TPS issues (cont)

[jonest27]

Ok, so I am now the owner of 3 TPS's.
All of them are reading 10,000 regardless of how much I adjust them.
I did exactly what the manual says. Warm the bike up, set the idle to between 1150 and 1250.
It wont budge from that 10,000 mark.
I've even tried turning the idle right down (3 - 4 turns more) just incase where the idle is is whats causing the 10000 reading.
I just dont get it.
Is there anything else I can change / adjust to see if I can get it to lower from the 10,000 mark?


Thanks

[Ebme Geek]

I assume your rev counter works properly when it is connected normaly, and gives sensible indication of engine speed, if so check the condition of the conections on the Ignitor module and check the continuity of the three wires, think they are Blue, Yellow & Black with Blue stripe

[jonest27]

I assume your rev counter works properly when it is connected normaly, and gives sensible indication of engine speed, if so check the condition of the conections on the Ignitor module and check the continuity of the three wires, think they are Blue, Yellow & Black with Blue stripe

Hiya, yep, tacho works fine normally. The ignitor module, is that the CDI unit?

[Paulfzs]

unplug tps, switch ignition on, plug in tps


then undo the 2 screws and very very slowly move it... like just under a mm very slowly and watch the tacho to see if it moves at all.


if you go too fast and skip past it then the tacho wont move.
it really does have to be minute adjustments.

[jonest27]

unplug tps, switch ignition on, plug in tps


then undo the 2 screws and very very slowly move it... like just under a mm very slowly and watch the tacho to see if it moves at all.


if you go too fast and skip past it then the tacho wont move.
it really does have to be minute adjustments.

I thought that if they are at 10, 000 and I moved it passed the "sweet spot" then it would jump to 0.
I have tried moving them really slow,( I've even put them on backwards and then turning them) but it just sit's at 10,000

[Ebme Geek]

It's what you are thinking of but, the FZS has transistor ignition as opposed to Capacitor Discharge Ignition.
 
As your RPM's show ok it means the tacho and connection back to the ignitor module seem ok, so either you have a pile of duff sensors or the only other bits its likely to be are the wiring back to the ignitor or the module itself
 
hope that helps

[Paulfzs]

you need to understand, they are VERY sensitive, a fag paper would set it wrong.


keep it the propper way and do it superr gently, where abouts are you? profile doesnt state location.

[darrsi]

I'm presuming they're all used ones?
I hate to say it but if they are then there is that small chance they could all be faulty, seeing as how old they are and the fact they are prone to be faulty.
My bike is on its 3rd one now.
You need to try one that you know for sure is good and working correctly, but that's obviously a bit of a tricky one unfortunately.

[jonest27]

you need to understand, they are VERY sensitive, a fag paper would set it wrong.


keep it the propper way and do it superr gently, where abouts are you? profile doesnt state location.

Really?! That sensitive? Thats crazy, I noticed they're all a bit rusty on the metal bits inside the holes, would that make any difference?
I'm in south Wales

[jonest27]

I'm presuming they're all used ones?
I hate to say it but if they are then there is that small chance they could all be faulty, seeing as how old they are and the fact they are prone to be faulty.
My bike is on its 3rd one now.
You need to try one that you know for sure is good and working correctly, but that's obviously a bit of a tricky one unfortunately.

Hiya Darrsi!
Yea, they're all used ones.
Don't wanna believe they're all faulty otherwise it's just wasted money
Not much chance of getting one that I know is working I guess unless I bite the bullet and buy a new one, but at £165 don't really wanna do that.
andy chance that it could be that the idle/throttle cables/choke  affecting it?

[Paulfzs]

I'm presuming they're all used ones?
I hate to say it but if they are then there is that small chance they could all be faulty, seeing as how old they are and the fact they are prone to be faulty.
My bike is on its 3rd one now.
You need to try one that you know for sure is good and working correctly, but that's obviously a bit of a tricky one unfortunately.

