Anyone tried these tyres? How well do they behave on dry pavement, how long do they last? The thread doesn't promise grip in the rain, but I don't ride faster than a wounded snail in the rain so no problems.

Since my current gloves, despite being called 'Bone Dry', let in more water than the Titanic I'm after a new pair.  I don't want to spend a silly amount but I want a pair that actually keep my hands dry and warm.  Bearing in mind it's coming up to winter and I was thinking of getting some heated grips soon also, has anyone got/used heated gloves?  Are they any good?  I wouldn't mind spending more on the gloves if it saved me getting the grips...

Ta very much  :thumbup

hi all,

I’m starting to prepare for the winter months of riding my 70 mile round trip commute and have found these http://www.windingroads.co.uk/shop/produ...e81eb8c020 and was wondering if anyone has had any experience of this type of heated grip. Do the existing grips come off in a way that they can be put back on or will I have to buy new grips after trying for ages and then going at them with a Stanley knife out of frustration?! Also how effective are they versus the full change of grip to Oxfords?

I don’t really want to have to go for Oxford Hot Grips as I like the look of the standard grips and they seem a little more streamlined and low key (the switch is tiny compared to the oxfords bar mounted affair)

Second question is; can anyone recommend a decent heated vest / thin jacket that runs off the battery and doesn’t cost the earth? I’ve been looking at safenwarm but they are just too expensive at the moment (new baby is draining the funds!)

And thirdly… I decided to buy a cheepo long john top for about £4 from Go Outdoors to see how well it would cope with the colder weather, it works a dream, makes a mockery of any more expensive technical wear I’ve had before, I just look like my grandad / a hillbilly in it, but as its under my jacket no one needs to know…apart from you guys!

Hi folks

I've owned the same '02 Gen-1 since I bought it as an ex-demo in 2003. It came with a hugger and belly thingy fitted. Total mileage about 15k (I know!). I plan to keep riding it, as I doubt I'd find a better bike.

History: I haven't modified it to date apart from fitting a Scottoiler and Givi kit. It has been dealer serviced annually (I'm useless with spanners) and the EXUP valve has been checked and lubed at my request at each service. So far it has only needed a battery or two replacing, and its only breakdown was due to a dead battery. I don't thrash the engine, but it doesn't get routinely adjusted/checked/topped up/cleaned very often (ever?); I do mostly summer miles, wet and dry. I'm XXL+ size, so the suspension (it's been set up to suit me and seems fine) probably gets well tested.

Current blemishes: bit of bubbling on some of the metal engine detachable cover plates, otherwise it's pretty much rust free, but dirty (still has last year's flies on the screen).

Over the winter, I'd like to have it brought back to "feels like new" or even "feels better than new!" condition ("looks like new" would be nice too, but much less important), and set it up for another 10 hopefully trouble free years. I'm not keen for any mods that might put my insurance up, but am I right in thinking I can now get "classic" insurance on it?

Already on the list (the first five are courtesy of advice already received hereabouts) are:

• full suspension overhaul/upgrade/replacement (all input on the best route welcome!) (R6 unit ordered from Devilsyam)
  
• full brake seal overhaul, with new master cylinders (any useful "improvements" to braking to be made? an aftermarket ABS would be nice!)
  
• braided hoses (which are the best? source?) (Hel kit ordered)
  
• wiring loom check for corrosion/security/contact
  
• louder horn (already ordered!)
  
• new chain/sprockets if needed
  
• new cables if needed
  
• replace rusty bolts/connectors
  
• New tyres (I've always had Bridgestones, but is there a better choice nowadays for a sedate, upright, low mileage type rider!?) (Bridgestones ordered)
  
• bar riser (type? source?) as my neck now kills me after a few hours
  
• heated grips (type/source?) (not going to bother)
  
• headlight lighting upgrade (is there one?)
  
• comfy replacement seat (type? source? numb arse syndrome worsening)
  
• a modest tune-up perhaps, aiming for smoothness, rather than power increase, as I'm definitely no racer or track day god (what and how?)
  
• umm... that's all I can think of
  

Hi Folks,

Looking for a Tail tidy and Bellypan for a 2005 Fazer 1000
Bellypan ideally in Blue although as long as it fits I can have it painted, same applies to scuffs etc.
If anyone can help please PM me ........... Cheers 

up for grab's is  a HowellA Performance high quality stainless steel stubby exhaust  was manufactured for my Yamaha Fzs 600  1998

The exhaust  is a highly polished . this will fit other bikes the exhaust is  slightly  baffled but are still loud too loud to use at 4 am going to work for me and too loud for me . One high quality exhausts had it on the bike for two days I would like to get some of my money back for it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320992764762?

and have got one or two over  bits for sale

Fazer FZS 1000 for sale - 2003 (53 reg) - located in Portsmouth, Hampshire

Very Nice Condition (except for a small dent in the standard exhaust & a very small dent in the tank)

Brakes & chain are good.

