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FZ6 won't start
#21
(07-07-20, 09:40 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: Yes, but unless you connect all 4 it wont be fuse protected. 

Literally all I'd do is bridge it for a couple of seconds to see if that gets the starter motor to turn.

Quote:Have you checked the engine stop switch, grounded they give error code 12. 

You mean the kill switch by the throttle?

I've not seen that mentioned anywhere else in my searches, but I can check it, however, as mentioned, as the bike will bump start, I don't think that's the problem.

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#22
(07-07-20, 09:57 AM)Grahamm link Wrote: Literally all I'd do is bridge it for a couple of seconds to see if that gets the starter motor to turn.


Yes, or run a lead from the battery + and earth out the - on the starter.  But you can do it by checking resistance etc look on page 8.15 onward's safer then sort circuiting. 

Quote:You mean the kill switch by the throttle?

I've not seen that mentioned anywhere else in my searches, but I can check it, however, as mentioned, as the bike will bump start, I don't think that's the problem.

Electrics on bikes are often linked in ways not detailed in the manual and error codes are notorious, reading them isn't always straight forward.  It's also possible you've got a intermittent crank sensor and/or connection, could be pickup rota, wet/corroded ECU connector or blown ECU, the later two are unlikely as you can bump start.   
Later
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#23
(07-07-20, 10:09 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: Electrics on bikes are often linked in ways not detailed in the manual and error codes are notorious, reading them isn't always straight forward.

Yep, that's why I wanted to check the battery :thumbup

Quote:It's also possible you've got a intermittent crank sensor and/or connection, could be pickup rota, wet/corroded ECU connector or blown ECU, the later two are unlikely as you can bump start.   

I did do the 4 degree ignition advancer mod just a few days ago, however it started and ran ok with that.

I took the Timing Rotor cover off again when I had this problem, but there's nothing loose or damaged in there.

I've even tried turning the engine with the Timing Rotor bolt a couple of turns clockwise (NOT anti-clockwise!!) to see if it was the sensor on the crankshaft itself, but that didn't seem to be the issue.

I've also checked the resistance of the Crankshaft Position Sensor (which was in spec) and taken off the ECU connector and checked for continuity on the CPS wires which are ok and sprayed some WD40 contact cleaner into the ECU plug and connectors.

All of this seemed fine and I could bump start it after.

I'm going to try shorting the starter terminals and see what happens.

I've also seen a video which suggests that giving the starter motor a couple of (light!) taps with a hammer might help jolt something loose!
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#24
(07-07-20, 10:35 AM)Grahamm link Wrote: I've also seen a video which suggests that giving the starter motor a couple of (light!) taps with a hammer might help jolt something loose!

Percussive maintenance is always good :pokefun

Seriously though, undo the big lead from the starter motor and see if you get 12v on that when you press the start button. If not, bashing the starter motor will not give you anything. If you do get 12v, you know the relay etc is good. If not, its time to trace back to the relay and check the fuses there, the output side, the input side and then the switch control to see where the failure is.
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
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#25
(07-07-20, 12:00 PM)BBROWN1664 link Wrote: [quote author=Grahamm link=topic=26309.msg317518#msg317518 date=1594114505]
I've also seen a video which suggests that giving the starter motor a couple of (light!) taps with a hammer might help jolt something loose!

Percussive maintenance is always good :pokefun [/quote]

First Rule of Engineering: If it doesn't work, you didn't use a big enough hammer! Big Grin

Quote:Seriously though, undo the big lead from the starter motor and see if you get 12v on that when you press the start button. If not, bashing the starter motor will not give you anything. If you do get 12v, you know the relay etc is good. If not, its time to trace back to the relay and check the fuses there, the output side, the input side and then the switch control to see where the failure is.

The problem at the moment is I'm still getting that damn Error Code 12 which means the ECU won't even let the power through.

I don't want to keep having to bump start it...!
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#26
(07-07-20, 02:03 AM)Grahamm link Wrote: [quote author=celticbiker link=topic=26309.msg317485#msg317485 date=1594069884]
Quick way to test the relay/starter quandary is to bridge the large terminals on the relay (I use a screwdriver or similar)
Turn on the ignition, short the relay. If it turns it's the relay if it doesn't it's the starter but most likely will be the relay.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm not quite sure how to "bridge the large terminals on the relay"

Do I need to unplug the connector? Displace the relay?

If you could give some more details (or pics) I'd be very grateful :thumbup
ADDENDUM I found the picture below, but there seem to be four terminals all of which appear to be the same size!
So which should I short? The top ones? The bottom ones? Left or Right Side...?!
[/quote]
The ones that the heavy cables are connected to. Basically bypassing the relay.
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#27
(09-07-20, 08:47 PM)celticbiker link Wrote: The ones that the heavy cables are connected to. Basically bypassing the relay.

Thanks :thumbup

If you look at the "What did you do with your Fazer" topic, I managed to find the right ones and got it to start that way, although it still wouldn't start on the button...
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#28
There's your answer then. Just replace the relay, about sick squid and an hours work including cake and coffee.
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#29
(10-07-20, 12:03 AM)celticbiker link Wrote: There's your answer then. Just replace the relay, about sick squid and an hours work including cake and coffee.

Possibly.

I do have a new battery and I'd like to check whether the relay will "click" as it's supposed to when power is applied to it.

But first I'd need to borrow a set of jump leads...
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#30
Interestingly, I've just searched for FZ6 starter relay and found this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGi7yjGfNVE

It looks like he's having exactly the same problem as me: Error 12 occasionally, looks like the Check Engine and ABS warning lights flashing when he presses the starter.

Sod it, I've found one on eBay that's £9 plus next day delivery, so I might as well give it a go...
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#31
(07-07-20, 09:17 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: [quote author=Grahamm link=topic=26309.msg317504#msg317504 date=1594109602]
Errm, that's not my starter relay, it's a picture I found online...!

:rolleyes

Check yours anyway they've have a habit of corroding and they don't always have rusty terminals.
[/quote]

See above and I've replied to your other thread in General section  Wink Smile
Later
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#32
I really don't want to have to short circuit the start relay again, but it was the only way to check out the starter motor.

Fingers crossed the new relay will turn up tomorrow, so I can just swap it over...

At least my new mirror arrived today.

Hopefully also the new side stand will turn up, otherwise I'm going to have to try to bodge a fix with superglue and baking soda which will hopefully hold it enough for me to get to the event in Brighton on Sunday and then back.
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#33
To round this thread off...

The new Starter Relay arrived on Saturday and (after a lot of cursing and swearing at the connector on the top which would not come loose!) I managed to swap it over and, Glory Be! the bike started on the button Smile

So if you get an Error Code 12 on the instruments, but the resistance on the Crank Position Sensor is good and the continuity between the CPS and the ECU is fine (IIRC it was pins 6 and 9 on the top row of the ECU connector, counting from the left side of the bike) and your clutch switch, neutral switch and side stand switches are all ok, try bump starting the bike or shorting across the B and M terminals at the bottom of the starter relay.

If it fires up ok like that, then it may well be the Start Relay is knackered.

It's dead easy to fix (if you can get the connector to the loom to come off!), just disconnect the negative battery terminal, then lift the relay off its mount, unscrew the connector to the starter motor and the positive battery terminal, put the new relay in and connect back up (always do the Negative terminal LAST!) and you should be good to go :thumbup
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