Hiya Darrsi!
Yea, they're all used ones.
Don't wanna believe they're all faulty otherwise it's just wasted money
Not much chance of getting one that I know is working I guess unless I bite the bullet and buy a new one, but at £165 don't really wanna do that.
andy chance that it could be that the idle/throttle cables/choke  affecting it?

possibly, when its at 5000 if you twist the throttle it goes to 10,000

[jonest27]

Well I've just been out there for a good hour/ hours and half.
moved all 3 tps's a slowly as possible needle didnt move an inch, loosened throttle cable, turned down idle and tried again.
Running out of ideas here

[Paulfzs]

maybe theyre all broken then :/


did you get off ebay?
did the seller say they work

[jonest27]

One is the original off my bike, one is off Ebay (seller said it 's off a running bike) and the third on is from a bike breakers near me.

[darrsi]

Turn the ignition on first (don't start it).

Then unplug the TPS.

Does the needle alternate between 0rpm and 3000rpm?

[darrsi]

One is the original off my bike, one is off Ebay (seller said it 's off a running bike) and the third on is from a bike breakers near me.

May have been a running bike, but that's not to say they didn't realise their TPS could've been faulty.


Same with a breakers, if you tell them it doesn't work they just generally change things for you.


You may just be unlucky. 

[jonest27]

One is the original off my bike, one is off Ebay (seller said it 's off a running bike) and the third on is from a bike breakers near me.

May have been a running bike, but that's not to say they didn't realise their TPS could've been faulty.


Same with a breakers, if you tell them it doesn't work they just generally change things for you.


You may just be unlucky. 

I guess I'll just have to at some point bite the bullet and get a new one or find someone with a working one.
If I got a new one and still cant get it to 5000, what would the next step be?

[Paulfzs]

...

[jonest27]

PMSL!
See, I'm not even sure that I care that much about the tps.
The bike runs, it has a few issues, but it'll still get me from A - B.
It's just the fact that I know it's not set up right, makes me want to sort it to know how it would run if it was sorted.
My biggest problem with the bike is a loud grinding/crunching noise that it gets intermittently when riding slowy that causes the bike to jerk (almost like the brakes are causing it) but I serviced the brakes recently and made sure that they weren't binding so I doubt thats it.
If anyone wants to have a stab a whats causing that then that'll help.

[slappy]

The loud grinding/ crunching noise is probably your chain. Clean it, inspect for tight spots, adjust it correctly and lube it. Also check your sprockets are in good condition.

[jonest27]

The loud grinding/ crunching noise is probably your chain. Clean it, inspect for tight spots, adjust it correctly and lube it. Also check your sprockets are in good condition.

Pretty much a brand new chain and sprocket set. Less than 500 miles on them...

[darrsi]

Does the needle alternate between 0rpm and 3000rpm when the TPS is unplugged?

[Paulfzs]

Does the needle alternate between 0rpm and 3000rpm when the TPS is unplugged?

[jonest27]

Does the needle alternate between 0rpm and 3000rpm when the TPS is unplugged?

Yup, all of them do this

[Ebme Geek]

Hopefully this might help as Throttle Position Sensor seems to come up at regular intervals on here, so thought I would do a couple of measurements for reference...
 
First of all, this is how mine show up as ok on the tacho, pic taken this morning before I went to work

Details TPS Tacho 5k

TPS Tacho 5k

When I first checked mine after doing my cam chain I thought this was just a fraction high so thought I would tweak it down a touch,
First lesson learnt - > This is ok and in the acceptable range, drop below the range and the needle drops straight to '0', be a fraction above the range and it jumps straight to '10'; so I should not have touched it 
Second lesson - > The adjustment is very sensitive and easy to move as you tighten the screws.
 
Anyway back to the main bit - >
The TPS is just a potentiometer so first check the track resistance, Haynes spec this as 5 KΩ +/- 1.5kΩ
I used some test clips to get onto the two outer contacts

Details TPS Track resistance

TPS Track resistance

 
Then I checked the resistance from one end of the track to the 'wiper', this at idle position

Details TPS res Idle

TPS res Idle

 
Then at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) position

Details TPS res WOT

TPS res WOT

 
The actual figures may vary quite a bit, hell the tolerance on the track is +/- 30%.
But another important bit is that as you move the throttle from idle to WOT the reading should smoothly and consistently change, there should not be any drop-outs or blips, this is a little easier to see with an analogue meter (that is one with a needle)
 
And finally just to show the wires

Details TPS wires

TPS wires