Having a clear out and have a few FZS600 items plus several Givi hard cases which I've stuck on eBay.


Ideally collection from NN6, Welford, Northamptonshire.

• Front Brake Discs: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233379411856 (*these can be posted or collected in London)
  
• Wingrack 2 incl FZS600 kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233380755991
  
• Givi E52 Maxia Top Box: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233380744401
  
• Givi B36N panniers (slim cases, rare): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233380731497
  
• Givi E36 panniers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233380715010
  
• Givi E21 panniers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233380711056
  

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I decided to have a look at these new Chinese Brembo master cylinder copies, I previously had one of the older type (a copy of the 19 RCS).  The older ones, certainly the one I got, had a number of issues that in my opinion made them unusable without a fair bit of modification - as I mentioned in the post I put up - some were minor, like the rubber boot not fitting, some were major, like the piston being completely wrong and the pivots being not only soft alloy but the wrong size.  I stuck this on the FB page but thought I would stick it here as I have now used it for enough miles to uncover any potential issues.


Anyway - I later fitted one of the new (at the time) clutch perch/levers that were actually much better made.  Around the same time they started offering these new master cylinders that appeared to be a step up in quality.


As some sort of disclaimer or waiver of responsibility - I don't sell these nor would I actually recommend getting one unless you know what you are doing.  I don't condone cheap copies etc but in the interests of "taking a gander" I am putting this up -I find it interesting at the very least. 


So - first off, the price - I got this on an Aliexpress flash sale for £15 - delivered......from the other side of the world...


It is a copy of the Brembo RCS 19 Costa Corta.


It arrived in 6 days.





First off, it looks great from a quality perspective.  Feels solid, certainly a big step up from the old version.  It looks like the type of thing you might use to fight crime with in some of failed dystopian future...


It comes with everything required to fit, bolts, brake light switch, reservoir + hose etc (the reservoir is fine but it is still very small, the same as the older versions - like a pit bike one)


Taking it apart for a closer look.

The business end of the lever.






It is a beefy lever, seems quite well make - it even has the rubber grommet covering the 18/20 adjuster.





The span adjuster is vastly improved from the old version, this actually works for the full range.  The previous ones had an ill fitting tension spring that would not give any resistance to the screw when adjusting from the standard position - this would cause the screw to wobble and eventually fall out as it was just a loose fitting screw adjuster.  This new one is actually very good and works well with a decent feel to the turn.



This second adjuster (which sits vertically) is supposed to adjust some sort of bite point but in fact does nothing.  It is purely cosmetic on this copy, it spins as it should and has a lovely polished pivot pin and nice retaining holes but in the end that is it...  again - why they go to all that trouble then not actually have it do its function is a mystery.  Needless to say, I set it to its Race position.. because fast.

You can also see the pivot bushing.  This is now well made and needed no modification.  The old versions were weird, they looked like some sort of cast tube that had a big difference in diameter at the top/bottom.








The back side of the lever, where the actuator rod fits is still the eccentric cup setup - you turn it and it alters the angle the rod pushes the piston.  I mean, it does work and it is cleaner than the previous ones, smooth in the cup etc.  You can see the bolt holding the lever end (so it rotates up in a crash rather than snapping) still uses the rolled pin.  Real Brembos don't have the pin, they use a longer bolt with a nut and is simply clamped up.  I will do the same to this if I keep it on.  The whole lever is pretty nice though, it all fits nice and firm and has no real wobbly/play in the pivots etc





The rubber boot covering the piston/actuator fits nicely and shock horror, evidence of some sort of assembly grease being used!  Unheard of on the old ones!!  You can also see the brake switch which fits on the under side of the unit.  The switch looks fine to me, waterproofing is there etc.  The connectors are not the same as the Fazer so I had to cut them off and stick some appropriately sized blade connectors on.  All the surfaces are clean and sharply cast.





Removing the rubber boot uncovers the piston front face and the retaining clip.  Again, looks fine.





Its not fine though...  I only noticed when putting it back together because, well, you don't expect to have to check but the clip has no retaining groove.  They are simply relying on the steel clips edge to bite into the softer ally bore wall.  Lovely.  This is very risky because it isn't fail safe at all, this clip holds the brake together essentially, it also means the piston resting position to be set by pure chance as it rests with a spring pushing it to the front against the clip to set it...


You can see here the plain cylinder bore with no groove for the retaining clip.  The main bore itself is good though, the previous ones had burrs around all the entry/exit pathway holes for the fluid circuits, these new ones are all nicely finished.





So, into the lathe it goes to cut a seating groove.





We had to make a little mounting plate to get it setup in a 4 jaw chuck as there was no real way to grip it securely.  This is the underside of the master cylinder and you can see the banjo bolt hole and main lever pivot holes.  They are fine.


