Author Topic: Acceleration stutter after service (Read 18228 times)

dBfazer600 · « **on:** 31 August 2013, 10:54:18 pm »

Today I have done the following:

New:

Air & Oil Filter
Spark plugs NGK CR8EIX 4218
Cleaned front breaks all is good
Rear break seized but free enough not to drag until I can strip it down and see to it properly (new pads fitted and works as expected)

Bike is stuttering on acceleration on overtakes and when ridden hard. Had to adjust tick over as it shot up to 2.250K after service. Bike runs smoother than in the past and sounds sweet.

This has me stumped and can only think it been electrical as its intermittent.

Any Ideas boys and girls.

Daz

noggythenog · « **Reply #1 on:** 31 August 2013, 11:02:04 pm »

My token answer is....have you kinked or trapped the fuel pipe under the tank when you put it back down???

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #2 on:** 31 August 2013, 11:11:09 pm »

Noggy I let numb nuts do most of the work and he put the tank back on but forgot to turn the fuel tap back on so I did come to an halt a mile down the road without tools including numb nuts. Got it sorted after a phone call and he turned up with tool in hand and I let him play with my bike again.

I would expect any fuel blockages to be present at any point of acceleration but I will check it out tomorrow

Daz

Dead Eye · « **Reply #3 on:** 31 August 2013, 11:35:32 pm »

My bet is on the air filter - if you still have the old one, swap them round as its only a 5-10 min job and will help to rule it out.

Stutter means checking the three main things - Fuel, Air and Spark

You haven't touched Fuel in your service so start with Air and Spark - easiest to check first is Air

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #4 on:** 31 August 2013, 11:47:54 pm »

I will do one job at a time and start with sparks by putting old ones back in. Bike run like a dream for 30 mins with a noticable change in the power band but hay that's how it goes

Daz

darrsi · « **Reply #5 on:** 31 August 2013, 11:52:33 pm »

You may need to read "War & Peace" written by 'red98'.
It's a best seller.

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #6 on:** 01 September 2013, 12:02:02 am »

Also noticed but never happened before tick over decreases when lights are on but is normal when they are off.

Quote from: darrsi on 31 August 2013, 11:52:33 pm

You may need to read "War & Peace" written by 'red98'.
It's a best seller.

That's a bit racy with what I have been told and is now considered a lads mag by the feminist of our society

Daz

Chris · « **Reply #7 on:** 01 September 2013, 12:12:04 am »

Perhaps the plug caps and leads could be the problem, seeing as they've been tugged at to get them out the way to get to the spark plugs, could have caused on of them to crack at the end or something giving a poor spark which you would only notice when under load/heavy load.

But as Deadeye said try the air filter first as it's probably easier to see if it's the problem.

Chris

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #8 on:** 01 September 2013, 12:15:54 am »

What surprised me was that the nipple head of the new spark plugs needed to be removed to fit the caps.

To be honest Chris I am clutching at straws as this has never happened to me before and I am questioning everything

Daz

Chris · « **Reply #9 on:** 01 September 2013, 12:29:13 am »

I'd go with the caps or leads as the main problem but just take your time and work through it. You'll get it fixed soon I'm sure.

Chris

red98 · « **Reply #10 on:** 01 September 2013, 07:01:48 am »

hi daz.........as DEADEYE,put all the old parts back on and check caps and leads.make sure fuel line is routed well and not trapped ,what air filter are you using ?.....let us know if theres any improvement

Hedgetrimmer · « **Reply #11 on:** 01 September 2013, 07:59:45 am »

Yeah, but don't do what red98 did and change more than one item at a time! Or you still won't know which thing cured it. Ok Paul?!

keirravn · « **Reply #12 on:** 01 September 2013, 09:58:53 am »

Another vote for air filter

red98 · « **Reply #13 on:** 01 September 2013, 08:06:58 pm »

Quote from: nick crisp on 01 September 2013, 07:59:45 am

Yeah, but don't do what red98 did and change more than one item at a time! Or you still won't know which thing cured it. Ok Paul?!

cheers nick

......yeh,just one part at a time

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #14 on:** 01 September 2013, 11:55:41 pm »

What you see is what I have done although the rear break pistion has seized and i is awaiting delivery of new one has it is now causing the new pads to drag. So with is as an issue I am waiting until I have sorted it. The rear break has seriously put shivers down my spine

but lesion learned.

Oil is just below top mark.

Been for a short run and the bike is de-accelerating faster than normal which the R break accounts for.

Details

1 Old air filter dirty dirty dirty

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2 The after shot of a new filter

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3 Front breaks before and after clean

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4 OMG rear break put it back on and 2nd bike shop got the parts

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5 Can not believe these

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6 Well and truely gunked up

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7 Took an age to get to this to find they are seized

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8 No matter how you look at it the pistons will not budge

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9 What realy pisses me off is that who ever put these in did put them in dry

I had to take a heavy duty chisel to the R pistons so I could at least get the new pads in so I hope the break will push them back out when fitting new ones.

