Author Topic: Downpipe removal....Snapped things.... (Read 40244 times)

anutz · « **on:** 30 March 2015, 09:58:50 pm »

So, i am aware there are threads and articles on Downpipe removal, i have seen some of them...

Removing the header nuts......

Who has actually managed to do this and what did you use...

I have soaked them in WD40 for the past 5 days, 2 to 3 times a day....no luck apart from the outer 2 nuts....

I have ordered some plusgas as it has some good reviews...

I could just use more force but dread wreaking the thread, or snapping something...but they must come off it i am to properly treat the rust building up on the downpipes

Anutz

Paulfzs · « **Reply #1 on:** 30 March 2015, 10:28:03 pm »

i used a socket on mine and had no problems at all.

had 1 that had been snapped off a little previously i tried to remove and snapped it but drilled out.

just soak in plusgas and heat it up till its glowing then let it cool and undo it.

anutz · « **Reply #2 on:** 30 March 2015, 10:39:00 pm »

I found my extension bars and have 4 bolts now loose, 4 others are stuck fast but hopefully plusgas will do the trick - so far i have just used WD40

Paulfzs · « **Reply #3 on:** 30 March 2015, 10:46:29 pm »

wd40 is useless, plusgas is the way forward, try heat if you have a blowtorch

bigsteve · « **Reply #4 on:** 30 March 2015, 10:50:31 pm »

agree plusgas I sprayed it on every day for two weeks before removing nuts

the tip I was given was nip the nuts up a little before undoing worked for me

Paulfzs · « **Reply #5 on:** 30 March 2015, 10:55:20 pm »

agreed with nipping them up a little first it breaks the seal of rust without jamming it into the thread.

fazersharp · « **Reply #6 on:** 30 March 2015, 11:03:39 pm »

Got myself some Kroil used on guns and gets its name from two words - Kreeping oil I looked into plusgas and this stuff sounded the best and have been applying to the nuts with a blunt ended syringe to get right behind them when the engine is hot for about the last 3 months, not had a go at removing any yet though.

anutz · « **Reply #7 on:** 02 April 2015, 01:20:00 pm »

OK so plusgas arrived and already i have 2 more nuts off

, rest are soaking

A quesiton however, whats the best way to get off WD40 and Plusgas that has ended up on the frame etc...

A good de-greaer?

Paulfzs · « **Reply #8 on:** 02 April 2015, 02:21:00 pm »

fire?

anutz · « **Reply #9 on:** 02 April 2015, 04:44:45 pm »

don't like that idea...and thats what im trying to avvoid....when i start it up now its all smoking!

Anyway i have a bigger problem now - i snapped my last stud!

So its been a bad day to be honest

anutz · « **Reply #10 on:** 02 April 2015, 05:12:22 pm »

So i am getting some pics now, there is probably 1.5cm of stud have left....so hoping i can unscrew it?

The order a new one on ebay

So much for the nice weather!

anutz · « **Reply #11 on:** 02 April 2015, 05:18:22 pm »

fazersharp · « **Reply #12 on:** 02 April 2015, 05:40:23 pm »

This was talked about not so long ago, what you need is a ----- damit I cant remember the name but it has a long shaft before its a nut and I think you drill out the bracket a little to accommodate the nuts shaft.Im sure somone will be along shortly and tell you properly

Edit------- they are called rivet nuts,
Search this forum for "snapped studs" you are not alone

Paulfzs · « **Reply #13 on:** 02 April 2015, 06:01:47 pm »

weld a nut to it and try get it out, if it doesnt come out you may get lucky and snap it flush then just drill it out start at 2mm and go up in .5

can be done with the engine in place.

Fazerider · « **Reply #14 on:** 02 April 2015, 06:49:05 pm »

Rather than buying a replacement exhaust stud, get some M6 stainless threaded rod and cut that to length. I also prefer stainless dome nuts to the horrible rust-prone nuts Yamaha supply. If you use stainless for both the stud and the nuts, just make sure they're dissimilar grades (e.g. A4 and A2) otherwise they can seize.

anutz · « **Reply #15 on:** 02 April 2015, 06:55:35 pm »

this may be a stupid idea, but here we go...

