Ive always felt that the FZ6 S2 gearbox is a little cluncky in the low gears, and from neutral to first particularly so. In the past , Ive tried lowering the tickover speed to help ease the change but the bike then became inclined to stall. So, yesterday I adjusted the chain tighter than normally, and not as the book recommends, 48 years as a mechanical tradesman gives me a feel for what is overtight or not. And it has made a difference, the cluncking is significantly less, and changes overall smoother and quieter. Pleased with that. Second up was that I cocked up at the petrol station and absent mindedly filled up with plain unleaded rather than super with no ethanol. On a run out today around Derbyshire, although I was perhaps looking for the opposite, the bike actually felt like it was throttling a little smoother. Nothing really significant, but noticeable. Si Im gonna continue with super for a while longer. Third up was adjustment to the position of the handle bars. On a decent long ride or trackday, my shoulders ache, so I tried moving the rotating the bars in the clamps backwards (closer to me) as ive shortish arms. Uncomfortable, so went the opposite way thinking that would be worse but no, it was actually way more comfortable and so relaxing riding around the Dales
Sounds good fella :thumbup
Personally I just roll the bike forward about a foot whilst simultaneously selecting 1st......reduces the "clunk" by a significant amount.
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
(11-07-19, 10:54 PM)Frosties link Wrote: Sounds good fella :thumbup
Personally I just roll the bike forward about a foot whilst simultaneously selecting 1st......reduces the "clunk" by a significant amount.
Not even that, just a tiny forward movement does the job, just to avoid the stares. :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(13-07-19, 02:09 PM)agricola link Wrote: Ok, must try that then
AND ?????? :rolleyes
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
Got to be careful with a tight chain, the best way to get it right is with the weight of a rider, hard on your own I know, but at least do it so its right with the weight of the bike (not on any stand ). Too tight and it will stop the suspension moving correctly, wear quicker, wear gear box bearings and run hot.
The manual is not great at chain tension info, if you can get it at manual spec on its wheels its fine. A looser chain is better than a tighter one (within reason ). The clonk is a pain, but the rolling trick is the best way forward. Just my penny worth.
I tent to think of the clonk into gear like a horse chomping at the bit
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
