into a bit of a mess.
[/quote]
Its a 00-01 model 2 turns out
[/quote]
My bad, thank you for correcting me :thumbup
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Well that's the new air filter put in, and the bike started up right away with just the button and no throttle after sitting for a week. There is too much snow and ice for me to take it a run to see if it's running right but at least my starting issue is solved, as for the idling I've had to set it a couple o' hundred rpm above standard to get it sitting smoothly the standard is 1150-1250 RPM I have it sitting around 1400-1500 I think it could be the restrictions causing the idle issue. I'll come back with updates when I've had it proper run once the weather improves, cheers for all your advice and have a good Christmas/New years when it arrives o/
Living life a corner at a time~
You can forget about the restrictors, as long as they're in right they don't affect idle. If you've been adjusting the mixture screws they're probably off and the carbs probably need a balance.
(09-12-17, 05:23 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: You can forget about the restrictors, as long as they're in right they don't affect idle. If you've been adjusting the mixture screws they're probably off and the carbs probably need a balance.
I see, once the plates are out I'll have the carbs balanced.
Living life a corner at a time~
|