So, with a groove now cut, this is the piston.  Again, this is vastly improved over the old units.  The seals fit well and they have nice proud lips.  Previous ones had very badly fitting seals and a new piston had to be made.  You can see the return spring at the rear of it as well as the little internal cap/seat that pushes on the back of the master cylinder bore.





The circlip holding this together is really too small, you can see how it is stretched (and on removal it has actually bent open) so I stuck a correct sized one on.  This isn't really an issue but as it is the main brake I thought it best to sort it.





Built it all back up and fitted to the bike.  As with the last one this bled up extremely easily with the upper bleed point, the switch works for the light.  I had to make a mount for the reservoir as the supplied one is a straight type piece but it needs to be held about an inch further forward.


I have had this on now for just over 4000 miles and it has been great, feel and power are very good - it shares the same geometry as a real unit - and it has held up very well, it is still solid and no additional wobble from any of the pivots - it has less wobble than the OEM one I took off.  The main pivot pin is aluminium (anodised gold) which isn't really ideal but it is a solid 1/4 inch size so it isn't going to break.  It is showing signs of wear on the anodising so I will make a steel one I think.


They are still not a viable solution for fitting and forgetting though, they still need work to make safe IMO so I can't readily recommend them as a usable product, they are also copies which is not a great thing in itself.  You could argue that for £15 in a pinch you could fit one but they take days/weeks to arrive depending on how lucky you are so that doesn't really make sense - you could quickly find an OEM one in that time.  The upper bleed screw is also a little too long, it looks a bit naff being stuck out so much so it needs either turning down or a replacement shorter one being sourced.


Hopefully if you are contemplating trying one if these you might think twice and save your cash.  If you can modify it yourself then they do become viable but you would want to be confident in your work for obvious reasons.

Hey Guys,


Looking for exup valve for Fazer 1000


Thanks
Paul

Looking at replacing the original Exhaust system headers/downpipes on my Fazer.
There are a couple of offerings, comparing Black Widow and Delkevic.

The 4 into 1 connecting pipe is a different design from each, which caught my attention.
With the Delkevic appearing a much more seamless, flowing, plus cosmetically pleasing design.

Interested to hear from anyone with either of these exhaust systems, concerning build quality, finish, etc?
Or are there other products out there worth considering?

Until I decide, will be applying WD40 liberally to the header bolts, to hopefully make the job as eventLESS as possible (want no snapping header bolts).  :eek

Hey Guys,


I opened the exup valve cover to inspect it and it looks like some parts are missing there. Does anybody have a diagram with all the necessary parts related to exup valve operation and maybe a place online I can get those? I am not able to tell what is missing at this stage but should be able to figure it out once I see a technical spec


Thanks
Paul

Hi all,


I have sourced a blue spot rear caliper for my 600 however I am struggling to source for a reasonable price the pad support bracket its item 7 on the diagram I don't suppose anyone has one for sale?


Thank you,

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Interesting reading this Corrosion Protection Comparison

https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/re...rotectants

Genuine OEM Yamaha Disc Pads, New, Have never been fitted.


They fit "Fazer" Bikes with Blue Spot Type Calipers. FZS1000, FZS600, FZ6 S2, FZ1. (Fazers). They will fit other models in the Yamaha range. Please check first.


I bought them as spares for my FZS1000, but unfortunately have had to sell it, so these are now surplus to requirements. £45 inc uk postage.


Can collect  if you prefer, Teesside area.

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I took the plunge and bought the first TFT dash from Danny.

Here is what I found:

Hardware

• The TFT screen and bezel has a decent build quality.
  
• It was extremely easy to fit (three bolts and plug, find a place for the two button control and thermo sensor); it was especially easy for me as my bike is a streetfighter and has no fairing.
  
• I mounted the two button control on the rearward side of the brake fluid reservoir with the supplied 3M double sided sticky patch, it looks like it's meant to be there.
  
• I mounted the thermo sensor on the bottom edge of the screen bezel as I have no fairing.
  

• As Danny says, it is plug and play, the only thing you need to do before use is set the mileage on the odometer.
  
• The display is clear and easy to read with the option of several colour themes (my favourite is the yellow on black).
  
• The menu is easy to access and operate with the two button control.
  
• There are some minor software tweaks required (gear indicator not always displaying the correct gear). Danny is currently working on this and an update should be available shortly.
  

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After taking a fair bit of stick off the media and some who should know better,Scott Redding took the BSB title in his rooky year."wait 'till he gets to Cadwell and Knockhill,Oulton Park,etc he won't know what's happening" and other such remarks,well when he did get to these places he not only didn't make a fool of himself he won and was on the rostrum at them! and when he came to curcuits he'd been,Assen,Donington etc he showed his class and won convincingly and this was on different tyres and no trick electrics,all stuff he'd have to get used to after Moto GP.A lot of people would have liked to see him come unstuck but he didn't and deserved the title,he was the best rider in the championship and I really think he'll do well in WSB. :thumbup