Howdy all, I'm back in the land of FZS600 again after a break of a few years, glad to see you're all still here! I'm after getting myself a spotless 2001 red cocktail that looks like it's never seen rain. It had some front end damage and was missing a battery but once I stuck one of these into it fired up a purred like a baby. I'm after getting a headlight and am still trying to source a cowl stay, and have a brand new cowl coming in a week or two. looking forward to getting back on what is a great bike. My last one turned into a rat and I eventually sold it off although the motor was still strong as ever! Looking forward to getting back on one of these again...

Bike shop just diagnosed new piston rings required. I put it in because it is still misfiring on cylinder 3 intermittently. Chap suggested that it may not be economically viable to repair. It is a 2001 FZS Fazer, They seem to be going back up in value. Is this guy trying to rip me off?


I had previously dropped the bike off at the same place about three weeks ago but it was running fine then and they tried it through the day and it was fine when I rode it home.


Next time I tried it it was lumpy as shit, stalling at junctions or lights, with a terrible smell of petrol.


Thought it might be sticking carb piston. What would be the symptoms of that? If I started without any throttle either with or without choke it had run fine. Might a start with throttle lift the carb piston before it had chance to lubricate with some fuel. ( or how are these pistons supposed to be lubricated?


Previously I have had the carbs off three times to clean but using carb cleaner and air. Perhaps a clean in an ultrasonic bath is required.


I had done a compression test from cold which gave 14,5 barg for 1,2 and 4 but 12 for 3 but that might have been due to unburnt fuel washing lubrication from the piston rings.


I have swapped over coils and leads to eliminate electrical problems. Spark is healthy.


I have been very busy with work so not had time to sort this out. Also I think I am a bit prone to a reaction from petrol vapours which make me feel ill. Hence I tried the bike shop.




Any one got any ideas/comments?

Loads of bits for sale....
Engine
Carbs
one off headers and pipe
coils
lock set
Frame with v5
check out my ebay page.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143382087103

guys

i have tried 2 diffract pipes on my fazer , i have an mtc on it at the moment  but i am looking to get a more sporty sound and one able to tell me what they have, thinking arrow , akrapovic,termignoni ????
thanks guys

Many years ago, I had a lovely FZS600 that I used to commute between Wolverhampton and Nottingham a couple of time a week. The one thing I hated were the poor lights, especially o the A38 in the winter.

I did a bit of research and found that a Gen 1 Fazer 1000 subframe would fit the 600, a little more research, I found the Gen 1 Fazer headlights and fairing and infill panels would fit straight on. The only thing I had to tinker with was the wiring loom for the lights, but it only took an hour of trial and error before I had fully working headlights from a 1000 on my 600.

If anyone is interested in doing this, I have all the components from a Gen 1 Fazer 1000 to do the conversion except for the LH infill panel and mirrors.

Front Subframe
Fairing
Headlights
Screen
RH Infill Panel
No mirrors or LH Infill Panel

£300

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hi i just fitted an undertray to my fzs1000 (04). The battery was disconnected & now the bike won’t start. It has a meta alarm/immobiliser fitted. It will turn over but it comes up with a 9 fault code on the Rev counter, can anyone help shed some light for me please, Tia.

A few months ago, my mechanic installed the original Racetech emulator and Ohlins linear springs, following kebab19's guide.


Can't remember the details right now, but I think it set compression conservatively at 2-3 turns.


I've been riding the bike since, and the front end feels pretty harsh over bumps, but more importantly, when going faster over longer depressions in tarmac, it doesn't feel as planted. As if it floats too much, especially when forks are fully extended (under acceleration).
On my route home, there's a nice fast 3-lane curvy road going uphill, but it's plagued with depressions in tarmac (if that's the right expression, pardon my english).
So when going fast on that road + leaning, the front end plays too much and makes me uneasy. Yet, when coming off that road and slowing down, then going over harsh bumps, it puts a lot of stress on my arms.


Now, I must admit I don't quite get what which settings exactly do, and how to tweak them to remedy this problem.

I need to: a) lower the harshness and b) get rid of the fork play when under acceleration.
Do I increase or decrease rebound? Or compression? Or preload? It is now preloaded a bit (I gave them a few turns).

Can someone enlighten me please... thanks

Admit the truth, or even tell a lifetime story that is either too epic or simply has never been erased from your memory, whether it's yours or someone you know, that still raises a chuckle once brought up or mentioned! 

Well worth a look if you have an interest in the classic Japanese bikes.

https://www.staffordclassicbikeshows.com/october/

Harry Dunn, a 19 year old motorcyclist, died in August when his bike hit a car (that may have been driven by the wife of an American Diplomat) after it pulled out of an exit onto the wrong side of the road.

The Police wanted to question her and she said she wouldn't leave the country, but she then flew back to the USA and Trump has just said that the USA will not waive her Diplomatic Immunity and return her to the UK to be questioned and face possible trial
:2guns
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-no...e-49995867