I have a 98-00 Haynes manual, bike however is 02 model, anyone know if there were any significant mechanical upgrades to warrant buying manual to cover 02 

Hi,


I am Lauri, from Oxfordshire.
Bought a 2001 boxeye about a week ago. Still getting use to it, rode GS500 before so a serious move up in power and speed department
first thing i did was to change the exhaust back to original as was way too loud with DanMoto one. Photo attached.


Safe riding
L.


[size=78%] [/size]

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Now SOLD.
[size=1em]Yamaha Fazer FZS600 2003, in deep metallic purplish blue - the coolest colour of Fazer![/size]

[size=1em]Great all round bike, as commuting hack, small tourer or fun blast at weekends. Showing some age, but maintained to a very high standard with all the big service items sorted. It has had a couple of drops but only received cosmetic damage, the majority of which has been repaired to a high standard.[/size]

[size=1em]I’m second owner of bike, had it just over 6 years, used it as my daily commute, fun weekend bike, longer distance touring and two-up pillion riding. I’ve kept it in tip-top shape and well maintained throughout, on average putting 8-10k a year on it.[/size]

[size=1em]Done 62866 miles (note clocks had to be replaced due to fuel gauge failing, new set show 6k less i.e. 56866). Unlikely to change, as I’ve a new bike for commuting now.[/size]

[size=1em]600cc inline 4 giving 95 bhp. Averages 50mpg ish, with a 200-230 mile range before fuel light comes on![/size]
[size=1em]Note the 2002-2003 FZS600’s have many advantages over older Fazers: large 21 litre tank, better mirrors (from FZS1000), better looking Fox-eye fairing, better headlights, preload adjustment on forks, better pillion pegs and grab handle and clocks with a clock!.[/size]

[size=1em]The good:[/size]
[size=1em]Genuine Yamaha double bubble screen[/size]
[size=1em]Rear hugger, and front fender extender fitted.[/size]
[size=1em]Genuine Yamaha crash bars.[/size]
[size=1em]Motad stainless steel downpipes fitted Oct 2013.[/size]
[size=1em]Scorpion Titanium exhaust.[/size]
[size=1em]Meta M357T alarm/immobiliser fitted. Replaced in July 2013, as internal battery of unit has ~10 year lifespan before it fails. Has worked faultlessly otherwise.[/size]
[size=1em]Hagan rear shock fitted Feb 2015[/size]
[size=1em]Fazer 1000 ‘blue spot’ rear brake caliper (stock caliper prone to seizing)[/size]
[size=1em]Hel braided brake lines front/back.[/size]
[size=1em]New Brembo rear disc and rear wheel bearings fitted Aug 2017.[/size]
[size=1em]Front wheel bearing replaced Sept 2017. Sprocket carrier bearing replaced Feb 2015.[/size]
[size=1em]DID chain sprockets fitted Sept 2017, front sprocket nut replaced as per recall.[/size]
[size=1em]Pair of Metzeler M7RR tyres fitted in Aug 2018 (only done ~1000 miles)[/size]
[size=1em]Stebal Nautilus air horn fitted, correctly with relay/fuse etc.[/size]
[size=1em]Re-upholstered seat, slightly raised, increased hump, more comfort. Original supplied too.[/size]
[size=1em]Just had 6k service (oil, filters, spark plugs, carbs balanced etc).[/size]
[size=1em]NGK spark plug caps fitted 2017.[/size]
[size=1em]K&N air filter - which suits well as runs bit rich from stock. [/size]
[size=1em]Coolant system serviced October 2018, O-Ring on thermostat replaced (had small drip leak).[/size]
[size=1em]Monokey Givi rack fitted.[/size]
[size=1em]Renthal bars fitted.[/size]
[size=1em]New clutch fitted Jun 2017, genuine Yamaha friction, steel plates, springs, etc (tried EBC plates briefly before, but were crap). New clutch cable and lever fitted too.[/size]
[size=1em]New Yusasa battery fitted in Oct 2015[/size]
[size=1em]Forks seals/oil replaced Mar 2015, with genuine seals & dust covers etc. Still good.[/size]
[size=1em]Front fairing replaced (with genuine Yamaha part) recently after an incident in 2017, so in spotless condition.[/size]
[size=1em]USB socket fitted on dash (auto cuts out when battery voltage drops when engine is off).[/size]
[size=1em]Got all paperwork, V5C, MOT history, log book, keys and Meta alarm codes etc.[/size]

