Engine knocking noise at 4000-4500 RPM only Fazer 600

[kutce]

[quote author=kutce link=topic=28051.msg334188#msg334188 date=1719215763]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=28051.msg334186#msg334186 date=1719212277]
You can lean the bike on the side stand only to take the clutch cover off, but do not even think about putting the bike upright for any reason once it's off And take the engine out of neutral before doing it.

I am not sure about what you mean?
Out the engine in gear, lean teh bike and take off the clutch cover?
Why put it in gear? Is it because its helpful if taking out the clutch plates, to stop it from spinning?




Thank you everyone for the help and information.
[/quote]


It's something you learn when you do it yourself, ie:me.


The centre stand is just for checking the oil level, at any normal time, simple as that.


On the side stand though the oil will lean to the left meaning you can have a look at the plates without any need to remove the oil, BUT, as i found out the hard way, as you mentioned everything tends to spin if you need to replace the plates so what you don't do is raise the bike upwards to put it in gear, as guess what.....the oil tends to all fall out on the floor!!!


Lesson learned  :lol 

[size=1em]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQejoxdatGM[/size]
[/quote]
Hahaha I see.
I took your advice and checked all


Here is what was fixed
-Clutch springs are too short, they are old. Still normal operation
-Clutch plates are almost worn out
-Clutch cover bearing worn out
-Changed chain
-Changed rear sprocket
- Changed front sprocket
-Changed front sprocket nut
-Changed oil
-Changed oil filter
- Changed air filter
Renewing the drivetrain fixed the knocking. Its buttery smooth now.


The bike is also lowered, smh, so I ordered 2nd hand  linkage, which was very cheap.


Only thing left is navigation or phone mount.
What do you guys use? I am not so keen on uaing my phone because I want to travel to different countries and dont want to destroy my mobile data usage.
I also dont want to cover the tachoneter/speedometer because it looks really cool.


Im happy theres no knocking anymore. Theres random buzzing at higher rpms but i think thats normal.
It sounds like bzzzzzzzzzz starting at 6000 rpm.

[unfazed]

When you say clutch cover bearing, I presume you meant the Front Sprocket cover bearing?  Plenty of good quality covers with  bearing in good condition. A forgotten  bearing in terms of maintenance and never greased.

[fazersharp]

Hurah, so it was a tight spot on the chain by the sound of it. Now the old one is off it should be easier to find it.

[darrsi]

You can lean the bike on the side stand only to take the clutch cover off, but do not even think about putting the bike upright for any reason once it's off And take the engine out of neutral before doing it.

I am not sure about what you mean?
Out the engine in gear, lean teh bike and take off the clutch cover?
Why put it in gear? Is it because its helpful if taking out the clutch plates, to stop it from spinning?




Thank you everyone for the help and information.

It's something you learn when you do it yourself, ie:me.


The centre stand is just for checking the oil level, at any normal time, simple as that.


On the side stand though the oil will lean to the left meaning you can have a look at the plates without any need to remove the oil, BUT, as i found out the hard way, as you mentioned everything tends to spin if you need to replace the plates so what you don't do is raise the bike upwards to put it in gear, as guess what.....the oil tends to all fall out on the floor!!!


Lesson learned  :lol 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQejoxdatGM

Hahaha I see.
I took your advice and checked all


Here is what was fixed
-Clutch springs are too short, they are old. Still normal operation
-Clutch plates are almost worn out
-Clutch cover bearing worn out
-Changed chain
-Changed rear sprocket
- Changed front sprocket
-Changed front sprocket nut
-Changed oil
-Changed oil filter
- Changed air filter
Renewing the drivetrain fixed the knocking. Its buttery smooth now.


The bike is also lowered, smh, so I ordered 2nd hand  linkage, which was very cheap.


Only thing left is navigation or phone mount.
What do you guys use? I am not so keen on uaing my phone because I want to travel to different countries and dont want to destroy my mobile data usage.
I also dont want to cover the tachoneter/speedometer because it looks really cool.


Im happy theres no knocking anymore. Theres random buzzing at higher rpms but i think thats normal.
It sounds like bzzzzzzzzzz starting at 6000 rpm.

Possibly lower as it's been a short while now, but when you replace the chain, especially with a heavier duty one, it can rub on the plastic chain guide and tear a slightly new path into it whilst settling down, even more so if the rear wheel alignment has been changed even by the smallest amount when tightening or loosening the chain to get the correct tension. It's normal and will soon go away once the chain is used against the guide for a while.
The main trick for making it a very long lasting chain is to look after it, keeping it clean and well lubricated. If you don't then even a new chain can wear unusually quickly in comparison.
I used to used all the spray lubes for many years, then thought i'd try something different so bought some 80w90 gear oil, which is a heavier duty oil, and the difference has been great. Like anything it has it's mainly pro's, and cons though.
I use a paint brush  with a small amount of oil in and an old small bucket for the oil, but you only need a bit, and brush the oil onto the chain in about 2 mins whilst on the centre stand, it's that easy. What you get for that is a chain that always looks like new, doesn't get clogged up at all, as it seems to reject dirt from gripping it, and every link moves totally freely. Add to that the brush gets the oil in very part of the chain very efficiently once you get the hang of it.
The only downsides are you will get the odd drip if you oil it then put the bike away, although this can be solved with newspaper or better still an old cardboard box flattened out to park the bike on. You can take excess off with a rag first to make it less likely to drip, but the best option is to oil it before going out on the bike, so any excess can fly off during riding. I'm not talking about lots of oil just a few drops, and it's the other side to the brake so no problems there either. I've been using this method for years, and having the links always moving freely, plus no need at all to clean the chain either, is very much appealing. How often is all dependant on the weather, it is generally weatherproof for a while, but obviously if you've been through a thunderstorm on a motorway then common sense suggests a quick 2 minutes of your time to add another coat of oil wouldn't go amiss. But in general the combination of every nook and cranny of the chain getting oiled and the links moving nice and freely undoubtedly puts a lot of extra miles onto the life of it.