Silver, Low mileage - 16,276 miles

Pirelli Angel ST Tyres - the front is fine, the rear is just starting to square off a little. Both have plenty of tread left.

10 months Mot, 5 months Tax

Sensible extras:

• Datatool alarm/immobilisor - with 2 fobs
  
• Datatag fitted
  
• Scottoiler with touring reservoir
  
• Belly pan
  
• NWS Hugger
  
• Front mudguard extender
  
• Yamaha Crash bungs
  
• Uprated fork springs
  
• Headlight protectors
  
• New (ish) battery - just over 1 year old
  
• Renthall bars (much more comfortable than the standard ones - they're also available if you really want them)
  

Attached Files

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Just a quicky folks, my mates got a fazer 600 on an '03(I think ) plate, his ignition barrel has gone fubar, anyone know what barrels will fit?  Fazer 1000? Tdm? I had assumed it would be a standard issue multi use barrel that fits loads

Topbox lights


I fitted a Givi E370 (39 litre) topbox a while back and fitted some RED LED lights to it.  Here's the rack + topbox fitted to a renntec rack.


http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,1880....l#msg14108


The Fazer 1000 rack appears stronger than other renntec racks as it is held on by 4 bolts from the grab rails,  the ones that seem to fail quickly are those that connect to the two bolt grab rail setups, time will tell in my case though.


So - i wanted to have some LEDs installed in the reflectors and using the topbox as extra brake lights seemed a straight forward idea.  Luckily this chap on YouTube gave me the ideas:


Givi E370 LED mod test run - rear view


The flexible strip LEDs work well for this application.


<< See photos of the LED strips, how they can be cut to length and soldered >>


The top box reflector panels can be removed by undoing the internal screws.  This gives you a nice surface to stick on the LED strips,  they come with a sticky tape backing so all you have to do is unpeel the back and position where you want.  I did 3 rows of LEDs but i could of gone for 4 or 5 rows.  The LEDs use such a small current draw you don't need to be concerned with stressing any electric circuit.  See the image where i layed out the stips on the topbox.  As you can only cut the LED strips at the cut points (about every 5 cm or so) you do have a lot of flexibility with the mounting.  I decided to keep the white plastic inserts as i thought it helped reflect the light better, but they can be removed should you wish.


<< see photo of the topbox with the reflector panels removed >>


On each LED strip solder on a length of wire (make it 1m long to give you flexibility) and you'll need to drill some small holes to allow the wires from the strips to be routed into the inside of the topbox lid. 


Once the wires are inside you can join them together so that you have a common (single wire) -ve wire and i had two +ve wires as one was for the strips that come on with ignition and the other wire will go to the break light circuit so those LEDs come on with the brake lights. 


<< see photo of the topbox with LEDs layed out >>


I drilled a hole in the bottom corner of the box as this is where my 3 wires exited  I then used some bullet connectors to let me connect to the wiring on the bike, and allow the topbox to be removed.  I wired up the common -ve and ignition +ve to my fuseblock so that circuit goes on with the lights/ignition.  I did have to tap a wire into the rear connector for the brake lights, so i had a wire that went +12V when the brake lights came on,  this will power my brake lights on the topbox.  If you see the photo of the rear of the bike with the panels removed you'll see the connector i went to,  just use a multimeter to test each wire from battery -ve to see which goes +12v when you activate the brake lights, then you can tap into that circuit. 


<< see the photo of the inside of the topbox lid with the wiring inside, and photo of wiring exiting in the bottom corner >>


I made the hole in the bottom of the box waterproof with a dab of silicon sealant and that's about it.  If i was being fancy i would have ran in power for an accessory socket in the topbox, then i could charge the phone on a USB connector or something.  I maybe could have also wired up a white LED strip inside the topbox so i can see what's in there when i open the box, this would just be a small strip that comes on with ignition.  In the darkness being able to see stuff in the box would be useful.


I've not had any problems with the wires catching etc inside the box,  i could have made it neater by using thinner wiring (LEDs drw next to no current so use thin wiring) and heat shrinked all of the wiring to tidy it up more.  I did leave a little bit of slack where the wiring goes past the hinge,  you'll need some flexibility to allow the lid to open/close. I taped up the wires to protect them more when they move. 


I also put some LEDs in the central reflector.  I wired mine up so that 2 rows on each side come on with the ignition and one row (each side) and the central reflector come on with the brake light.  You could have these wired up to indicators etc etc.


<< see photo of rear of bike,  with ignition on, then with the brake lights on >>



I hope this give you some ideas as to what you can do with these little LED strips,  i commute all year round on the bike so with the dark evenings coming soon this is a good safety mod in my eyes. 

Turns out the leathers I've bought are too small so I'm after a 2-piece set and need a bit of advice,

Does anyone know a shop where I can pick up some cheap?
What brands accommodate legs larger than Mick Jagger's?