Quote from: unfazed on 20 February 2023, 07:23:34 pm

Turn out more fuel  (Anticlockwise).
Turn in less fuel (Clockwise)
Was there not an option to increased the air jet to cater for the increase in pilot jet size.
Are all the O rings intact and the needle set to the correct height.

Hi unfazed,
I will set the screws to 2 turns to see if it makes it better, I don't want to fit pod filters.

Why 2 turns, when your bike is 2.5 turns?

Quote from: darrsi on 19 February 2023, 10:06:16 pm

Quote from: dave8204 on 19 February 2023, 12:56:53 am

Fuel goes off very quickly these days,if you leave your bike with petrol in the system for more than a few weeks you're going to get trouble with any bike.

Sorry, but that's simply not true.

We'll have to disagree on that mate,from personal experience and from hanging around my mate's Bike shop/workshop for years I'm seeing more and fuel-related problems with customer's bikes, usually around this time of year when many are using them for the first time since last September or so,mostly older carb'd bikes.


https://monomotorcycles.co.uk/how-can-modern-fuels-damage-motorcycle-engines-how-to-prevent-this/

Most relevant part is this:

Here is a shocking fact. Modern ethanol fuel starts to go off the moment it goes into your fuel tank. A sealed petrol can kept in a cool dark place can last 6 months before it starts to degrade, however in your vented motorcycle fuel tank, it can be as little as six weeks before you could start to see issues.

Everyone on here has a carbed bike, and there are probably more rather than less that don't use them all through winter, but the forum doesn't get swamped with non starters due to bad fuel every year. If it did i would've noticed and know a lot about the subject as i've been on here a long time now, but it's never really been an issue. My own bike sat around doing nothing in very warm temperatures during the first year of covid when i was furloughed and the bike had no fuel issues whatsoever when i went back to work. Although to be truthful back then i would only use 97 RON fuel, and now bounce between 97 Super and ESSO 99 which has zero Ethanol in it (it's marked as "Up To 5%" on the pump for legal reasons). 

Fuel goes off very quickly these days,if you leave your bike with petrol in the system for more than a few weeks you're going to get trouble with any bike.

Sorry, but that's simply not true.

Mine had a bit of a problem where it started misfiring badly like it was losing a couple of cylinders. After sitting a few minutes it would be OK, then the problem would start again.
I ended up taking the tank off and draining it, drained all the carbs, took off the filter and cleaned out with brake cleaner, cleaned all the plugs and refitted everything along with new petrol. Problem sorted.
Guessing it was water in the carbs from the odd time I've used this crappy E10 stuff.

99% Isopropyl Alcohol can be used if you suspect water in the tank. It works differently than Ethanol and will bind with water then get burnt off as fuel. Use no more than 1% per full tank of fuel, so 200ml for a 20 litre tank.


I've been using it for years during winter as my bike suffers from carb icing and nowadays I only add 100ml per tank during prolonged colder weather and it makes a difference immediately once the bike starts misbehaving, like it did a few weeks ago.

So looking at your first photo I can see the long arm for the Givi rack, then the pannier bracket going over it, which is promising.

Little piece of advice from experience, when you feel it's the right time to get back on the bike, cover your wound the best you can before putting your gloves on.
Reason being, your gloves can reinfect it quite easily.
Been there, done that. 

Had trouble recently with my bike cutting out randomly and it was a starter relay that i replaced about 18 months ago and even though it was in a secure weather free position next to the battery it just broke apart, and was obviously just a cheap copy.
Think I paid about £55 for the latest one and it's sorted things out.
But symptoms of that were total power failure, so no lights or anything, not just engine cutting out.

Does the bike start okay, or is it troublesome?


I would also get some electrical contact cleaner spray (DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT THIS) and give the ignition barrel a good soak inside, whilst moving the key up and down and turning it to loosen any possible gunge or dirt that might be in there.

Ha! Yeah nice one,
Bit of confusion here guess that’s my fault for a bad explanation of my woes.
Getting it off the side stand is not the issue it’s getting it on.
It seems straight enough and it pivots up and down smoothly but it seems very difficult compared to my mates fazer same model.
The bike is not lowered which would be the most obvious thing after eliminating it being bent.
The Fazer 1000 stand  looks identical but could be a tad bigger which led me to conclude it could be the wrong stand replaced at some point.
It will pop up onto the stand if someone stands at the back and yanks hard enough. (Fnar fnar)

Why don't you confuse things a bit more by saying side stand instead 

Thanks Darrsi
I’ll do the  rad flush thing the coolant that came out was a bit minging.

Empty what's in the system, PUT COOLANT BOLT BACK IN LOWER DOWN, empty the whole bottle of Radflush in, then fill up to the top with water. Then it's up to you, you can either go for a 5 or 10 mile ride in this cooler weather, or you can simply put the bike on the centre stand and let the bike tick over for 10 to 15 minutes.
Letting it tick over might even get the fan to eventually turn on.


Once you're done, flush everything out with a hose, then slowly fill the system up with the proper coolant mix trying to avoid glugging it in creating trapped air.
What i normally do is then let the bike tick over, even VERY GENTLY using a bit of throttle, with the thermostat cap off to let any air bubbles escape which will rise out to the top as the coolant cycles around the engine.
Then switch off, fill coolant right to the top, cap back on, and your system will be good for quite a while.


Just a note for anyone else reading this, this much cooler weather is ideal for doing the Radflush treatment because you don't want the bike overheating when there's mainly just water in the system, because the engine will boil plain water just like a kettle if it's already hot outside.

I think any info about an fz6 centerstand may be confusing for the OP who is needing help with his FZs 600


Perhaps we should just keep any experiance on the subject to the fazer FZs 600.


Odd he has not come back here, hope he isn't lying under the bike calling for help after it fell on him when he followed fz6 procdures for his fzs

 

Overflow bottle / expansion tank - same thing

Quote from: darrsi on 27 January 2023, 08:31:05 pm

Quote from: Grahamm on 27 January 2023, 07:24:13 pm

That rather depends on whether your legs are long enough to be able to flat-foot the bike on both sides...!

If you can't then you have a bike that isn't suitable for you!

Then I've been riding a bike that's "not suitable for me" for the past 16 years and, indeed, I did both my Basic and Advanced Tests on bikes that were "not suitable for me".

Quote

I would never take the bike off the centre stand without sitting on it.

I have never taken a bike off the centre stand whilst sitting on it.

Quote

Plus standing on the left side means you can't even grab the front brake for any proper control either.

The only time that I could see that being an issue is if you were parked with the bike facing downhill, which suggests you made a mistake by parking it that way (and on the centre stand!) in the first place.

Good for you, but as mentioned, you don't have the same bike as us!