I have no welding kit...yet...

can i just screw 2 nuts on to the remaining thread and then use the inside one with my wrench to "unscrew" it, a little bit like how there is a lock nut and adjusting nut on the rear wheel axle....or is this a crap idea?

red98 · « **Reply #16 on:** 02 April 2015, 07:03:33 pm »

No, not a crap idea....got to be worth a try, good luck

Paulfzs · « **Reply #17 on:** 02 April 2015, 08:18:47 pm »

yes you can put 2 nuts on it tighten against eachother then try that way.

good luck!
as i said if it snaps flush then its not the end of the world but if you get it out then happy days

sinto · « **Reply #18 on:** 02 April 2015, 10:14:10 pm »

Quote from: anutz on 02 April 2015, 06:55:35 pm

this may be a stupid idea, but here we go...

I have no welding kit...yet...

can i just screw 2 nuts on to the remaining thread and then use the inside one with my wrench to "unscrew" it, a little bit like how there is a lock nut and adjusting nut on the rear wheel axle....or is this a crap idea?

As said before, not a crap or stupid idea, but you do have to make sure both nuts are 'locked' onto each other, otherwise it's a waste of time....

First spray with penetrative oil......and leave a while.
Then put one nut as far down as you can get it, the put on a spring washer, then the other nut on top, screw the 2nd nut as far as you can down the shaft, now keeping that in position with a spanner, use another spanner to tighten the first nut you put on, to tighten onto the washer and other nut, once this is done, gently turn the first nut as you would to loosen it, just use the spanner, as puting a socket on it would mean that both nuts have to align and the washer has to be smaller that the circumference on the nuts, good luck

Buzz · « **Reply #19 on:** 02 April 2015, 10:14:36 pm »

Quote from: fazersharp on 02 April 2015, 05:40:23 pm

This was talked about not so long ago, what you need is a ----- damit I cant remember the name but it has a long shaft before its a nut and I think you drill out the bracket a little to accommodate the nuts shaft.Im sure somone will be along shortly and tell you properly

Edit------- they are called rivet nuts,
Search this forum for "snapped studs" you are not alone

Good memory, Sir. Here's the thread you need http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,12338.msg137697.html#msg137697

fazersharp · « **Reply #20 on:** 02 April 2015, 10:49:07 pm »

Yeh thats the one !!, if the fella does that then he does not run the risk snapping the stud trying to get it out.

I watch these posts because sooner or later im going to need them on my 98 running OEM exhaust on untouched nuts ( all be it 16k dry only miles since 2001 ) like I said I am already soaking me nuts in preparation for the day

Paulfzs · « **Reply #21 on:** 02 April 2015, 11:28:08 pm »

just ignore people saying the engine needs to come out to drill, it doesnt.

sinto · « **Reply #22 on:** 02 April 2015, 11:54:07 pm »

Quote from: fazersharp on 02 April 2015, 10:49:07 pm

Yeh thats the one !!, if the fella does that then he does not run the risk snapping the stud trying to get it out.

I watch these posts because sooner or later im going to need them on my 98 running OEM exhaust on untouched nuts ( all be it 16k dry only miles since 2001 ) like I said I am already soaking me nuts in preparation for the day

What's the one fazersharp ?
Mines is original too, 23,000 miles, '98 seen some rain I'm fairly sure, some with me riding it anyhow, and I don't think it's been touched before I got it! Just need to pray it all goes well when we have to do it ;-) I best start getting the penetrative oil into it now :-)

sinto · « **Reply #23 on:** 02 April 2015, 11:55:44 pm »

Quote from: Paulfzs on 02 April 2015, 11:28:08 pm

just ignore people saying the engine needs to come out to drill, it doesnt.

+1

Paulfzs · « **Reply #24 on:** 03 April 2015, 01:41:59 am »

Quote from: sinto607276 on 02 April 2015, 11:55:44 pm

Quote from: Paulfzs on 02 April 2015, 11:28:08 pm
just ignore people saying the engine needs to come out to drill, it doesnt.

+1