Engine Rebuild

[Dead Eye]

Ah, that makes a bit more sense

I have just bought one of those cheaper kits as the valves really do need a clean... lots of crap has fallen in to the intake especially

What exactly is required for grinding the valves? I was potentially just going to remove them, tidy them up, then replace

[limax2]

Grinding the valves in is really just a case of cleaning up the seating faces to get a perfect seal. All you need is a small tin of grinding paste, sometimes comes with both fine and course paste, and a valve grinding tool which is a piece of round wood with a rubber sucker on the end. You will probably only need to use the fine paste. Make sure you clean it all off after and don't get it anywhere else. You should end up with a nice smooth matt finish all round the valve and seating faces.

[red98]

well worded LIMAX2.......i`ll post some pictures as soon as i prise the laptop from my sons hands  :rolleyes

[limax2]

Further thoughts on the valves. The exhaust valves on the 600 are only 21mm dia so the sucker on the stick needs to be no bigger than about 19mm dia. Plenty on e-bay but any half decent car accessary shop will have the tool and paste for less than the postage cost on e-bay. Also only use the fine paste and don't over do it, just enough to see a smooth even surface.  Maybe 10-30 seconds rather than minutes of lapping.  In theory it can close up the valve clearance, but you shouldn't be removing a measurable amount of metal anyway.
There is an opinion that it's best to leave them alone if they seal and look o.k., but I faviour a quick fine lapping if the heads off.

[red98]

two pictures to show the tooling and the grinding paste

[red98]

whoops.......that was meant to be two different pictures  :o  second one a close up of the grinding paste but i think you can make out the wording on it.......two grades in one tin,course one end fine the other,i used the compressor on the left which is for ohc engines,i ground down the top clamp to fit inside the head.it worked well.the sucker stick has two sizes of sucker and you can just about get away with the smaller one.
LIMAX2, sounds like you`ve done this job a few times before 

looking through my "stuttering" thread i came across some before and after pictures of my head....page 4,reply 418 + 490..

[Dead Eye]

Thanks limax2 and red

I actually bought some of the Chemito stuff and the sucker from eBay earlier today as it wasn't overly expensive. Some of the valves look a little stuck at the moment and I wouldn't be surprised if they need a little bit of grinding. Through experience I know to take things easy instead of using brute force all the time

I'll keep you informed with some photos as well ^^ Need to sand back and re-spray the external of the head as well as the the rest of the block

I reckon the hardest part will be dealing with the timings when re-assembling and I'm leaning towards replacing the cam chain since I have the engine in so many pieces already, but they aren't cheap!

[limax2]

LIMAX2, sounds like you`ve done this job a few times before   

Plenty of times on BSA's, Triumph's and Norton's but as it happens not on my Fazer. It's so reliable all I can do is add bits on and polish it.  .

[red98]

sounds like you have everything on order now  .....a top tip that might help,before you use the valve compressor,find a socket slightly smaller than the valve spring , position on top of the spring and bounce a hammer off it.not hard just enough to loosen the spring on the seat,you can then compress the spring smoothly without any jolts and risk loosing the collets 

[Dead Eye]

Hopefully it will all make more sense as I get round to it - I've read the procedure in the Haynes several times but I'm still learning about some of the more interesting parts of an engines internals Here's to hoping I don't break anything

[Dead Eye]

Well I finally had some free time to get out and do some more fettling with the engine. On today's agenda was removing all of the valves and trying to clean them up a bit. Needless to say but a picture shows a thousand words - and these pictures show the state of the intake ports and the poor valves...

[smg id=843 type=preview align=center caption="Engine Rebuild"]

[smg id=844 type=preview align=center caption="Engine Rebuild"]

[smg id=845 type=preview align=center caption="Engine Rebuild"]

[smg id=846 type=preview align=center caption="Engine Rebuild"]


I've given the head a good clean out and the ports are looking much tidier. However, does anyone have any advice on what to use to clean the valves? A lot of the crap on them is quite caked on - the carbs were off during the fire so everything just poured into the intake ports and down on to the valves

I tried looking to see if new valves can be purchased - doesn't look like it as they weren't even on the AJ Sutton website. I guess ideally they shouldn't be replaced, it was just a precautionary measure to check. Need to scrape off all the crap off the head and respray it which might be done reasonably soon.

Also, is there any sort of cleaner that I should avoid when dealing with the cylinders to prevent damaging the cylinder wall? Need to buy piston rings really, but they are quite expensive

[red98]

to clean the valves i scrape off the worse with a stanley knifeblade and then put it in my drill and use a scotch bright pad or if really bad a wire brush....works a treat......while you have them out check to see if there straight by rolling the stem on a piece of glass or simular 

[kitcrazy]

This is great suff guys.would love to have the know how to do something like this.Keep up the good work.

[Dead Eye]

I got stopped in my tracks for not having a lapping tool of the correct size. Finally got one so should be ready to grind the valves and get them all sorted. I cleaned up the intake and exhaust ports but there is still a bit of crap in the intake ones so I'm thinking a bit of fine wet & dry will do the trick

After that, it will be time to move down the engine and clean up the cylinder block. It's in mostly good condition, so I don't expect it will take long. After that, its on to the pistons. I'm really uncertain as to whether to replace the piston rings or not. On the one hand, it would make sense to do them whilst it's all apart, but on the other, they are insanely expensive at £40-50 a piston