[size=1em]The bad:[/size]
[size=1em]Bike has gone down a couple of times and although has been repaired to a high standard, still has a little cosmetic damage.[/size]
[size=1em]Small scuffs and knocks to tank.[/size]
[size=1em]Small dent in exhaust.[/size]
[size=1em]Some paint lost on engine, radiator and couple of spots on frame.[/size]
[size=1em]Cosmetic damage to throttle cable rubber cover.[/size]
[size=1em]Clock needed to be replaced as one accident damaged the fuel gauge. Replacement set show 6k miles less than genuine mileage. Original clocks included in sale.[/size]
[size=1em]Comes with both keys, but one is a little worn and temperamental. [/size]

[size=1em]It’s not perfect, but issues are all cosmetic. Overall a solid well maintained bike that’ll keep on going and delivering many smiles for many more miles.[/size]

Now SOLD.
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[size=1em]Give me a shout if you'd like more pics.[/size]

Having a tidy up and found two off these , forward by charlie boormoor so its pretty much worthless 


a freebie if you can collect or cost of postage if your a pansy loving summer rider  :lol

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Morning all


Was stripping the radiator off the bike to get access to the front of the engine and GODAMMIT one of the small aluminium pipes that comes out of the thing came off. It came off really easily and I can see why- its only a push fit into the rad itself- and with the length of pipe the leverage must have been too much.


As the rest of the radiator is in very good good nick (its the original radiator)[size=78%], I'm willing to go down the repair route for this. Now I have used a metalwork shop before for alu welding and I'm thinking this may lend itself to this as opposed to me having a shot with JB weld on the thing.


Has anyone else had a similar issue before?


Cheers in advance![/size]

Wondering what material these things are made from? Anyone had any success in welding up the stripped valve housing retaining threads and re-tapping them?  I hate helicoils!  Being time served in engineering and having full access to all the necessary workshop machines and tools it would not be difficult if the material is weldable, possibly using a T.I.G. set up?
                              P.S. Forgot to say even if weldable will it go very hard and thus unable to drill it?

Hi Folks


Not been around for a while, hope you're all good.


I've also not run the Fazer for months (probably sell it in the NY, TBH).  Do you think I need to shove a little oil in the cylinders before turning it over by hand, or just start the thing?


Ta,
Andy

Hi,
Have a set of carbs as above came of my 2004 fazer 1000 uk Model,
reason ive gone back to stock is wanting more sedate ride as have 2 busas both Gen 1 and 2 so put the fazer back to stock.
what is a good price for these?
Thanks in advance,
Mark.

Fazer 1000 2003
46000 miles
Venhill hoses
Corbin gunfighter seat with custom yamaha tuning fork seat cover
Rear jack up dog bones
R&G crash bobbins
Ivans carb modifications
Fuel exhaust can
Renntec rear rack
Head race and swing arm bearings replaced at 35000 miles




Oils and filter every 3000m no oil used between changes.
Used for commuting and pleasure


Good tyres and chain and sprockets


Good overall condition for age and mileage




£2100


CASH ONLY      NO TEST RIDES UNTIL PRICE AGREED AND MONEY EXCHANGED. ..REFUND IF NOT HAPPY AFTER TESTING


Situated in Somerset near Weston Super Mare




Email  garry.neads@sky.com


Or message on forum




Can't seem to attach picures here have a look on Piston heads websiite

Hi been away from the forum for awhile so hello to everyone!


Unfortunately the time has come to sell the old fazer. I went green and bough a kwacker z1000sx back in April 2017. I tried the MT10  but found the throttle too snatchy and the just didn't gel with it during the test ride but my god what an engine bloody awesome. In truth probably too much for me .Tried a zzr1400 and found that was tamer than the Mt!  In the end the z1000sx  was the best ride and value for me.a


Anyway let me get to the point.
I didn't need two big bikes so picked up a low miles xt600e  for my winter/ wet  weather bike. I then put the fazer on Piston heads for  sale. Couple days later got an email from a bloke asking for my best price what the condition was and why was I selling . I replied that the price was as stated and in line with similar bikes but if he was serious I may haggle a bit. I told him all the details on condition etc were in the advert.


Something didn't seem quite right 


Next day I got the reply
He accepted the price. Then went  on to say that he was unable to view the bike in person as he worked away a lot as net work engineer what ever that is. However he would contact his associate to send me a cheque for the asking price which would take 2-3 days to clear . After which he would arrange for pick up. He then ask me to send my name and address and mobile number.
I replied that I was only prepared to sell the bike face to face and for him to give me a contact number so we could talk . I haven't had a reply. Bear in mind my phone number is in the advert.


The spelling and grammar would suggest the "buyer" isn't English


Am I being stupid or IS this something anyone else has come across? 


Ps the bike is still for sale on Piston heads and this forums for sale section