Been a while, but now (post covid) I'm thinking of getting a FZ1.
Been riding a Honda NC750x for the last 6 or 7 years (easy commuter and 70MPG), but now I'll be mostly working from home with only a couple of day a week in the office, MPG isn't quite as important so something a bit more fun is in order
My first post so hello from me and please be gentle..
I have a 1998 FZS600 with pretty square eyes. Generally very tidy.
It was my wife's but I confiscated it because she stopped riding it. Its got 28800 miles on the clock.
I took it out for a 40 mile ride (err.. house hunting) on Tuesday. The bike is running really well and very smoothly - except for a knock at tick over. Its too slow to be a bearing knock, I am pretty sure that its the cam chain knocking. I have to admit that I haven't heard it before but I am actually quite (almost totally) deaf.
I gather that the cam chains have a life of about 30000 miles so it could be due for a change.
I assume that I don't have to lift the bottom end to replace the chain, I am happy to grind off a rivet of two to split the chain, but are there any recommended non endless chain kits that I can buy to replace the chain? I haven't been able to find one at the usual suspects.
Before I start ripping the bike apart, is there anything else I need to check? I am lifting the carbs out in the next few days (replace the inlet rubbers that have perished) so can get at the cam chain tensioner. Do they have a habit of sticking?
Hi foccers. Got home from work on my gen2 today and about a minute after parking up it spat some coolant out of the overflow coming from the expansion tank, about a 1/2 pint. The bike didnt overheat on the ride.
The level on the bottle has always been at the full mark when cold since i flushed the system and refilled with coolant last July. The level now sits about half way between low and full when cold, and the radiator is still full to the top.
I know some bikes don't like the level being at the max like my old vfr which always sat on the minimum line, but I don't understand why its only decided this now about 2k miles later?
I ran her up again and got both fans working at 100 degrees, the stat seems to open at around 77 as the temp drops down to 70 before building back up. I took her out again and all seems normal. Im thinking possible dodgy stat?
Just a quick Hello, as a 1st time Fazer owner and forum user.
I have a 2003 Fazer 1000, with about 38K on the clock, I'm pretty impressed with the Fazer so far and after 7 months of commuting everyday the bikes been great.
Although I would be lying if I didn't say, I still very much miss my MT-09 Tracer I wrote off in 2019.
For sale is my MRA Vario touring screen with mounted spoiler in very good condition.
Picture seems to show scratches on lower half bit must be fluff or dust picked up by the sun as there's nothing apparent when I look at it now.
My much-loved US-spec Fazer 1000 is for sale. I've only done about 1500 miles in the last 2 years, so the bike's not getting used and I'm hoping somebody will get as much enjoyment out of it as I have in the last 10 years of ownership.
2004, 52k, colour is DPBMC, Northampton/Wellingborough, £1750
Non-standard specs:
Ivan’s full monty (by Mike)
K&N Air filter
MIVV carbon can with Homologation Cert.
Renthal 758 bars
ASV levers
Braided lines front & rear
Maxton fork spring, recent new bushes and seals
Overhauled rear shock with Hyperpro spring
Gilles rear-sets
Colour-matched powder coated wheels
Stainless radiator guard
Colour-matched side panels and radiator sides
Belly pan
LED ‘flowing’ indicators, indicator relay replaced.
LED rear light
LED clock bulbs
Lots of stainless/titanium/aluminium bolts
Street-fighter, standard & Zero Gravity DB screens
Comes with lots of original parts including centre stand, indicators, can, rear light, footrests. The bike is in VGC for age and mileage and runs and rides very well. The only downer is an intermittent fault to the fuel gauge.
Hi guys,
Hello from sunny, at the moment, Sydney Australia.
I had this posted in the FZS600 section @darrsi suggested I post it here for more attention.
I'm trying to hopefully get some info on the FZS600 cylinders, rods and pistons for an overbore project on a 3TJ1 FZR400.
I'm trying to avoid ending up with a workshop full of parts just for the purposes of taking measurements, especially when many bits will need to come from OS.
As an outline, because it's essentially de-stroking a YZF600/FZS600 from 49.6mm to 40.5mm, I'm trying to avoid removing bulk material from the cylinders to maintain the gasket mating surface.
What I know for certain - Yamaha in their wisdom built an incredibly versatile crank, with many dimensions which are maintained across many many bikes.So the conrod big ends go onto the FZR400 crank - no issues. Conrod little ends are 17mm bore, so compatible with YZF600 pistons if necessary.
Regarding the FZS600 rod and piston measurements, this is only if someone has either an engine in parts or can point me in the right direction to a service manual or the like for the dimensions on the internals.
I have some of the details from another forum where the FZR600 crank was used to build a stroker YZF600, but as you can imagine it's a very old post.The measurement details are missing, however in that case they built a spacer plate.
Ideally I'm looking for just the height of the FZS600 cylinder block to begin with because the OP just says that they're 2cm (must be a typo), likely meaning 2mm shorter than the YZF600 cylinder block, the height of which I don't yet know either.
Past that he mentions that the FZS600 conrods are 3mm shorter than the YZF600 conrods.So eye to eye conrod length measurement of the FZS600 rods if available/possible.
Then there is the last element, the compression height of the FZS600 pistons.
If anyone has a reliable source for the info, or can take the basic measurements I'd very much appreciate it.