Daz

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #15 on:** 03 September 2013, 06:05:29 pm »

Found this so now awaiting the caps I ordered

Details

Number 2 cap rubber split How clean are those hands

Daz

JZS 600 · « **Reply #16 on:** 03 September 2013, 06:29:53 pm »

Hopefully will be sorted now!

Last time I changed the spark plugs I took off the No3 lead and it came off in my hand!

5 mm off the lead, screwed back on and away...

Chris · « **Reply #17 on:** 05 September 2013, 09:59:25 pm »

Quote from: dBfazer600 on 03 September 2013, 06:05:29 pm

Found this so now awaiting the caps I ordered

Details
Number 2 cap rubber split How clean are those hands
Number 2 cap rubber split How clean are those hands

Daz

Permission to look smug?

Hope the new one sorts the problem mate.

Chris

noggythenog · « **Reply #18 on:** 09 September 2013, 09:56:15 am »

Well found Daz

Hope it works

Oh by the way your new can looks minted, enjoy the roar!!

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #19 on:** 09 September 2013, 08:08:23 pm »

Update

Did one job at a time and firstly put new fuel filter on that made no difference so then fitted new spark caps and adjusted the throttle to take out the free play. I lubbed all cables a just in case they were dry. I have not had the chance to open it up but the bike now picks up better and throttle is more responsive. So tomorrow I hope to get it up to 10rpm where its been stuttering.

Stuttering was more noticeable on the OEM can but less on the new one.

Cheers Noggy it is so sweet and engine is allot smoother with a face full of

Chris please take great pleasure in been smug

Daz

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #20 on:** 10 September 2013, 03:57:53 pm »

Been for a blast and the front wheel now raises its head

Gear changes and acceleration allot smoother. Unsure if stutter is still present as I may

have rolled off the throttle when in 3rd but all OK in 2nd. I need to take it on something like a motorway to give it a real test. But first impressions is that all is fine as I is now having some serious fun on the road

Thanks guys

Daz

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #21 on:** 11 September 2013, 03:37:45 pm »

2nd test ride and all is not as I hoped.

1st gear did not take it up to limit but is OK
2nd gear 10k rmp OK
3rd gear stutter around 10k rpm
4th gear doing 100mph and due to lack of road could not get it to 10k rpm as I was screaming ho shit ho shit ho shit then dropping two gears and whipping it round a roundabout.

Bike runs smoother lower down the rev range but is at its happiest when been ridden hard. Yet when opening the throttle hard from low revs in 3rd gear bike holds back for a second. So I am

thinking carb balance.

A new noise from the rear wheel is a squeak

. Unsure if its the calliper or bearings so I will have a look at that later but only noticed it when going forward.

Daz

darrsi · « **Reply #22 on:** 11 September 2013, 03:51:41 pm »

Unbalanced carbs makes it jittery at lower speeds, it's worth doing anyway if it hasn't been done for a while, but i doubt it'll be the issue with plenty of throttle?

dBfazer600 · « **Reply #23 on:** 11 September 2013, 04:02:17 pm »

Quote from: darrsi on 11 September 2013, 03:51:41 pm

Unbalanced carbs makes it jittery at lower speeds, it's worth doing anyway if it hasn't been done for a while, but i doubt it'll be the issue with plenty of throttle?

Yep, carbs need doing but I am stumped at this one darrsi. Thing is it accelerates and rides better but its just this 10k and hard throttle stutter. It does not install confidence for overtaking

Daz

darrsi · « **Reply #24 on:** 11 September 2013, 04:25:40 pm »

Quote from: dBfazer600 on 11 September 2013, 04:02:17 pm

Quote from: darrsi on 11 September 2013, 03:51:41 pm
Unbalanced carbs makes it jittery at lower speeds, it's worth doing anyway if it hasn't been done for a while, but i doubt it'll be the issue with plenty of throttle?

Yep, carbs need doing but I am stumped at this one darrsi. Thing is it accelerates and rides better but its just this 10k and hard throttle stutter. It does not install confidence for overtaking

Daz

I had a similar thing when i bought my bike but had a full carb strip down and clean done, and Dyno'd, and it sorted it out.
If you wanna try a quick and easy possible solution, then i would also suggest to you to try the "STP Complete Fuel System Treatment".
Use a half bottle each time over 2 full tanks of fuel and let it do its thing, i personally felt a big difference after a couple of days riding.
It costs about £15 a pop at Halfords.
It's another one of those things that will do more good than harm so i'd certainly give it a go and see if it helps?