Please confirm my chain+sprocket fit guide

[midden]

I have no idea about this topic
which is why I 'started the debate' ...
Which is why I was asking for help... Not a debate

Well there's a dodgy link, or is it a contradiction.
Discuss

[darrsi]

[quote author=keratos link=topic=14069.msg161345#msg161345 date=1407310699]
I have no idea about this topic
which is why I 'started the debate' ...
Which is why I was asking for help... Not a debate

Well there's a dodgy link, or is it a contradiction.
Discuss
[/quote]


Been done before, just go for the superior option.......always!

[His Dudeness]

You seem to have a gift of rubbing people up the wrong way Keratos :lol Rivets have less chance of falling off so I use rivets. That's seems to be the general consensus among most people. I've used clips on a 125 but that's it no way I'd use one on a 600. It's best practice to replace the seals but you don't have to. Replace them if they look worn or damaged or if there's dirt or rust around the bearing. If the bearings look clean then the seals should be ok to use again. If you google motorbike rear wheel bearing replacement you should get a step by step way to do it. All motorbike wheel bearing replacements are basically the same. There'll be two bearings and a spacer between them. You'll need to get a drift and catch the edge of the bearing and knock it out. Then the spacer will come out. Then knock the other side out. When you're installing the new bearings make sure you seat them with something that's the same size as the outer part of the bearing and don't hit the inner race or you'll damage the bearing. Also be careful not to push the bearing in too far or it will lock up and you won't be able to turn it. Again with replacing the chain just google motorbike chain replacement and they're all basically the same. If you've got a link to the tool you bought put it up and someone will explain how to use it. RE the instruction that said to" join the old chain to the new". That join is just a temporary join. You could use a bit of string if you wanted. It's just to get the new chain around the sprockets. You don't have to do it if you don't want to. You can just break the old chain off and carefully feed the new one around by hand.

Ah I can see the pictures of the tool now. Basically there are pins and there are backing plates. Some of the pins are for pushing out the old rivet and some are for riveting the new link. You need to select the correct diameter pin for the chain you're using so that the pin can pass through the hole in the chain. With the backing plates some have holes in them to allow the old rivet to be pushed out and some are solid to allow you to rivet the new link. Have a look at these instructions they're pretty comprehensive http://www.motionpro.com/images/document...8-0058.pdf

[keratos]

You seem to have a gift of rubbing people up the wrong way Keratos :lol Rivets have less chance of falling off so I use rivets. That's seems to be the general consensus among most people. I've used clips on a 125 but that's it no way I'd use one on a 600. It's best practice to replace the seals but you don't have to. Replace them if they look worn or damaged or if there's dirt or rust around the bearing. If the bearings look clean then the seals should be ok to use again. If you google motorbike rear wheel bearing replacement you should get a step by step way to do it. All motorbike wheel bearing replacements are basically the same. There'll be two bearings and a spacer between them. You'll need to get a drift and catch the edge of the bearing and knock it out. Then the spacer will come out. Then knock the other side out. When you're installing the new bearings make sure you seat them with something that's the same size as the outer part of the bearing and don't hit the inner race or you'll damage the bearing. Also be careful not to push the bearing in too far or it will lock up and you won't be able to turn it. Again with replacing the chain just google motorbike chain replacement and they're all basically the same. If you've got a link to the tool you bought put it up and someone will explain how to use it. RE the instruction that said to" join the old chain to the new". That join is just a temporary join. You could use a bit of string if you wanted. It's just to get the new chain around the sprockets. You don't have to do it if you don't want to. You can just break the old chain off and carefully feed the new one around by hand.

Ah I can see the pictures of the tool now. Basically there are pins and there are backing plates. Some of the pins are for pushing out the old rivet and some are for riveting the new link. You need to select the correct diameter pin for the chain you're using so that the pin can pass through the hole in the chain. With the backing plates some have holes in them to allow the old rivet to be pushed out and some are solid to allow you to rivet the new link. Have a look at these instructions they're pretty comprehensive http://www.motionpro.com/images/document...8-0058.pdf

Now that type of response is all I was asking for. Absolutely perfect. That's all I was asking for.
I seem to have a gift of triggering comments that rub me up the wrong way ... Not always but sometimes., and not from all members, sorry! I'm only asking for help that I can understand through a rationale. Just because soneonbe says 'do it' doesn't mean I follow because I like to understand a rationale as to why. I feel that's important on a forum as it in life generally. Just my own mindset. I don't mean to rub people up and I value all comments so I will think about how I can express my requests so that people understand better and do not feel rubbed up. Thank you for bringing this to my attention, and thank you one again for that wonderful insightful post which helps me to comprehend the procedure AND the supporting related rationale

[keratos]

sorry Dudeness - just realised the link you provided. Great. not the same device but same sort of principles and feel ok about doing the job.
Also, bearings, I suspect price/quality vary and steer clear of eBay ?? so are these ok: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_6...ust_seals/
What can I use as a drift? socket ? or something better that people use when DIYing ?

[His Dudeness]

I used koyo bearings. That's what the original ones are but if you stick to any of the big brands like skf, fag etc they will be very good quality. The right size socket will do the job nicely. Tap them in evenly and keep checking that they still rotate freely.

[keratos]

ordered the parts inc. the upgraded nut+washer kit from wemoto where I got the sprocket kit from. just got to get some loctite and I'm ready for a chain, sprocket and bearing  replacement. I may take vid or pics  and upload if its any use - I haven't done this for quite some years and forgot most of what I know!
Cheers for the tips

[keratos]

Thanks to everyone; I've edited the original post - is it about right now? any suggestions/corrections?
Cheers

[darrsi]

Thanks to everyone; I've edited the original post - is it about right now? any suggestions/corrections?
Cheers

I think you should be a tester for the split link, so we can actually have some proof at how good or bad they are.  :lol

[keratos]

[quote author=keratos link=topic=14069.msg161939#msg161939 date=1407572635]
Thanks to everyone; I've edited the original post - is it about right now? any suggestions/corrections?
Cheers

I think you should be a tester for the split link, so we can actually have some proof at how good or bad they are.  :lol
[/quote]

:rollin

Point taken

Nope, me thinks me trusts foccers  :lol

This may be bread and butter to you guys, but to someone who used to take things apart and always be left with a few items after I had 'reassembled'... This is slightly daunting  :b

[papercutout]

[quote author=keratos link=topic=14069.msg161939#msg161939 date=1407572635]
Thanks to everyone; I've edited the original post - is it about right now? any suggestions/corrections?
Cheers

I think you should be a tester for the split link, so we can actually have some proof at how good or bad they are.  :lol
[/quote]


Don't worry, I'm doing that job already, Keratos, carry on getting yourself a rivet link!


I've already mangled my left leg once before, what more could a chain do to it? (I know the answer is - destroy it so much it needs to be amputated, but I'll stick with the split link right now, I'm sure it's strong enough to cope for a couple of months, until I can afford 'luxuries'.)

[Timbollew]

I'd say you wanna loosen the front sprocket nut with the rear wheel still on either get a friend to keep back brake on or a piece of wood through the wheel to stop it turning. DON'T put bike in gear and use the engine to sto stop the sprocket turning!
I used a cheapo riveter no problems at all, I did grind off the pins though to remove the old chain otherwise the riveters tend to break apparently.
Before you chuck your old chain loop it over the sprocket block the wheel with wood again and that way you can tighten the front sprocket up to torque without putting strain on your new chain.
This is what I did anyway and don't be shy with the grease they give you.