Clutch drag when hot

[Domfzs]

Afternoon. Been lurking on here for years and always found the perfect solution to any problems I've had. Hoping I can get some pointers on something I'm struggling with.


Firstly bike is a 98 fazer 600 34000 miles


Problem started with clutch adjustment at lever being all the way out and bite point being hit and miss. Adjusted at sprocket cover - in until resistance 1/4 out and then re adjusted at lever. No difference to bite point.


New cable fitted. Not Oem one. (Never again)! Helped a little but then got worse.


Bite point is the same when cold and neutral selection fine when cold but as soon as engine heats up clutch drags, gear changes get a bit harder and without revving when stopped it would stall with no chance of getting neutral.


So to try to sort I have replaced;


clutch plates and oem springs (torqued properly)
New oil and filter
Yamaha clutch cable
Degreased and regreased the actuator thing that clutch cable attaches to


Still have the same problem of once engine heats up the bite point moves and the clutch drags when stationary.


Any ideas??? Thanks in advance
Dom

[unfazed]

Try adjusting the clutch this way, but first ensure the Clutch lever pivot hole is not worn before adjusting the clutch.

Now,
Screw in the cable adjuster full at the lever end.
Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover
Loosen the lock nut with a deep spanner ( it will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you)
Turn the lock nut anti clockwise a full turn
Hold you fingers lightly on the clutch lever
Turn the centre screw clockwise with a good fitting flat screwdriver
You will feel the lever moving out
Keep turning the screw until the lever is about 5 to 6mm from the lever housing.
Tighten the locknut.
Replace the rubber bung
Take the final adjustments at the cable adjuster

[Domfzs]

Thanks unfazed. So is that ignore the 'turn screw until resistance 1/4 out' I've read elsewhere? And just wind it in until there's 5-6mm play at lever? Cheers.

[unfazed]

Yes, the resistance setup method can give false readings.

Out of curiosity what oil are you using?

[Domfzs]

Ok thanks. I'll adjust holding the lever as you say when I get a chance. Using silkolene 10/40 oil changed when I changed the clutch plates and springs around 100miles ago.

[Domfzs]

Try adjusting the clutch this way, but first ensure the Clutch lever pivot hole is not worn before adjusting the clutch.

Now,
Screw in the cable adjuster full at the lever end.
Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover
Loosen the lock nut with a deep spanner ( it will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you)
Turn the lock nut anti clockwise a full turn
Hold you fingers lightly on the clutch lever
Turn the centre screw clockwise with a good fitting flat screwdriver
You will feel the lever moving out
Keep turning the screw until the lever is about 5 to 6mm from the lever housing.
Tighten the locknut.
Replace the rubber bung
Take the final adjustments at the cable adjuster

Adjusted this way and on short test ride clutch is loads better. Must have a little too far in on sprocket end as had a bit of clutch slip. Re adjusted and seems good now. Will take for a long blast and see how it behaves when proper hot soon as I can. Thanks unfazed. Probably didn't need new plates and springs then. Ahh well.

[unfazed]

Good to hear, if the problem returns now it is most likely a warped steel plate. The warping of the plate would get worse when hot, thus causing more drag.

[Domfzs]

20 minute test ride done and all seems good. Still a little hard to get neutral from first at a standstill. Have to go to second then down to neutral. That normal for the fazer? I try to knock it up while rolling to a stop most of the time. When I plan ahead enough that is. Thanks again for your help. Didn't notice any warping on plates when I hanged the friction plates so hopefully was just a case of blindly following the Haynes Manual and getting no where.

[Dudeofrude]

20 minute test ride done and all seems good. Still a little hard to get neutral from first at a standstill. Have to go to second then down to neutral. That normal for the fazer? I try to knock it up while rolling to a stop most of the time. When I plan ahead enough that is. Thanks again for your help. Didn't notice any warping on plates when I hanged the friction plates so hopefully was just a case of blindly following the Haynes Manual and getting no where.

I used to get the exact same problem getting into neutral on my 96 Yamaha thundercat (which is where the engine in the Fazer comes from) so could just be a old Yamaha gear box thing. I just got used to it in the end