I was planning to re-paint the rear subframe on the Fazer that I bought in August, due to a bit of rust around the footrest hangers.
Because the chain was right on the wear limit I thought I'd fit a new chain and sprockets at the same time, and I've just found out that SOME F*CKER HAS WELDED THE FRONT SPROCKET NUT ON. :eek
The sprocket's lose on the shaft and the nut has a bloody great lump of weld all over the end of it.
Either way, looks like the engine's going to have to come out a year earlier than I'd planned. What the hell is wrong with some people?
02-12-16, 08:34 PM (This post was last modified: 11-12-16, 03:09 PM by Fazerider.)
Shouldn't be a major issue, can't think why you'd want to take the engine out, just take an angle grinder to the weld, change the sprocket and weld new nut on.
It was the solution I resorted to before Yamaha recognised there was a problem and came up with a deeper nut. I changed the C&S once more after the first welded-on nut.
Have a meeting with a room full of spot welders, and i think you'll find you have no issues whatsoever.
Just a whole load of over confident front sprocket people.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
It's not so stupid as you think it is.
I heard a lot of stories with that idiot nut unscrewing while driving and the rear wheel stopped. Imagine this situation on a highway and the road isn't straight.
99% a crash is next.
(02-12-16, 08:34 PM)Fazerider link Wrote: Shouldn't be a major issue, can't think why you'd want to take the engine out, just take an angle grinder to the weld, change the sprocket and weld new nut on.
It was the solution I resorted to before Yamaha recognised there was a problem and came up with a deeper nut. I changed the C&S twice more after the first welded-on nut.
Just a thought, would welding the sprocket and retaining nut onto the driven shaft from the gear box cause the welded parts to lose its tempering and soften the steel?
There is a problem when welding on cars, so assume it is the same with motorcycles, with the alternator/generator, the voltage from electric welding can fry them, I believe the alternator should be removed from a car before welding , don't know if the same rule applies to the on-board computer, might be wise to ask the question of someone who really knows before going ahead, cos, you just might make your situation worse.
As mentioned in here earlier their has been incidents of the front sprocket coming right off the shaft causing the drive chain and back wheel to lock up, not good.
The original sprocket retaining nut was 9mm thick and Yamaha recognised this was an issue and produced a replacement nut being 12mm thick, this is supposed to cure the problem, well that's OK if the nut has come undone and has been noticed straight away but if the bike has done sufficient miles with the sprocket and nut chattering away it trashes the threads on the end of the gearbox shaft, then it seems you are left with two options a strip down of the engine and replace the gearbox shaft (Expensive and time consuming) or weld the new sprocket on.
So my guess would be the shaft in your gear box is f----d, hence the welding that's been done. :'(
(04-12-16, 10:46 AM)tommyardin link Wrote: Just a thought, would welding the sprocket and retaining nut onto the driven shaft from the gear box cause the welded parts to lose its tempering and soften the steel?
There is a problem when welding on cars, so assume it is the same with motorcycles, with the alternator/generator, the voltage from electric welding can fry them, I believe the alternator should be removed from a car before welding , don't know if the same rule applies to the on-board computer, might be wise to ask the question of someone who really knows before going ahead, cos, you just might make your situation worse.
I've not heard that before, although that doesn't means it's not true. But the diodes in the alternator ought to be pretty tough, it'd be the ECU that I would say was much more vunerable. I haven't seen anyone remove the alternator when welding any of my cars.
I think anyone who does that is just taking folklore as fact.
Provided the welder return/earth clamp is clipped on as close as possible to the weld area, it isn't going to induce troublesome currents in any wiring far enough away to avoid weld spatter. Even if it did, having electrically robust components like the battery and alternator there would actually help delicate bits like the ECU and instrumentation survive.
Mine certainly didn't suffer any problems, IIRC I stuck the clamp on the sprocket itself.
I knew about the issue, but naively assumed that any Fazer still on the road would have had it fixed by now, i.e. the upgraded nut and if necessary a new shaft.
Anyway I'm in the process of restoring the bike, and had planned to have the engine out next winter anyway. So I'll drop the motor out and repair it properly with a new shaft.
I'm still on the original 9mm nut after 75k miles. If the shaft isn't undersize and nut torqued correctly, under or over tightening both bringing problems the original nut seems to hold ok and there are still a lot of them out there. But plan to swap it for the 12mm one next time the chain is replaced since the new nut only a fiver
(05-12-16, 03:41 PM)Jules-C link Wrote: I'm still on the original 9mm nut after 75k miles. If the shaft isn't undersize and nut torqued correctly, under or over tightening both bringing problems the original nut seems to hold ok and there are still a lot of them out there. But plan to swap it for the 12mm one next time the chain is replaced since the new nut only a fiver
Yep thats because your bike is a 98
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
when i changed my chain and sprockets a couple of months ago i had to use a buzz gun to get it loose their was no way that was loosening off and with the locking washer i really dont see how they could come off i just put it back on with the buzz gun an flattened the lock washer i dont expect it to loosen off with it being torqued to 320 nm that is what the buzz gun claims anyway
never stripped the threads you can tell by the sound of the buzz gun it changes tone once it hits the tightest point had to describe but its solid and with the locking washer i dont see it going any where
Many years ago I took my foxy to a well known tyre/servicing gaff in south London for new boots and chain and sprocks any way I picked the bike up and on the way home there was this ear defending screeching noise and I lost all drive , I shat me self cos I was doing 60 mph on the A12 and thought the gearbox was shagged.
Anyway on taking the side case off at the roadside it turns out it was the sprocket nut came off called the rac and got it home.
I went back to said well known tyre co and they were not helpful at all almost saying I was lying and offered me 10% off my next tyres for the inconvenience of putting my life in danger but at the time I didn't know about the nut issue and had fitted a new tab washer, torqued the nut and got back on the road and it lasted another 3years until I changed for the bigger nut.
I've never been back to said shop and I told them where to poke the 10%, should've sued em or something
That's interesting. I took my bike to a (3 letter) south London tyre place for new chain and sprockets. I took the side cover off 4months later to find what appeared to elbe my original sprocket?! I guess they now have a policy of not touching the front sprocket on a fazer now?!
